live or leave it for PCV system?

[popdemonic]

recently,i just purchase the integrated oil separator"Mann Hummel" Provent 200 with
internal filter which you cam drain the oil back to sump.



The problem I'm having the excessive blow by from the breather system.let's say,

I can see 200-300ml of oil inside the X-pipe on my UrS6 every month.the car never

did this before.I have replaced both regulating and 034 billet check valve under the IM.

All the hose has been tighten properly.Except,i couldn't the find the frame deflector

for a clean up.I suppose it escaped to the inside of the rocker cover due to the

positive pressure plus vacuum from the Turbo inlet.

Definitely,I have used "SEARCH" function on the "CATCH CAN" words and found tons

of thread mentioned about the catch tanks solution with a thousand of design.

Finally,I couldn't make up my mind which one i'd go for some has opened port to

Atmosphere but you will be lossing the vacuum to pull the positive pressure from

the crank,some smells fumes inside the cabin.I found someone removes the entired

system(regulating ,check valve) and just plumb the port from rocker cover,block to

the catch tank and drain it back to sump again.this means we entirely delete the

gas fumes controller correct?or someone one just tapped the catch tank between

MAF hose and Rocker cover and retain the original system there

(MAF HOSE<<Catch Tank<<Rocker Cover).

Another question is what's the Cyclone Tank?Is it the same as my Mann+Hummel

Tank?There's the oil separator/Filter inside the tank to leave the oil out of the vapour

and just automated drain it back to the sump via the custom adapter between the

Turbo oil return line.I purchased the adapter from 034's.much appreciate for giving

me more insights.

[UrS4boy]

Your problem is likely your rings are not sealing that well and you are getting a lot of pressure in the crankcase, and hence, oil vapour into the PCV system. Eliminating the PCV system will not help that, probably make it worse. I vote stay OE and add the catch can in as shown here:

[popdemonic]

Thanks Dave,That's what my plan too since it's way simple to tap the catch tank between MAF and Reg. Valve.Another thing i have a room for mounting
the catch can since my car is RHD so there's no Brake Res,MC on the that side.

[Greg_S]

Good luck getting sorted, on searches you may have more luck looking for PCV positive crank case ventilation and breather system, I think there are some threads in guides and top tips on configurations that have been used. I would have thought you Mann Hummel kit will be more than adequate to use as seperator/catch tank so I would buy a new one yet, just put back to stock config and you can always refit it. Also worth trying an OEM valve on crankcase to breather as this has failed on mine previously.

[prj]

034 billet valve for PCV?

GET RID OF IT RIGHT NOW!
We had an engine failure because that valve seized up open on first use!

Fit the standard one or block it off.

[Nik0las]

Best option is catch tank with returning pipe to the sump. Everything els is waste of time and money with eventual damaged over engine or turbo....

[popdemonic]

034 billet valve for PCV?

GET RID OF IT RIGHT NOW!
We had an engine failure because that valve seized up open on first use!

Fit the standard one or block it off.

Really Dmitri?it's the ball type billet valve with internal spring reinforced the ball inside.
I have 4 stock one way valve .the sad news is all of them can be a bit blown by under boost.2 of them are brand new tho.

[prj]

Really Dmitri?it's the ball type billet valve with internal spring reinforced the ball inside.
I have 4 stock one way valve .the sad news is all of them can be a bit blown by under boost.2 of them are brand new tho.

Yes we knocked out big ends because boost blew into the oil and the engine had to be rebuilt.
The car would not make boost, and then started smoking heavily. By the time we figured out what the problem was, it was too late.

And of course because the ball/spring valve was new from 034, we thought "ah, it can't be leaking". Well think again!!
Just make a solid metal piece and plug that hole. Leave only the large hose. That manifold source is not crucial at all.

[popdemonic]

Good luck getting sorted, on searches you may have more luck looking for PCV positive crank case ventilation and breather system, I think there are some threads in guides and top tips on configurations that have been used. I would have thought you Mann Hummel kit will be more than adequate to use as seperator/catch tank so I would buy a new one yet, just put back to stock config and you can always refit it. Also worth trying an OEM valve on crankcase to breather as this has failed on mine previously.

Greg,
The idea is i just simply tap the mann hummel catch tank to let it catch up the gas fumes
After the regulating valve and vent it back to the MAF hose,plumb the hose at the bottom of the catch tank and drain it back to the sump?that's all.

[popdemonic]

Yes we knocked out big ends because boost blew into the oil and the engine had to be rebuilt.
The car would not make boost, and then started smoking heavily. By the time we figured out what the problem was, it was too late.

And of course because the ball/spring valve was new from 034, we thought "ah, it can't be leaking". Well think again!!
Just make a solid metal piece and plug that hole. Leave only the large hose. That manifold source is not crucial at all.

What about the n80 since there's rubber T hose which i have known n80 will control some gas fumes from the gas tank and release it back to under intake manifold.

[prj]

What about the n80 since there's rubber T hose which i have known n80 will control some gas fumes from the gas tank and release it back to under intake manifold.

I don't see how that would affect the EVAP. The check valve is after the EVAP.

I mean make something with the same shape as the OEM valve, but make it solid metal.

[popdemonic]

I don't see how that would affect the EVAP. The check valve is after the EVAP.

I mean make something with the same shape as the OEM valve, but make it solid metal.

I see,i would remove the T rubber hose off and replace it with generic 90degree from under intake manifold outlet and evap black metal pipe.

[Jamo]

No 90 degree at all 8mm hose fits straight onto the evap valve to the manifold, thats what I have done removed the the pcv valve and tee and the n80 directly connected in it's place

[Rusty]

I also have N80 straight to the IM, after JP suggested it. Nice and neat and tidy and allows you to do whatever you decide with the rest of the breather.

[popdemonic]

here's my plan.
1.remove the T hose,Check valve under intake manifold and connect the EVAP directly to under Intake manifold with the hose.
This way the EVAP is still functional with Check valve deleted.
2.I purchased a T3 drain flange kit with the 1/8" NPT barb fitting from 034 which this flange will be tapping between the T3 turbo oil return line flange and engine
block.I will be connecting the drain port under the Mann Hummel Provent 200 to the 1/8" NPT barb fitting on the T3 drain flang kit.
3.connect the Catch can(Provent 200) outlet to the port behind the rocker cover(which run along under the rocket cover to MAF hose)
4.connect the Catch can (Provent 200) inlet from the regulating valve which the gas fumes from under rocker cover ,sump is still able to
be controlled by this regulating valve and gets into the Catch can.

one thing,by doing this since i'm not going to let the outlet vent to the atmosphere and using the vacuum from turbo inlet to vent the positive
pressure from the crank.Do i still need the check valve on the drain port?Does the positive pressure from the crank effect the oil drainage w/o
the check valve?