coilpack conversion

[Cymru1]

After a few says of web searching, best price I can find (UK) is £20 each.
Based on buying six (i.e 1 spare).

* that have confirmed part number as being 06E 905 115 E via email, even
tho they list tfsi ones separately.

May place order in next few days unless anyone knows better or knows someone who
may know someone who gets a discount there for group purchase

Think that's quite a good deal.

Forgot the link!!

http://www.psituning.com/product.php/21374/genuine_vag_red_coil_pack_set___3_2_v6_a3_8p_tt_mk2_b7_a4_b8_a4_a5_

[UrS4boy]

...Oddly enough, I am just headed out to remove the original 2005 1.8T coil pack prototype harness that I am still running on my RS2'd 93 UrS4 to install a good (I hope) used Apikol harness (much neater than my prototype harness). Bought the used harness and 5 red 115E coils for US$200 plus shipping a few weeks ago.

Okay, I did install that Apikol harness. While the Apikol harness is much more professionally done than my 2005 prototype, my prototype was much more "efficient" in the sense that I ran fewer wires (e.g. I created a "log manifold" for the grounds with one main ground wire and four branches). I might just replace the "regendered" Jetta III taillight 4 pin connectors with the Volvo four pin connectors that allowed the commercial versions of the harness to develop and re-wrap the wires with self-sealing silicone rubber tape to eliminate the last of the "chrome" plastic wire looms and re-install the prototype.

[europeanme]

I am not a guru. I just know a little about the AAN (and by extension, the ABY and ADU) and how it works (or what breaks, etc). *AND* I like to share what I know.

Hints? Try these:

1. Always run the belly pan. Keeps a lot of crud from entering the engine bay.
2. Never run any cover whatsoever over those 1.8T/2.5TFSI coil packs. Heat kills them. Any cover = more heat = earlier coil failure.
3. The coils do come with a rubber seal. The original shorter ones had to be trimmed to sit down far enough. The tight seal kept crud out of the spark plug well. With the taller coils, this might not work as well.
4. Always vacuum around the coil packs before removing them to change plugs (or tighten the plugs 30 Nm (22 lb ft)).
5. After removing the coil packs, I have a modifed shop vac tool with about 8 inches of 1/2" (13 mm) rigid plastic water pipe that I have duct-taped to the vacuum tool. I put that down the spark plug well before I remove the plugs. Spend a couple of minutes per spark plug well.
6. Once the plugs are out. I use the vacuum tool again.
7. Once I have vacuumed again, I use a piece of wooden dowel with a shop rag taped to the end to wipe off the sealing surface where the metal plug crush washer will land.

Oddly enough, I am just headed out to remove the original 2005 1.8T coil pack prototype harness that I am still running on my RS2'd 93 UrS4 to install a good (I hope) used Apikol harness (much neater than my prototype harness). Bought the used harness and 5 red 115E coils for US$200 plus shipping a few weeks ago.

your doing yourself down here Dave.....your are the meister!

it seems like a vacuum is key here....lets see what happens...