compression test result on AAN.
Collapse
X
-
For a stock(ish)motor up to an including RS2+ levels (380 hp), I personally suggest cleaning the system and replacing with OE parts, perhaps the 034 under intake manifold hose (but not necessarily the check valve).RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avantComment
-
What if you were to make 500+whp on a HTA3586?
How many billet check valves have actually failed? Perhaps some were installed in the wrong direction? I already have it on the way and don't really want to sell it if it is absolutely a piece of ****. I also have the phenolic spacer and silicone pcv parts I'm going to do at same time.
How do you feel about removing the fuel tank vapor stuff (n80?) And just dumping the vent tube for the fuel tank near the back passenger side of the car?
I'm going for the cleanest/easiest maintenance engine bay possible.Comment
-
You need motorgeek. They don't mind removing emissions control stuff and blowing up engines. (Hope you have good aftermarket rods (Pauter, Carrillo, etc.) in that engine.
This thread is off the rails and is no longer about compression ratio. Suggest you start a new thread under Engine or Member's Cars.RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avantComment
-
They arent as detailed or responsive there. I plan on running the rifle drilled DMFORGED rods. Supposed to be good for over 200hp/cylinder. That is for later on.You need motorgeek. They don't mind removing emissions control stuff and blowing up engines. (Hope you have good aftermarket rods (Pauter, Carrillo, etc.) in that engine.
This thread is off the rails and is no longer about compression ratio. Suggest you start a new thread under Engine or Member's Cars.
I will make a new thread about the PCV and Fuel Evaporative emissions modding. I also want to get rid of the evaporative emissions because it will screw with my Lambda targeting with the VEMS.
Thanks!Comment
-
Just blank it off.What if you were to make 500+whp on a HTA3586?
How many billet check valves have actually failed? Perhaps some were installed in the wrong direction? I already have it on the way and don't really want to sell it if it is absolutely a piece of ****. I also have the phenolic spacer and silicone pcv parts I'm going to do at same time.
How do you feel about removing the fuel tank vapor stuff (n80?) And just dumping the vent tube for the fuel tank near the back passenger side of the car?
I'm going for the cleanest/easiest maintenance engine bay possible.
I know of one that failed on a GTX3582 and threw the entire stroker build down the drain. Failed on first run. That's enough for me.
There is actually absolutely no reason for the under-manifold small breather pickup. Just CNC something that is exactly the same shape as the stock valve, but is solid inside. As long as you keep the big hose connected to the intake it will still suck out all the fumes and the car will not smell badly when idling.
Also, IIRC 3B does not even have that small valve...Comment
-
-
The 3B turbo does have the check valve:Just blank it off.
I know of one that failed on a GTX3582 and threw the entire stroker build down the drain. Failed on first run. That's enough for me.
There is actually absolutely no reason for the under-manifold small breather pickup. Just CNC something that is exactly the same shape as the stock valve, but is solid inside. As long as you keep the big hose connected to the intake it will still suck out all the fumes and the car will not smell badly when idling.
Also, IIRC 3B does not even have that small valve...
So you are saying to block off all connections to the manifold, and just use the turbo inlet pipe to pull crankcase ventilation?
Like this? (RED X ARE FOR DELETE/BLOCK)


At that point the only downside I see is maybe extra crankcase pressure with the throttle blade closed.Comment
-
Not all piping. The check valve is actually AFTER the EVAP gets connected, no point deleting that.
It's never fully closed and there is always a little bit of vacuum between the air filter and the Turbo when the engine is under any load.At that point the only downside I see is maybe extra crankcase pressure with the throttle blade closed.
I've done it this way on maybe 30 or 40 cars now including my RS4. No problems whatsoever.Comment
-
Thanks for the heads up! I'm deleting EVAP for cleanliness and I don't want any point of fuel injection except my fuel injectors. (And some methanol/water injectors laterNot all piping. The check valve is actually AFTER the EVAP gets connected, no point deleting that.
It's never fully closed and there is always a little bit of vacuum between the air filter and the Turbo when the engine is under any load.
I've done it this way on maybe 30 or 40 cars now including my RS4. No problems whatsoever.
)
Comment
-
In that case just block off the whole shebang, and you'll do just fine.
If you delete the evap, make sure the tank fumes are vented *somewhere*, or you end up with a rather dangerous mix in the tank.
The downside to venting all to atmosphere, is the car starts smelling. That's why I like keeping the EVAP and breather system circulated to the intake.
UrS4Boy will be along shortly to educate us about the dangers to the ozone field as well though
Comment
Comment