alloy block

[A1quattro]

what ive been told the block had already had the original liners removed ,then a rebore to fit the biggest they could fit. now they are removed its something like 85mm bore [with out liner] and therefore very very close to next cylinder apprx 2mm. buffkins block and the other block in the picture dont have a standard liner, they didnt come with the wlde top hat ,mine just had 1mm ish lip. both the blocks in the pictures are how i would like mine done.. where did you get that first picture ,maybe the owner is in uk ?

[twoqu]

In one of the better quattro books, in the section on the Sport it mentions that the Sport alloy block was cast around the liners. I have no reason to doubt that the other road going block (GR?) would have the same construction.
Whether there was a motorsport casting or not who knows. Clearly motorsport orientated blocks seem to have thet flanged liner rather than just a cylindrical sleeve.
I read trawling the internet that Bufkin's engine went through Lehmann.
Anyway here is the link to those pics:
http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.ph...-lineage/page4

At the end of the day it might be posible. Its going to depend on the size of your wallet, the material and intregity of the block, the availability of the liner and most importantly the competancy of whoever does the machining! Take a look at this link. Looks pretty thin doesen't it!

http://www.vacmotorsports.com/blog/tag/flanged-sleeves

[twoqu]

I wonder if those motorsport blocks were converted to a wet liner doing away with the alloy between the bores. That would be the ultimate solution. Its popular in the USA for Honda's and Chevy alloy V8 (LS1 etc).
Basically you machine out all the alloy where the bores are and replace them with thicker iron liners. The coolant runs directly run the outside of the liner rather than using transfer through the liner into the block material. So there would be less thermal issues in terms of conductivity/expansion etc. It also the strongest method.
So thats the dog danglies.
The problem is we don't have access to that kind of information. Clearly the competition blocks were subject to massive modification. Some reading here:

http://www.darton-international.com/wetsleeves.htm

More detailed reading:

http://www.darton-international.com/midinfo.html

[twoqu]

Grab yourself a cuppa, download the pdf below and see how its done on a Honda. Ok its not a DIY in your shed but if it is viable it would solve your problem assuming that there is enough meat left in the block at the bottom.

http://www.darton-international.com/Honda%20Manual.pdf

[A1quattro]

again many thanks ,will have a read of all the imfo later this eve . more imfo the better. we did think about wet liners , dont think the works blocks were wet, but its all food for thought before the big chop

[stocious]

Here are some pics I saved, not sure where from.
Just thought that for its intended use, durability and ease of replacement would override the desirability factor.

wow ~!!

[kingfishers2]

This all seems a bit long winded to save a bit of weight. personally i would stick with the iron block and put steve on a diet!

[Ian Simmonds]

This all seems a bit long winded to save a bit of weight. personally i would stick with the iron block and put steve on a diet!

lol I'd guess the old JS block could be modified for a 20v head, or wasn't there a 2litre 20v naturally aspirated engine somewhere (south Africa maybe).

[A1quattro]

you can put a 20v head on any of the 5cyl units , but you wouldnt put a iron block in a wrc scooby [ if they exsist] just because the iron block is much stonger , every thing i do on the car to save weight seems to cost me £100 per kg, i-e kevlar roor £700 /saved 7kg, pair of kevlar doors £1200/ saved 12kg, carbon boot £400/saved 5kg, bonnet £600/saved 10kg, even a carbon air intake pipe £150 /almost 1kg. so working on that basis im happy to spend £2000 having the block sorted as ive got the internals in my exsisting engine, arrow rods, l/w knife edge crank, arp bolts ,alloy flywheel. all i need to buy is the new smaller pistons. [plus machine work ect £2000] therefore my plan is the engine will cost me £3,000 ish and save me 25kg. it proberly is a bit of an obsession but any one that goes racing will know weight saving is the cheepest way to go faster , more so when your engine is restricted to 300bhp

[Pembo]

25kg is equal to 4 stone. I always ask for a lightweight navigator. 6st or 8st navigator and much cheaper! Keep it on the black stuff.
I'll keep the wife on the diet. See you soon.

[andy10v]

lol I'd guess the old JS block could be modified for a 20v head, or wasn't there a 2litre 20v naturally aspirated engine somewhere (south Africa maybe).

The PS was a 2.0 10v, over square short stroke avaliable in the uk.

The NM was a 2.0 20v (destroked 7A IIRC) for tax reasons in Italy IIRC.