RS2 Boost Hesitation - What to check?

[LGK6D]

Hi Guys,

I spent some time at the weekend fitting a new aux radiator and a split water hose. While I was at it I cleaned the whole engine bay down with Bilt Hamber Surfex HD which did an awesome job and now looks like new.

As a consequence the engine bay got fairly wet (I know, I know . . .) and now I seem to have what can only be described as boost hesitation. I don't think it's a misfire, it starts fine and idles fine, no nasty sounds, it even accelerates fairly happily up to about 3500, but instead of a lovely smooth power delivery it's really hit and miss and down on power.

I took the coil pack cover off tonight and it had a load of water around the plugs which I've now dried out (the O ring has seen better days and has let water in too). Can anyone suggest what I should start checking? It's getting annoying.

Thanks
David

[Greg_S]

Have you got a vagcom to pull the codes? Worth checking the mfts isn't damp too as likely it will have got soaked too.

[LGK6D]

Have you got a vagcom to pull the codes? Worth checking the mfts isn't damp too as likely it will have got soaked too.

Unfortunately not, I'm pretty new to all this.

As above, excuse my ignorance but you'll need to direct me to the MFTS

[Sleeper_Avant]

Multi Function Temperature Switch
feeds ECU with temp readings and controls the fans, if im correct (AAN does not feed the ECU via MFTS)

just clean all the damp out really matey and gap the spark plugs as per factory to be on the safe sides.

use some WD40 or GT spray or similar to disperse the waster/moisture from wiring plugs and spark plug areas, dont saturate the coils as it will end up in a fire

[UrS4boy]

Unfortunately not, I'm pretty new to all this. As above, excuse my ignorance but you'll need to direct me to the MFTS

You might want to spend some time reading about the various engine bay devices via this "map" (Click on the labels). It was developed for the AANs in the C4 UrS4 and UrS6 but is very applicable to the ABY S2s and the ADU RS2.

http://members.shaw.ca/speedtek/UrS%20Engine%20Bay%20Device%20Map.html

[LGK6D]

That's brilliant thanks there's a lot of technical information on this forum which is great, but also a lot of acronyms which take a bit of getting used to.

I'll check through the various sockets for evidence of water ingress and see what happens. I'll check the MFTS first which has been suggested. Anywhere else which would cause this sort of problem?

Many thanks
David

[LGK6D]

A quick lunchtime update, I've pulled the boot and socket on the MFTS, all is dry in there and it doesn't look like it got wet.

Thinking about it although I dried the plug area throughly, but I didn't attempt to push anything up the coil pack socks. Should I have another check in there in case they are wet up the inside?

[pixsaudisex2]

To dry out the coil packs leave a gap on the lid a let it get up to temprature they will dry out

[LGK6D]

To dry out the coil packs leave a gap on the lid a let it get up to temprature they will dry out

When you say a gap is it okay to run the engine with the cover loose or just undone a little?

[Greg_S]

Yeah, as it is spring loaded on the cover and is only while you bring engine upto temp, and can be tightened after its dried out. From what you have said seems most likely the ignition has got damp. Also check the bulkhead connectors behind tps and the ignition drivers above them too

[LGK6D]

I'm pleased to report normal service has been resumed in the engine room

I took the coil cover back off and found some moisture in the socks where it connects to the top of the spark plug. It wasn't much at all, but it shows how sensitive it is.

Just wanted to say thanks for all of the input, I'm learning loads from you guys.