Another "crank sprocket" broken

[urs4guy]

In a move to eliminate your issue as a challenge for my stroker, I'm having a billet 92.8 stroker crank machined. The pulley will be part of the crank thus eliminating the key way issue altogether. Not only does this crank eliminate the pulley pop, it takes pounds off the rotating mass.

Hap, wit dakine losses not from Evahboost, Maguire

[UrS4boy]

2084 is the 7A / 3B locking tool

Okay. Thanks.

Is it also the 10VT Urq locking tool? (Just trying to establish the date of the 150+180 TSB which should be before the rumoured 10/93 200+180 TSB)

[martinjs]

Duh, i should read the next page before i post.

[martinjs]

the fact that it references the 2084 locking tool and not the AAN 3256 locking tool, indicates to me that the 150 + 180 is not for the 20VT engines, but a 10V Urq engine (and the like).

2084 tool is for the 20vt 3b engine.

[Error404]

2084 is the 7A / 3B locking tool

[UrS4boy]

Go down to "Harmonic Damper" then read note 4 (quoted below)

I had read that and even though it was posted by the well-respected Phil Payne, I still say it is heresay until somebody posts a scan of the actual technical service bulletin. As for the 150 Nm + 180 deg. suggestion, the fact that it references the 2084 locking tool and not the AAN 3256 locking tool, indicates to me that the 150 + 180 is not for the 20VT engines, but a 10V Urq engine (and the like).

I have asked on two other UrS4/S6 forums for a copy of the TSB that has the 200+180 alternative. Maybe somebody will make me believe.

Just because 100 people re-quote each other on some "fact" does not necessarily mean that the "fact" is indeed correct.

[mcandmar]

you will struggle to get it to 200nm + 180 anyway, that is ****ing tight!

For reference, my highly scientific method is to use a 6ft scaffold pole on a breaker bar and do it up "till it feels about right"

FYI a 3/4" to 1/2" impact adapter will sheer like butter ~300nm Had to buy a 3/4" chrome socket to take the punishment.

Out of interest i used the torque wrench to remove the bolts before and had to wind it upto 650nm-700nm to get them off. Defo in the ****ing tight catagory!

[newsh]

Go down to "Harmonic Damper" then read note 4 (quoted below)

http://www.isham-research.co.uk/quattro/torque.html

The value given here for the harmonic balancer (crankshaft pulley) bolt is the true value at the bolt. Other values apply if Audi's #2079 service tool is used. Alternative techniques have been documented by Audi - the 10/93 Technical Service Bulletin for the ABY and AAN engines specifies 150Nm + 180°. The crankshaft should be locked with Audi's #2084 service tool - this can be bought from any dealership. Under no circumstances should the transmission (gears/brake) be used to hold the crank stationary. Note that an air wrench is unlikely to give satisfactory results no matter what its nominal rating.

[Error404]

200nm + 180 degrees probably equates to ~450nm anyway, its all academic IMO just do it bloody tight. Personally i use 450nm with a big 5 foot long torque wrench but not everybody has one...

As above, how you lock the pulley and torque it up is the key not the actual torque value.

you will struggle to get it to 200nm + 180 anyway, that is ****ing tight!

For reference, my highly scientific method is to use a 6ft scaffold pole on a breaker bar and do it up "till it feels about right"

[Greg_S]

Autodata has it for 200nm +180 deg I believe

[mcandmar]

200nm + 180 degrees probably equates to ~450nm anyway, its all academic IMO just do it bloody tight. Personally i use 450nm with a big 5 foot long torque wrench but not everybody has one...

As above, how you lock the pulley and torque it up is the key not the actual torque value.

[Thuppu]

Sorry more heresay...

The info was from the menber "mulk" who also is a member from the Estonian audi forum. I think he has some experience with quite high hp engines. Also I don't think ~50Nm here and there has no matter in this case, the inportant thing is to torque it right by locking the damper.

[Jamo]

As said believe what you will I've used Paul's method on 2 cambelt changes and it works

[UrS4boy]

Found this info from our audifinns forum: 450Nm or 150Nm + 180 degrees.

Sorry more heresay. Jamo points to Paul N. saying 450Nm or 200 Nm + 180 deg. but Paul doesn't show the tech service bulletin (I don't think he is not telling the truth but showing a copy of the tech service bulletin would be *proof* and not a potential misrepresentation of the facts).

Now Thuppu you say that *somebody* on the Audifinns (cute name BTW) forum says 150 Nm + 180 degrees. That I don't believe. I do believe 350 Nm with the 2079.

Somebody make me believe the 200 Nm + 180 deg and post up a copy of the tech service bulletin.

[Thuppu]

Found this info from our audifinns forum: 450Nm or 150Nm + 180 degrees.

The most inportant is to lock the damper with a proper tool. If you lock the crank/flywheel you almost certainly damage the front pulley.



You can buy a steel/cromo front pulley from here also: http://speed-autoteile.fi/index.php?...&product_id=78