rr 20v tuning

[robbie100hp]

high guys iv got an rr engine code ur quattro i just wanted to know what the best way to go about tuning it with out splitting the lump, i.e rods pistons and flowed head n cams.

im going for
front mounted intercooler (not sure on size but as big a poss)
wagner inlet manifold (so its on the other side of the engine)
hi performance air filter (not sure which one n where to get it from)
3" down pipe and full system (will i need a box on the exhaust or will it be too loud?)

im not sure how much the engine can take? (bhp and torque)
also will i need a bigger better,

turbo
exhaust manifold
fuel pump
injectors
ecu re-map or chip

to reach the maxium of the stock engine

any help or info where to get these parts would be great thanks

[20Vcqdriver]

I'd start with sourcing some homefry/prj chips for the ECU and seeing what you think of the difference before splashing out on expensive upgrades as you might find you are happy with the difference, for a year or two anyway
Oh and a K&N filter element for the RR standard airbox will help too.

[Tonks4x4]

As Dave said really, run it with a set of chips, then before bolting on the power, have the engine out, put rods in and build a strong bottom end, it's future proof then.

Rather than bolt on lots of nice shinny bits creating lots of boost then end up with a rod through the block to start all over again.

[UrS4boy]

As Dave said really, run it with a set of chips, then before bolting on the power, have the engine out, put rods in and build a strong bottom end, it's future proof then. Rather than bolt on lots of nice shinny bits creating lots of boost then end up with a rod through the block to start all over again.

Agree/Disagree. Starting with a set of chips and a MAP sensor upgrade (to 3 Bar) would bring the 217 hp RR to up to around 270-280 hp (depending on the chip manufacturer).

However, leaping from there to a built engine with rods, etc. to me (an opinion) is unnecessary, provided you stay with RS2 K24-7200 turbo, EM, injectors, fuel pressure regulator, etc.

MRC has a nice safe chipset that will give you about 360 hp that will not tax the OE rods (assuming the RR doesn't have 300,000 km on it).

Again, in my *opinion*.

[robbie100hp]

I actually live in the U.K. just for the record, but I have a mk1 golf with a 300bhp audi tt lump in so was hoping for more but with 4 wheel drive I have a friend with a chipped 20v ur and a friend with a chipped s2 but couldn't really feel the difference that much, is this all I can do?

[robbie100hp]

360bhp sounds good to me what would my shopping list be then?
Rs2 turbo, exhaust manifold, injectors, fuel pressure regulator (what pressure is this could I use 1.8 20v audi tt one?)
Custom chip on standard ecu?

Any thing else I need to think about?
Engine is under 100,000 miles and strong

Thanks

[andy10v]

An RR is pretty much the same as a 3B I understand, so you would normally use a 7A fpr to get 4 bar. The ABY/ADU fpr is in goes in the rail, 3b, 7a (and I assume RR) is on hoses on below the intake manifold.

Normally considered minimum

RS2 turbo
RS2 exhaust manifold
RS2 injectors
FPR
Map sensor in ecu
appropriate software
fuel pump

also some people fit
downpipe
rods
intercooler

You could also convert to aby/adu/aan style coil on plug, eliminating the dizzy.

Bang for buck going from 220 to 280bhp, and loads more torque for £150 makes a stage one chip pretty good.

[UrS4boy]

360bhp sounds good to me what would my shopping list be then? Rs2 turbo, exhaust manifold, injectors, fuel pressure regulator (what pressure is this could I use 1.8 20v audi tt one?) Custom chip on standard ecu? Any thing else I need to think about? Engine is under 100,000 miles and strong. Thanks

Basically your list is correct except you are missing the G71 MAP sensor that the ECU needs and it is a chip set (Fuel and Boost chips). MRC or prj or Paul N. if he is around come to mind.

The 3B and I think the RR came with a 2.0 Bar Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. The AANs and ABYs came with a 2.5 Bar sensor and the ADU (RS2) came with a 3.0 Bar MAP sensor. To get to 360 hp, you need 3.0 Bar. More G71 MAP sensor info: http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/20417.phtml

The RR (and 3B) fuel pressure regulator is 3.0 Bar and bolt in. A clip in like the AAN, ABY and ADU (and probably 1.8t) will not work. You would need a 7A 4.0 Bar bolt in FPR:

More FPR info: http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/21108.phtml

[robbie100hp]

Great info thanks for quick reply, got my shopping list now!
I'll post some pic as I go
Anybody got the above for sale near the midlands :-)

[20Vcqdriver]

I actually live in the U.K. just for the record, but I have a mk1 golf with a 300bhp audi tt lump in so was hoping for more but with 4 wheel drive I have a friend with a chipped 20v ur and a friend with a chipped s2 but couldn't really feel the difference that much, is this all I can do?

In which case you'll need to be aiming for around 420bhp as I am to get performance to beat that as by memory the Mk1 weighs about the same as a teaspoon

[URquattroGus]

Ultimately you will want to ditch the Dizzy and switch to five coil operation as per ABY/AAN/ADU. I think there are some questions of whether the Dizzy can safely cope as bhp gets higher (300 plus?)

[rynaqui]

I read somewhere on here that with dizzy, I guess you suffer from Spark Hop at higher power levels, though someone can correct me on that.

[Rusty]

Another issue that you have is that the clutch won't take much more than mild RS2 power, assuming it's in good health at the moment.

If 350bhp isn't enough then you can have a garrett (3071 / 3076) mapped safely but if you're going to bother with a turbo capable of 400-500bhp, you might as well do it properly and get 400-500bhp, as you'll be spending several £000 anyway, so a further £2k for the bottom end and clutch will be worth it (the clutch would cost £600 + fitting anyway for a Sachs SRE item).

Stock head and cams are sufficient for the power levels mentioned, so you don't have to factor in a further £2k for cams and a flow job.

[20Vcqdriver]

Ultimately you will want to ditch the Dizzy and switch to five coil operation as per ABY/AAN/ADU. I think there are some questions of whether the Dizzy can safely cope as bhp gets higher (300 plus?)

Your OK to 450bhp with dizzy if mapped properly and you keep ign system serviced properly. Col hinde was running 550bhp in his 3B without issues though I don't think I'd have taken the risk. My 3b will be pegged at 420bhp max with dizzy

[UrS4boy]

Your OK to 450bhp with dizzy if mapped properly and you keep ign system serviced properly. Col hinde was running 550bhp in his 3B without issues though I don't think I'd have taken the risk. My 3b will be pegged at 420bhp max with dizzy

Okay, you seemed to have changed your brief on hp levels. For those levels, I have to take back my comment about not needing rods. You will need aftermarket rods, as others suggested. My comment re: rods not needed was for the 360 hp range with RS2 bits. Going 3071/76 = rods are definite good idea. Otherwise ....