00561 and low boost

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  • LVrainman
    replied
    I am not sure i understand of what I shoud do...

    I pressure tested from connection Nr1 to connection Nr2.



    P.S. pic is not mine. found it online for ilustrative purposes.

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  • prj
    replied
    This means you have a leak if it loses pressure very fast. And if you can not hear it, it is a very big leak.

    You need to disconnect the ventilation (metal pipe to head) and block it in the MAF-turbo hose, but leave it open to atmosphere from the metal pipe.

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  • LVrainman
    replied
    Well, did a boost leak test today together with a friend of mine for first time on my life. We tested from after MAF to where the rubber pipe is connected to the metal pipe which goes round the head. Air pressure in the system was raising, but was not holding the pressure when we stopped blowing in air with air compressor. The funny thing is that we could not hear any air leaking noises (like pssssss), however the system lost pressure very fast after we stopped blowing in air. After that i tested the car on road, it was boosting as previous ~1-1.1 bar overboost..

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  • LVrainman
    replied
    OK I'll give it a try

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  • prj
    replied
    Do a boost leak test first.

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  • LVrainman
    replied
    I got this same fault code on my avant. However I do not have any boost issues.

    00561 - Mixture Adaptation
    13-00 -- Adaptation Limit (Mul) Not Reached

    It boosts 1-1.1 bar as a standard car should. After reading all the wise words on this thread I came to conclusion that lambda may be doing the trick with adjusting the mixture too rich. I changed the lambda to new bosch around ~2007 when I bought the car and had problems whith exhaust gas check during annual inspections (I think it was too high HC value). Does it mean that my exhaust manifold may be cracked up and sucks in extra air in the exhaust gases which makes the lambda to adjust richer fuel mixture, or is it something else?


    any related comments are welcome!
    Last edited by LVrainman; 15 November 2013, 04:35.

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  • Drummer87
    replied
    Hey Steve I had that code and now it's gone. Hope this helps

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  • sjw185
    replied
    Originally posted by UrS4boy
    There would definitely be issues if you either timed the cam and crank incorrectly or you did it properly and subsequently the belt slipped a few cogs. You might want to review this:

    http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/136943.phtml
    Thanks

    I remember spending a lot of time checking the marks.
    the one on the gearbox is just ready to disappear when it's in the right place.
    Just think she would be running poorly if she jumped a few teeth.
    Last edited by sjw185; 25 February 2013, 21:14.

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  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Consolidated Cam and Crank Pulley and Flywheel Timing Mark photos and diagrams

    Originally posted by sjw185
    Just been thinking I changed the timing belt last year do you think this could have any bearing on what is happening above?
    There would definitely be issues if you either timed the cam and crank incorrectly or you did it properly and subsequently the belt slipped a few cogs. You might want to review this:

    The Audi Enthusiast website. Forums for all Audis including A4, S4, A5, S5, A6, S6, allroad, A8, S8, TT, R8, Q5, Q7, 4000, 100, 200, v6, v8, vintage, local forums

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  • sjw185
    replied
    Originally posted by twoqu
    Going by the factory info there are a few odd readings.
    The specification for field 1 in 000 is 184-215 (85-105C). You have 192 which is higher than the 85.4C recorded.
    The specification for field 3 in 000 is 76-84 (760-840PRM). You have 72 which is 720RPM recorded on the other group.
    The specification for field 10 is 35-37 (8-12 BTDC). You have 034 which is less than 8 BTDC but 10.5 BTDC is recorded in the other group.
    Assuming that the fan was not running, you seem to have a lower idle and ign angle then specified. Not sure how accurate the coolant sensor is but presumably the readings should match each other in the various groups!
    Just been thinking I changed the timing belt last year do you think this could have any bearing on what is happening above?

    where do I get the factory info that applys to the measuring blocks?

    cheers

    steve
    Last edited by sjw185; 25 February 2013, 20:42.

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  • sjw185
    replied
    Originally posted by twoqu
    Try the output test through Vagcom on the ISV. If you can hear it clanging all is well! If it does not clang it might be jammed leading to the reduced idle/ign figures.
    ISV working ok with output test.

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  • twoqu
    replied
    Try the output test through Vagcom on the ISV. If you can hear it clanging all is well! If it does not clang it might be jammed leading to the reduced idle/ign figures.

    Leave a comment:


  • twoqu
    replied
    Going by the factory info there are a few odd readings.
    The specification for field 1 in 000 is 184-215 (85-105C). You have 192 which is higher than the 85.4C recorded.
    The specification for field 3 in 000 is 76-84 (760-840PRM). You have 72 which is 720RPM recorded on the other group.
    The specification for field 10 is 35-37 (8-12 BTDC). You have 034 which is less than 8 BTDC but 10.5 BTDC is recorded in the other group.
    Assuming that the fan was not running, you seem to have a lower idle and ign angle then specified. Not sure how accurate the coolant sensor is but presumably the readings should match each other in the various groups!

    Leave a comment:


  • sjw185
    replied
    Address 01: Engine (8A0 907 551 B)

    21:15:52 Group 000
    192
    019
    072
    126
    087
    135
    048
    127
    107
    034

    21:15:52 Group 002
    720 /min RPM
    1.69 ms Inj. On Time
    14.01 V Voltage
    1020.8 mbar Absolute Pres.

    21:15:52 Group 001
    720 /min RPM
    85.4°C Temperature
    0.992 Lambda Factor
    10.5 °BTDC Ign. Timing

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  • sjw185
    replied
    Originally posted by prj
    MFTS is on/off. You will have no boost at all with that (0.4 bar).

    Can you post Group 000 log on hot idle?

    EDIT:
    Also group 002, preferably when the fault is present.

    Also, you might want to remove the MAC valve and fit a std. N75.
    will go and warm the car up, I have replaced valve with new N75

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