Running in dilema

[20Vcqdriver]

OK, what do people do on here regards running in a new block and ensuring a good piston bed in and ring seal.
Debating whether to have the engine refurbed, ported head etc but run it in on the K24 until run in, as I know the map is accurate and will not wash the bores or have it running lean when using it on boost to seal the rings etc. Or does someone have a chip set that's pretty close for a 3B GT3071 on 440cc Bosch injectors

[Ian Simmonds]

There is various schools of thought, but we went for the, don't wring it's neck approach. So kept it sensible for te first 1000 miles, did a lot of mixed driving so it didn't settle. Then started stretching its legs for next 1000... All is well at the moment, but I suppose only time (a very long time) will tell. About to do its 5th oil change and it's just over 2k old...

[20Vcqdriver]

Thats the othwer point, make and brand of 'bedding in' oil to use for the first 200 miles, then what to use after that and what mileage can I start using my Pro-s synthrtic oil again.
Was told not to be too gentle as rings need to seal in first 500miles or less and need boost pressure to do that properly, any thouights on this theory?

[Audi_CQ]

This has been discussed before if you search for it. This is the other school: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[Sleeper_Avant]

my rule of thumb,
Road Cars: dont keep revs "low" drive the car as normal, what we are trying to do is not stress the engine, i.e torque

mineral oil (20/50), under 4000rpm no boost for 200 miles

whatever OE reccomended oil and filter for next 500 miles, 4000rpm low boost 7psi max

OE oil and filter again, same conditions 500 miles

rev up to limmiter if you desire, low boost 500 miles

now for your desired oil (10W 60 in my case) set car up as it will be used, have fun!

Motorsport and track/1/4 mile cars

Engine dyno run in period as per the engine builder


I have only had 4 engines fail on or just after running in period that did not produce power as they should

subaru EJ20 x2, idiots abusing them from the turn key
ST170 260bhp track car, customer did not want HP oil pump, died on dyno at 8600rpm
YB Cosworth T4, actuator pipe split giving 40+psi, bye bye no.3 piston!

10+ years with this rule of thumb cant be wrong but everyone has different ways

[20Vcqdriver]

This has been discussed before if you search for it. This is the other school: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Thanks for this, Did a long search but this never came up

[20Vcqdriver]

my rule of thumb,
Road Cars: dont keep revs "low" drive the car as normal, what we are trying to do is not stress the engine, i.e torque

mineral oil (20/50), under 4000rpm no boost for 200 miles

whatever OE reccomended oil and filter for next 500 miles, 4000rpm low boost 7psi max

OE oil and filter again, same conditions 500 miles

rev up to limmiter if you desire, low boost 500 miles

now for your desired oil (10W 60 in my case) set car up as it will be used, have fun!

Motorsport and track/1/4 mile cars

Engine dyno run in period as per the engine builder


I have only had 4 engines fail on or just after running in period that did not produce power as they should

subaru EJ20 x2, idiots abusing them from the turn key
ST170 260bhp track car, customer did not want HP oil pump, died on dyno at 8600rpm
YB Cosworth T4, actuator pipe split giving 40+psi, bye bye no.3 piston!

10+ years with this rule of thumb cant be wrong but everyone has different ways

Inclined towards this method with perhaps using just mechanical boost, but would you fit all the new parts not knowing if the map is suitable or run the block in on the K24 etc which is known correct map so eliminateing lean or overly rich mixture during running in???

[Jamo]

This has been discussed before if you search for it. This is the other school: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Not that again

[20Vcqdriver]

Not that again

I can see the theory behind it but putting so much stress on the bearings when using mineral oil would not be good at all, so a compromise is where I'll be going... Engine out in 5 weeks and the fun begins

[MrVain]

Well after building my engine i might have driven a maximum of 100 miles. Then mapped it and got 603whp. Have driven it hard ever since and that 2 years ago. Im running Kendal 20/50 oil and there is no smoke at all.

[Ian Simmonds]

Our engine definitely 'changed' as the mileage increased, it was lightened and balanced by John (JP) and it settled down as the mileage went up.... Having invested a considerable amount of time, money and effort into the car, I'd have been nothing short of a raving lunatic to wind the thing around the limiter on day one... Sleeper's run in approach is very similar to what we did...

[Audi_CQ]

I can see the theory behind it but putting so much stress on the bearings when using mineral oil would not be good at all, so a compromise is where I'll be going... Engine out in 5 weeks and the fun begins

The only parts that needs "running in" is piston rings and cams/lifters. Mineral oil is still oil and old race engines have been run on it for years so bearings will be ok. What destroys bearings is lack of oil pressure and not type of oil.

[Sleeper_Avant]

provided the engine and sensors were fine before then it should be fine to run the engine in on any injectors provided the map isnt rich as hell

if the engine melted a piston or detonated then this needs identified and rectified before you start the new engine

dont leave a newly built engine ticking over for prolonged period either, especially if new rotating valvetrain has been fitted

theory behind the mineral oil if to help the rings carbon up i belive, worked for me so never questioned it



All of the above is IMO ofcourse, im not saying its gospel, just how I have done so

[Sleeper_Avant]

and the mineral oil is only for the first 200-500 miles!

you can buy propper running in oil, but 20/50 is like 1/5 of the price lol