Squeel on startup.

[andy10v]

Anyone know if you could change this without loosen the big bolt on the cam sprocket? does the pulley damper go clean from that bolt?

No, you need to undo the crank bolt and remove the whole pulley.

[Wrath]

you could get the original one remoulded:

http://www.dalemfg.com/harmonicbalancer_001.htm

Quattrofever:

Yeah but I havent got round to buy the new one yet as I still think I could find a used one for cheap as chips somewhere...

Error404:

I saw that, but ship this to the US and back with repair fee will cost more then 2-3 new from VAG as everything shipped to the US from Sweden cost a fortune...

Anyone know if you could change this without loosen the big bolt on the cam sprocket? does the pulley damper go clean from that bolt?

[Error404]

you could get the original one remoulded:

http://www.dalemfg.com/harmonicbalancer_001.htm

[QuattroFever]

Jeez that was lucky...could've had a big bill on your hands there.

[Wrath]

Have done some fail search and have found the problem !!!

It from the crank pulley vibration damper, the damper on the pulley is all loose and you can turn it around and wobble it around it makes a large klonk klonk sound to it


What is the solution? can I just buy this one?


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-100-A...00306700768%26

Don´t know what version I have today but maybe I need this washer aswell?

034105193

And is just to unscrew the 4 insex bolt and replace the vibration damper without taking of the bolt for the timingbelt and such?

[Wrath]

Thanks for more ideas but the squeel was before Ive changed the alternator... have some rattle sound fron the front sometimes and that I havent found what it could be. Could the steering pump rattle? or could it be the camshaft chain? Don´t know if theres even a service protocol to change that...

Going to check after the holidays if I can reach the tensioner with the cam belt cover off, and hopefully i can take that piece of witout move the cooler and such...

/G

[QuattroFever]

after fitting a new alternator which was supplied with a slightly smaller pulley. I now have a quick 5 second squeal on start up. Guess the belt is struggling to grip with the additional resistance from the smaller pulley. Seemed plenty tight enough for my liking. I'm going try and source a pulley rather than graunch the belt tighter.

May not be your case but worth checking if you have recently exchanged your alternator.

[Error404]

yes i think you should be able to get to the tensioner with the front belt cover removed

[Wrath]

Just for your knowledge the alternator and viscous fan and pulley with bearing for the viscous is brand new... gona check the tension on the cambelt, but as I asked before does anyone know if I can looose/rethighten the cambelt without loose the hoodplate/bumper and such... Can I take of the cambelt cover alone?

And yes it was a gorilla that change and thigthen the belt

[andy10v]

I would probably remove the alternator and power steering pump belts to eliminate them as that is quick and easy.

[Ryss]

Check the viscous fan bearings and alternator charge rate at start-up.

[andy10v]

Gates do a deflection gauge for belt drive bikes to measure tension. Only think would be what you would use to calibrate? A car that appears to be ok?

A Spoke tension meter could possible also measure deflection and>tension.

[driftin jo]

Good question. Don't know why there isn't a spec. Sounds like a science project for somebody.

There is a spec, just tight enough , but not too tight.

[Error404]

got an AAN on the stand, I'll have a look into it over the next couple of weeks

[UrS4boy]

I meant I wonder why there isn't a torque setting for the ABY/AAN/ADU cambelt tensioner / idler pulley, which has a hex head on it to tighten it.

Good question. Don't know why there isn't a spec. Sounds like a science project for somebody.