Help!!! Blasted boost

[twoqu]

Yep its down by the ecu Just follow the pipe from the ecu back!
Fault elimination by substitution can be useful if there is a logical reason. If the fault has occured since swapping the ecu's then its either the ecu or its connection to the pipework.
Its unusual but it is possible that the internal hose from the nipple to the map sensor could have split or be detached.

[Drummer87]

So am I correct in believing the moisture trap in the s2 location is the side kick panel in the footwell???

But your right it's boosting, and cutting. The map sensor is cutting.. Worth trying my standard ecu?? That would rule out the sensor being faulty.

[twoqu]

You can visually check somethings. Look at the moiture trap, if its clear- move on. If you can get a mityvac or something similiar you could check the integrity of the vac pipe to the ecu etc.
You could substitute the dump valve for the original.
It appears to make boost initially so that seems to rule out a lot of components especially if that code switches off the boost control which it appears to be doing.
The chip is another variable!

[Drummer87]

how old is your wastegate?

Would need to check service records.

Spring looked near new. The diaphragm split free. Ok they all leak slightly.

But if it was failing, be overboosting to silly figures. Never seen my car above what is chipped to.

[Rocco]

how old is your wastegate?
most of them are tired and worn and they are not able to hold boost properly

[Drummer87]

You need to concentrate on that 00519 code. According to the documentation it could be:
Vac line from intake to ecu interrupted, blocked, kinked or crimped.
Moisture trap full of liquid.
Blow off valve faulty.
Solenoid valve faulty.
Map sensor faulty.
Turbocharger faulty.
It would be helpful if we knew what the signal too high indicates, a leak or a restriction in the ecu line. That should give you an idea on where to look!

For sure I agree with you

Maybe dmitri could clear this up.

I made the point saying my blow off value is changed to forge after reading some issues with them.

Also the moisture trap has been noted that on the S2 the clips are solid compared to the urs4 which failed.

But if someone can indicate what the high pressure would point towards

[twoqu]

You need to concentrate on that 00519 code. According to the documentation it could be:
Vac line from intake to ecu interrupted, blocked, kinked or crimped.
Moisture trap full of liquid.
Blow off valve faulty.
Solenoid valve faulty.
Map sensor faulty.
Turbocharger faulty.
It would be helpful if we knew what the signal too high indicates, a leak or a restriction in the ecu line. That should give you an idea on where to look!

[as2q]

Awesome cheers Martin got a crate with your name on it. If your cool to come over a night or during the weekend that be spot on.

Good thing we cleared the codes and now see what comes up.

How's work going

No problem will take the vagcom up aswell and see what it says this time, a week in and not did anything yet will give you a shout when I get home.

[Drummer87]

Not so good dude, I have a boost leak test kit at home can get it to you when I get back onshore, looking to be home next week sometime.

Awesome cheers Martin got a crate with your name on it. If your cool to come over a night or during the weekend that be spot on.

Good thing we cleared the codes and now see what comes up.

How's work going

[Drummer87]

Just read it properly. Ignore me about the hoses, thought you were talking about an S4 or S6 for some reason!

It could be a coil or POS if it's misfiring but if its idling ok then it's firing ok so removing the spark plugs won't help at this stage. If there is a misfire then is it worse when the engine is hot (POSs fail under heat) or is it only under load (more likely a coil).

Abit of both

When hot it did tonight twice.

[Drummer87]

Clear faults, re-produce the problem and post up faults again. Pressure test the intake.
The MAP sensor code will cause boost control to be switched off.

You can either diagnose the problem and fix it, or try running around like a headless chicken, swap tons of stuff that has nothing to do with the issue, get nowhere, get pissed off and sell the car.

Sorry for the sarcasm, but the latter happens pretty often on this forum.

Codes were cleared and driven it a few times since.

Martins offer to boost test will be taken up and check the codes again.

Hey we all need a laugh and I was just taking the Pi$$ about what to change after reading some many threads.

[as2q]

Not so good dude, I have a boost leak test kit at home can get it to you when I get back onshore, looking to be home next week sometime.

[merlin's S4]

Just read it properly. Ignore me about the hoses, thought you were talking about an S4 or S6 for some reason!

It could be a coil or POS if it's misfiring but if its idling ok then it's firing ok so removing the spark plugs won't help at this stage. If there is a misfire then is it worse when the engine is hot (POSs fail under heat) or is it only under load (more likely a coil).

[prj]

Clear faults, re-produce the problem and post up faults again. Pressure test the intake.
The MAP sensor code will cause boost control to be switched off.

You can either diagnose the problem and fix it, or try running around like a headless chicken, swap tons of stuff that has nothing to do with the issue, get nowhere, get pissed off and sell the car.

Sorry for the sarcasm, but the latter happens pretty often on this forum.

[Drummer87]

After reading about the moisture trap. I went out took panel off under the glovebox and searched the ages.

Went back in re read and read. Seemed that the write up on the urs4 was in different position. Then found it might be behind the piece on the side in the footwell. Is this correct?? Or has someone deleted my trap. Which I doubt very much.

The intercooler hose you speak about is the one turned into the mark h mod??