Following my recent thread on gauge pods, I was looking for somewhere to mount the innovate MTX-L wbO2 gauge I bought for my V8 coupe.
I decided not to add an extra pod as I dont really like the look of any of them as theyre a bit too racey for me....
So I decided Id stick it in place of where the battery voltage gauge used to sit. Out of the 3 aux gauges, its the least useful in my opinion. If the car has enough juice to start and the battery light isnt on, Im happy enough I have enough volts!!
First off, remove the gauge from the cluster, it is held in with two 7mm nuts on the studs through the mount plate. Wiring for the lighting is soldered on to the terminals so I just snipped them free, and the plug on the rear of the gauge is standard fair.
Now, The innovate gauge itself is secured with studs and nuts in a simillar fashion but the holes need to be in a slightly different location so I drilled a couple of holes ( 3 actually
) to suit.
Feed the wiring through and note the colours:
Red wire: +12v switched feed
Black wire: Ground
White wire: +12v for dimming light output during evening driving
Yellow wire: Programmable analogue output 1
Brown wire: Programmable analogue output 2
Helpfully, the wiring already in place for the old gauge is quit useful here. I cut off the plug the went on the gauge, with a Blue/black wire which is a +12v feed from fuse #12 iirc, and the other brown wire is a ground.
I re used the blue/black wire and spliced it to the red wire in the gauge loom.
The ground is not needed here so I just tidied it out of the way.
The two wires I cut from the batt gauge for the lighting are also useful, well one of them. The grey/red wire is the +12v feed for the gauge back lighting. The innovate gauge is already self lit, but has a feature that dims the output when you turn on the headlights for evening driving, so you dont get too distracted by a dancing light in the dark. So I spliced the grey/red wire into the white wire in the gauge loom. Again, the ground wasnt used to tucked away.
By the way, i used these splices, Deutsch jiffy splices. I used these because I have a free supply at work, and I wanted the wiring to be removable so the gauge can be removed with ease.
Now the two important wires are the remaining ground and analogue signal wires.
The ground should be run straight to the battery negative cable, and on my 034 ecu the corresponding EGO ground from the ecu should be grounded to the same place. I spliced these two together and ran them straight to the boot, where my battery is now.
The yellow wire is the output from the wideband controller which the ecu uses for closed loop fuel trimming. On the 034 ecu this is the black/red wire from the grey connector. Again, spliced together with a jiffy splice for easy removal.
So, tuck the wiring out of harms way, and read the manual. To calibrate the gauge, you need to have the oxygen sensor in free air, not in the exhaust. First you power up the gauge without the sensor connected to initialise the unit, then power downand connect the sensor. When you power up this time, the gauge and sensor will self calibrate, once this is done the gauge will indicate full lean which in this case is 22.4.
Finished!
The only thing to do now is configure the gauge output to work with the ecu. IIc uses a 0-1v input, not 0-5v so this needs doing via the supplied LMProgrammer software. I forgot to take a screen shot of this, will get one next time im hooked up.
The other wire in the loom by the way, analouge out 2 is already configured to simulate standard narrowband sensor output so could be spliced into motronic easily if you do not have standalone.
Hope this helps!
Kieron.
I decided not to add an extra pod as I dont really like the look of any of them as theyre a bit too racey for me....
So I decided Id stick it in place of where the battery voltage gauge used to sit. Out of the 3 aux gauges, its the least useful in my opinion. If the car has enough juice to start and the battery light isnt on, Im happy enough I have enough volts!!
First off, remove the gauge from the cluster, it is held in with two 7mm nuts on the studs through the mount plate. Wiring for the lighting is soldered on to the terminals so I just snipped them free, and the plug on the rear of the gauge is standard fair.
Now, The innovate gauge itself is secured with studs and nuts in a simillar fashion but the holes need to be in a slightly different location so I drilled a couple of holes ( 3 actually
) to suit.Feed the wiring through and note the colours:
Red wire: +12v switched feed
Black wire: Ground
White wire: +12v for dimming light output during evening driving
Yellow wire: Programmable analogue output 1
Brown wire: Programmable analogue output 2
Helpfully, the wiring already in place for the old gauge is quit useful here. I cut off the plug the went on the gauge, with a Blue/black wire which is a +12v feed from fuse #12 iirc, and the other brown wire is a ground.
I re used the blue/black wire and spliced it to the red wire in the gauge loom.
The ground is not needed here so I just tidied it out of the way.
The two wires I cut from the batt gauge for the lighting are also useful, well one of them. The grey/red wire is the +12v feed for the gauge back lighting. The innovate gauge is already self lit, but has a feature that dims the output when you turn on the headlights for evening driving, so you dont get too distracted by a dancing light in the dark. So I spliced the grey/red wire into the white wire in the gauge loom. Again, the ground wasnt used to tucked away.
By the way, i used these splices, Deutsch jiffy splices. I used these because I have a free supply at work, and I wanted the wiring to be removable so the gauge can be removed with ease.
Now the two important wires are the remaining ground and analogue signal wires.
The ground should be run straight to the battery negative cable, and on my 034 ecu the corresponding EGO ground from the ecu should be grounded to the same place. I spliced these two together and ran them straight to the boot, where my battery is now.
The yellow wire is the output from the wideband controller which the ecu uses for closed loop fuel trimming. On the 034 ecu this is the black/red wire from the grey connector. Again, spliced together with a jiffy splice for easy removal.
So, tuck the wiring out of harms way, and read the manual. To calibrate the gauge, you need to have the oxygen sensor in free air, not in the exhaust. First you power up the gauge without the sensor connected to initialise the unit, then power downand connect the sensor. When you power up this time, the gauge and sensor will self calibrate, once this is done the gauge will indicate full lean which in this case is 22.4.
Finished!
The only thing to do now is configure the gauge output to work with the ecu. IIc uses a 0-1v input, not 0-5v so this needs doing via the supplied LMProgrammer software. I forgot to take a screen shot of this, will get one next time im hooked up.
The other wire in the loom by the way, analouge out 2 is already configured to simulate standard narrowband sensor output so could be spliced into motronic easily if you do not have standalone.
Hope this helps!
Kieron.
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