2.5 vs 1.8t coilpacks

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  • dspl1236
    replied
    yes i am concerned on the firing/injection order issue. didnt seem right at all from the get go..... ya no more sequential injection...i know there are a few guys on here running the Dta's but each has their own way of crank triggering. not sure how they have their systems set. if i added a cam sensor at a later date maybe it could enable sequential ....or i can do vems. i did make it so i can put a factory ecu back in plug n play. maybe this ecu would be better off on my v8.


    but lets go back to the basics. set Dta to 1 cylinder. 1 coil. no spark..... i don't think my ignition drivers can drive these or the ls2 coilpacks. i 'think' i need a 5v pull up on the signal from the ecu to trigger on the leading edge of the wave. i was only referencing that image for pull up diagram.

    Last edited by dspl1236; 23 May 2012, 01:01.

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  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Originally posted by dspl1236
    ok going to try this.
    I have you grasped the firing order error problem yet? (You didn't comment on it)

    I have no idea what the coil diagram is from but it is not a VAG coilpack. Good luck.

    "Try"ing is dangerous (expensive) if you don't understand what you are doing.
    You would be WAAAAY better off to buy an hour or Marc S.'s expert time to sort this problem out once and for all. - Even if you don't buy anything from him (e.g. an LS2 coil kit). Pay for his time and get it sorted.
    Last edited by UrS4boy; 22 May 2012, 23:36.

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  • prj
    replied
    The instructions sound horrible.

    Running it like that is not good for the life of the coils, especially at higher revs, and also there is no sequential injection

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  • dspl1236
    replied
    ok going to try this.

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  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Originally posted by dspl1236
    ok here is what i have been instructed.
    Your instructions are wrong. The Audi 20VT firing order is 1-2-4-5-3
    NOT 1-5-2-3-4. That is your first problem.

    My suggested coil control connections are correct for the Audi 20VT.

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  • dspl1236
    replied
    ok here is what i have been instructed.



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    but no spark. There is a test mode that fires coils and injectors together in 1k steps to programed limiter. this is what i have been using.

    i have the 2.2k resistors. do i put these inline on my ecu to coil wires? do i bridge the resistor across pins?

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  • UrS4boy
    replied
    How to wire "said" pull up

    Based on the info in the DTA diagram, specifically the note that the coil designations in the stand alone are NOT firing order.

    Based on the Audi 5 cylinder firing order of 1-2-4-5-3 and the ECU Coils 1 through 5,I believe the wiring would go as follows:

    Cylinder 1
    Pin 1 = 12v Power
    Pin 2 = Harness Ground
    Pin 3 = "Coil 1" in the ECU stand alone harness
    Pin 4 = Engine (cam cover) ground.

    Cylinder 2
    Pin 1 = 12v Power
    Pin 2 = Harness Ground
    Pin 3 = "Coil 2" in the ECU stand alone harness
    Pin 4 = Engine (cam cover) ground.

    Cylinder 3
    Pin 1 = 12v Power
    Pin 2 = Harness Ground
    Pin 3 = "Coil 5" in the ECU stand alone harness
    Pin 4 = Engine (cam cover) ground.

    Cylinder 4
    Pin 1 = 12v Power
    Pin 2 = Harness Ground
    Pin 3 = "Coil 3" in the ECU stand alone harness
    Pin 4 = Engine (cam cover) ground.

    Cylinder 5
    Pin 1 = 12v Power
    Pin 2 = Harness Ground
    Pin 3 = "Coil 4" in the ECU stand alone harness
    Pin 4 = Engine (cam cover) ground.

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  • dspl1236
    replied
    how would i wire in said "pull up"?



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  • dspl1236
    replied
    Originally posted by UrS4boy
    If you haven't already, contact Marc S. at EFI Express. He will sort your ignition wiring and coil issues out, and, if necessary supply you with an LS2 coil kit. You might still have basic ignition wiring problems regardless. Contact Marc.
    My DTAFast P8 Pro even says that it does not like the VAG coils. the only mention it has is about the early bolt down coils might need a pull up resistor ....but again i have asked a few folks about how to wire in the pull up.....i get different answers.

    ya marc knows his stuff...but dont want to bother him since i have never purchased anything from him. Maybe ill have him remote in someday at the dyno.

    summitracing is only 15min away

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  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Originally posted by dspl1236
    thanks guys. i am going to pass on the vag coils and look into other coil options at this point
    If you haven't already, contact Marc S. at EFI Express. He will sort your ignition wiring and coil issues out, and, if necessary supply you with an LS2 coil kit. You might still have basic ignition wiring problems regardless. Contact Marc.

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  • dspl1236
    replied
    thanks guys. i am going to pass on the vag coils and look into other coil options at this point

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  • prj
    replied
    Pin 3 is definitely control ground.
    You ground it to start charging the coil, and you release it to make it spark.

    Use 2ms dwell.

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  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Okay. I have *no* idea, nor do I want to have an idea, how your stand alone ECU works (or in this case, doesn't work). All I can tell you is the "proper" wiring for the 4 pin coil packs for the AAN (or ABY or ADU) Motronic ECUs is:

    Pin 1 = 12v Power
    Pin 2 = Harness Ground
    Pin 3 = the specific ECU harness wire that controls *THAT* cylinder
    Pin 4 = Engine (cam cover) ground.

    As I have said before to people who make the jump from 3B to stand-alone with coil-on-plug coil packs, you should do an intermediate step using the Motronic ECU so you know that your coil pack wiring is working first, before you move on to the stand-alone.

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  • dspl1236
    replied
    i had my coils wired in the same fashion per your diagram but no go on any coilpack for months

    The guy i bought my standalone came over saturday and had me swap pins 2 and 3....we get spark....but only on 1.8t coils. I am very confused

    only way to get spark
    pin1 - 12v
    pin2 - ecu
    pin3 - 12v
    pin4 - ground

    also worked...but again only on 1.8t coil
    pin1 - 12v
    pin2 - ecu
    pin3 -
    pin4 - ground

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  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Originally posted by bikerjim
    Having been reading up on conversions for the 1.8t engine it seems that the best way vw ground is to have2 separate ground points, otherwise you can end up with some kind of back loop going on?!
    In the original wiring system, one of the grounds was for the POSs and the other was for the (separate) coils. The POS ground was Pin 2/4 of the POS connectors which went back into the harness (and eventually to the intake manifold). The other ground was for the coils and was attached to the rear of the cam cover. I presumed that the coil packs needed the same two grounds when I developed the first (documented) trial of the 1.8t coil packs on an AAN. (So I agree with you Jim)

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