charging battery on car

[EspenW]

Plus, even in the worst case scenario - Motronic has a diode that dies if it's overvolted. Replace that and it's like new again.
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Alright, that is good to know.

The CTEKs have a protection circuit that allows it to be connected w/o fear of spikes. One can also plug in a surge protector before the charger if so inclined.

One thing that can cause damage is use of jumper cables. Newer jumper cables often have varistors built in to protect against spikes. I checked out such as set of cables once and found that they were assembled rather sloppy, one of the ends of one of the varistors wasn't even connected to the lead, so these can provide a false sense of security.
I bought two varistors for essentially nothing at the electronics store and attached these to a set of old jumper cables.

[prj]

Considering how any half-decent AC-DC convert is built, I have trouble seeing how the DC part can go anywhere at all.
Except if you are using some really bad design. Hell, a single diode with a safe low breakdown voltage will prevent it (just as it is done in the Motronic ECU).

[mackenzie50]

It's still an interesting thread cos it's one of these things that everyone thinks they know about -but more info the better! I've always been a bit paranoid about 'spikes' and wrecking expensive stuff, so it's nice to know it's probably an unlikely scenario..

[prj]

I know if you havent got anything nice to say dont say it but its not rocket science, everybody's making it out to be though

had a faulty one that managed to kill an ecu on a car at work , for the time it takes to undo 2 10mm nuts (or whatever fixing device you have) surely its the best option , also its better as you eliminate any possible drain on the battery just my thoughts on the matter ... not here to argue ...

Then don't use cheap chinese crap?
If your car's voltage regulator breaks the same will happen.

Plus, even in the worst case scenario - Motronic has a diode that dies if it's overvolted. Replace that and it's like new again.

Also, disconnecting the battery will clear all adaptation tables and fault memory in the ECU.
Never mind possibly leaving you with a non-starter due to the ECU and immo desynchronizing on immo cars.

[HORCH]

I know if you havent got anything nice to say dont say it but its not rocket science, everybody's making it out to be though

[audinut]

had a faulty one that managed to kill an ecu on a car at work , for the time it takes to undo 2 10mm nuts (or whatever fixing device you have) surely its the best option , also its better as you eliminate any possible drain on the battery just my thoughts on the matter ... not here to argue ...

[SteveH]

These chargers are intended to be connected with the battery in situ in the car. Due to their design, they should filter out any spikes in supply voltage. They only trickle charge for the majority of the time they're on. The Ctek is great, if I didn't already have one, I'd of grabbed one of the cheaper items from Lidl and given it a go.

[prj]

its all ok untill you get a spike , IMHO its best to remove the battery its in no way benificial to leave it connected to the cars circuit

Please elaborate on why that would happen.
The battery is charged through the alternator all the time when the engine is on. With a good charger it is no more likely that this occurs than when driving the car.

[audinut]

its all ok untill you get a spike , IMHO its best to remove the battery its in no way benificial to leave it connected to the cars circuit

[benntenn67]

charging battery on car

I have CTEK x2 one connected to my bike & the other I use to trickle charge whichever car I'm not using - Have used them for a few years now without disconnecting the battery terminals, never had any problems

[John B]

I have a CTEK Multi XS 3600 and it has connections that are permanently attached to the battery on one end. The other end has a quick release plug to the charger, so for my ABY, i can just tuckk the plug out of the way unde the rear seat when i want to drive and it takes seconds to hook her up overnight. If you check out the specification of theirs and others, there are several phases that the charger goes through to "condition" the battery. It works very well IMHO.

JB

[macspring]

Vonbeck,

As Steve says, check this out.

http://www.ctekchargers.co.uk/?gclid=CLL0rbvSlq4CFdRA4QodbEepKw

Apart from being very good chargers, they have a handy attachment that is put on both terminals of the battery with a connection socket at the other end of it that can plug straight onto the output socket of the leads of their battery charger, thereby allowing you to connect the charger to the car’s battery with one easy “plug in” action.

Chargers might appear be a bit dearer than others, but they always come out very well in various reviews of battery chargers.

No connection to C-tek obviously.

HTH.

[epic]

Easiest way to charge the car if it's in the garage is to have a lead that plugs into the cigarette socket.

[Fat Audi 80]

My trickle charger is permanently hooked up to my car over the winter months with the terminals still connected. That is how these trickle chargers are designed to work.

IMHO the Ctek one is a little better as you can buy a short adaptor loom that means you can plug play without removing the back seat base every time....

Cheers,

Steve

[Gompa]

it would blow the fuse before it would spike the car. Only time ive ever known stuff like that happen is from very large battery chargers or 3phase spot welders being used without the battery being disconnected. ive charged the one on my avant loads of times with a smaller unit and have it on a trickle charge now its laid up getting some work done and never had anything blow etc.