RS2 No boost after 30seconds of startup

[Faheemo]

I been attending to rs2zuidafrica's car.
The car is in a very stock condition.
Car still has the cats on and computer box has never been opened.
The car needed to be set an entire tooth to the left to drop the hallsender fault.
I started off with checking wgfv and all the other regular issues.
I'm going to explore the brake pressure sensor mentioned and then the MFTS.
The Brake warning signal comes on but after a long drive it goes off.
My personal experience with my s2 , i know the brake warning has no effect on performance. (but this is a rs2)
Last i will atempt the Map sensor , i just havent heard of a map sensor go south before.
I prob have my original map sensor (s2) somewher , but rs2 has a 3 bar sensor ?
Does the rs2 have a fuel pressure sensor ?

[RS2ZuidAfrika]

Thanks for all the feedback guys. You have been a tremendous help and I am attending to all the possibilities step by step.
Please keep them coming

[twoqu]

Might be worth eliminating this as a potential cause:

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=592845&postcount=47

[UrS4boy]

At a loss to explain no boost, but if boost is dropped to the mechanical and there is a Warning symbol perhaps it is a faulty MFTS. The symbol might be the overheat warning. Don't forget on the S2/RS2 there is this function!

Agree about the interaction between the MFTS and the S2/RS2 ECU and that potentially resulting in reduced boost. However, the red warning symbol in that situation would be a thermometer in waves of water (see pg. 2/16 of this: http://www.leesehold.dsl.pipex.com/200/pdf/ffp2.pdf) not the red ((!)) brake system warning symbol that the original poster mentions.

[twoqu]

At a loss to explain no boost, but if boost is dropped to the mechanical and there is a Warning symbol perhaps it is a faulty MFTS. The symbol might be the overheat warning. Don't forget on the S2/RS2 there is this function!

[UrS4boy]

Indeed, you are correct.
Or an alternative explanation can be that there is problems with the wiring.

He isn't "correct". That would assume that his explanation is exactly what happened. You don't know that for sure. That said, his explanation is "plausible", as in "Sure, that is a good possibility as to what might have happened".

My *guess* would be a reasonable safe solution. However, since I can not find any connection between the autocheck and the Motronic ECU that would make it reality, there has to be a coincidence of two or more events to trigger the red ((!)) warning and the boost cut at the exact same time.

[prj]

Explaining that with out seeing the car is hard, but that could easily happend like so: Hard acceleration ->the Autocheck gives a (!) warning, let´s say about low brakefluid level and at the same time some other thing like airleak or wrong MAP reading cut´s the Boost. Has happened to me like this, just poor luck. It doesn´t even leave a code for the low fluid level... Mine was leaking from the clutch slave cylinder...

Indeed, you are correct.
Or an alternative explanation can be that there is problems with the wiring.

[Vauhtiveikko]

Explaining that with out seeing the car is hard, but that could easily happend like so: Hard acceleration ->the Autocheck gives a (!) warning, let´s say about low brakefluid level and at the same time some other thing like airleak or wrong MAP reading cut´s the Boost. Has happened to me like this, just poor luck. It doesn´t even leave a code for the low fluid level... Mine was leaking from the clutch slave cylinder...

[UrS4boy]

No. This will never affect the ECU. Limp mode is due to MAP sensor short to plus. The only thing that does and shows up on autocheck is the MFTS switch.

Please explain why the boost drop and the ((!)) symbol and warning beep show up at the same time.

[prj]

The ((!)) symbol in the autocheck is a 1st Priority Brake and Hydraulic System warning. Under such conditions, the ECU must be reducing the engine power by limiting boost, i.e. not operating the N75 WGFV.

No. This will never affect the ECU. Limp mode is due to MAP sensor short to plus.
The only thing that does and shows up on autocheck is the MFTS switch.

[UrS4boy]

I am quite sure the problem has nothing to do with cam timing. The ((!)) symbol in the autocheck is a 1st Priority Brake and Hydraulic System warning. Under such conditions, the ECU must be reducing the engine power by limiting boost, i.e. not operating the N75 WGFV. The engine bay harness has two brake-related connections: 1) the Brake fluid level sensor on the brake master cylinder, by the reservoir, and 2) the Brake pressure sensor, two separate insulated spade connectors just below (1) on the front edge of the brake servo (shown for example in the AAN harness diagram below). My guess is one of your wires came off (or you really do have a brake servo pressure problem - or the sensor is borked)

Look on pages 2/16, 8/16 and 9/16 of this pdf:

http://www.leesehold.dsl.pipex.com/200/pdf/ffp2.pdf

Look in about the middle of this diagram for the two "24" connectors:

[prj]

It is in limp mode because of MAP sensor error.
Fit MPXH6300A inside ECU as replacement, if the original is gone or if someone has fiddled around.

Looks like it's shorted to 5V, because that's the only way you are going to get that fault code.

[RS2ZuidAfrika]

UPDATE on RS2 boost cut (MAP?)

UPDATE

So we set the timing one tooth to the left and cleared all faults- the previous faults have not recurred but the car is still in limp mode.

Attached Diagnostic report:

[UrS4boy]

G40 Cam Shaft Sensor Info including PNs and DIY

i think so too. But to get to that sensor is going to be a job! trying to look at all possibilities.

If, after you check the cam timing, you find that you still need the G40 replaced, you can follow this procedure (modified as necessary for the RS2):

Nate P's G40 replacement procedure

Which is a link in this G40 post:

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/22580.phtml

Which was accessed by clicking on the G40 label in this diagram (all the other labels are hot links as well):

http://members.shaw.ca/speedtek/UrS%20Engine%20Bay%20Device%20Map.html

Here is what you will see once you get stuck in:

[Avantus]

When I bought my car with incorrect timing it was fine until 3500rpm or so. Then it cutted hard.
And that was in all the gears.

As Prj says... check the timing immediatly with that fault code.