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Whilst stripping/rebuilding this engine I noticed that a part of the bracket for the idler wheel is missing. This might sound rhetorical, but should I be worried and replace it?
It's a hex nut shaped casting that has sheared off. The belt tension is adjusted using this.
I can't understand why it would be broken though as it should never need a lot of torque applied to it.
There's a fair bit of corrision in that pic, probably corroded and someone tried to move the tensioner without undoing the holding bolts 1st and whoooooops!
If you look at the bracket, of the three bolts holding it on, two are slotted. so you loosen the three bolts and when you turn the hex (broken) the whole bracket will pivot around the bottom of the three bolts thus tightening or loosening the belt!
Black B3 1990 CQ 2.3E converted to ABY & 6spd. (301bhp) - Now Sold 03 Dolphin B6 S4 Avant LPG - New Daily Wagon
01 Silver D2 A8 3.7 quattro sport - SOLD
I know you have it figured now but here is a photo (from Fred M. on my home forum) that clearly shows how it is supposed to work. Prj's suggestion of welding a nut on it might work - *IF* you can find an appropriate aluminium alloy nut.
RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant
Drill a hole through it, put a bolt through and two nuts locked together on the bolt.
If there is no space behind it for a bolt head countersink the hole from the back and
use a countersink cap head.
Alternatively drill and tap a hole through it then you don't need a bolt head on the back side at all.
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