Does anyone know if there is a filter in the tank of my S6? If so does anyone have a pic of it?
URS6 Fuel Tank Filter?
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Your fuel filter is in the engine bay...

He´re more information about the fuelfilter, you can see that the fuelpump have a holder and that contain mesh filter I believe...
1995 Audi S6 - AAN (~350hp)
2008 BMW 530xd (235hp)
2008 Hyundai i30 - 1.6 CRDI (89hp)
2011 KTM 990 SMR - custom tuned (120whp)Comment
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No, I have never heard anything like that. How about your fuel filter in the engine bay, have you changed it?
Audi UrS4 Avant 2.5 20vt - twincharged - Project
Audi 80q B4 Sedan 2.2 20vt - Daily user
BMW 320d Touring e91 M-Sport - Daily user
BMW 740iA e38 - ProjectComment
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maybe a fawlty POS ? have you mesured it up?
1995 Audi S6 - AAN (~350hp)
2008 BMW 530xd (235hp)
2008 Hyundai i30 - 1.6 CRDI (89hp)
2011 KTM 990 SMR - custom tuned (120whp)Comment
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I've changed EVERYTHING electrical in the engine bay mate
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failed to read what you wrote, but if the car runs fine when you disconnect the CPS then it should be the one who is faulty? right?1995 Audi S6 - AAN (~350hp)
2008 BMW 530xd (235hp)
2008 Hyundai i30 - 1.6 CRDI (89hp)
2011 KTM 990 SMR - custom tuned (120whp)Comment
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According to others, the Hall sender signal is really only used as a crude signal to get the car started. However the Audi information states that if the signal fails when the engine is running (i.e. unplugging it) the timing is retarded by 11 degrees and the charge pressure and knock control is interupted. I am assuming that they mean boost will be mechanical and that the knock control is disabled. Interestingly if the knock sensors fail, timing is also retarded by this magic 11 degrees.
So its difficult to see how the car performs as it should when the hall sender is unplugged as it would be on mechanical boost and retarded ignition. Unless somehow timing is advanced somehow!
You aren't using an RS2 cam pully by any chance?
Other than that it might be worth having a word with PRJ to see how you could log some parameters to clarify what is going on.Comment
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This came up recently in another thread where I seem to remember that while the CPS is ostensibly only necessary to start the engine, it turned out that it was important to have it working correctly when the engine is running also.
A bit like the poster above said. UrS4boy may be familar with the thread I’m thinking of, or someone else may remember it and post a link.
Given that you’ve replace everything else you may as well replace your CPS ?
I presume you’ve seen the comments where a CPS from the dealer is dear, but if one is able or willing, it is possible to buy the “active part” of the CPS much cheaper and marry it with the old CPS to fix it.
Again somebody may be able to post the appropriate link.
Best wishes.Comment

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