Getting Fault Codes 00537 & 00561 - Help please

[smogthemog]

One day I will get time to check all of this but believe me it going to be done soon Having a 3 & a 6 year old don't help matters
4mm Silicone pipe ordered - as when I bought the car it had a boost leak and a piece of that was exactly what the problem was so I will do the whole lot this time. Are there any drawings about of what I need to be changing and where? I have a pretty good idea what and where but I didn't realise there was 5 meters of it!

A question about pressure testing? I work in a Stainless workshop and can easily make bungs & pipe fitment etc in fact I think I made a couple a while back when I first got the car. What do I need to block off to enable me to test the system? I am guessing the inlet into the manifold is where you pressurise it, blocking off any other pipe that is post turbo (blocking off the turbo pipe as well!)
What sort of pressure do you chaps test it too?

Also, I have noticed the revs at idle are a bit erratic, from normal to lumpy to sitting at 2200RPM, intermittently doing this? This sounds a little like an ISV area leak to me as suggested?

Thanks

[AndyP]

5m might be a little OTT, but better than running out half way through the job!

[minim]

I think there are a DIY for your engine also but to could have a look in this write up as the basics are pretty much the same. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1605131

If you want to do it properly you need to block of the ISV among other things and set it to a certain pressure and then see how long it can hold that pressure ( often a lose X psi over X time spesification). In most cases You will however find the leak doing it they way that DIY explains if tho so I think I'd give the "easy way" a try first just to see if you can spot some major leaks. I didn't have any big leaks but I found even a really small one that I couldn't spot with my eyes after without blocking off more than the oil ventilation hose and set a really low pressure (didnt show om my regulator).

[smogthemog]

Thanks lads, you are all awesome!

There are no pictures attached in that last link, They have all gorn but I think I can 'perhaps' follow the gist.

[prj]

What do I need to block off to enable me to test the system?

You must block the MAF->Turbo hose end of the PCV at the intake.

I am guessing the inlet into the manifold is where you pressurise it

No!

blocking off any other pipe that is post turbo (blocking off the turbo pipe as well!)

No...

You pressurize from where the MAF connects to the MAF->Turbo hose. Take it off the MAF and put the bung in there. Then disconnect the breather that comes from the side of the cam cover and plug it on the maf->turbo hose end. No need to do anything else.

Doing it any other way you will miss things.

What sort of pressure do you chaps test it too?

1 bar is good. Just check how long it takes to fall back to zero. If it's over half a minute you're good.

[smogthemog]

Thanks PRJ, I will do that and report back.
Got it the wrong way around.

Thanks

[minim]

1 bar trough the turbo :O I would be a bit more carefull with the seals there since you test it from a side that normally has no pressure. From the outlet of the turbo and on 1bar is not a problem at all ofc.

[prj]

1 bar trough the turbo :O I would be a bit more carefull with the seals there since you test it from a side that normally has no pressure. From the outlet of the turbo and on 1bar is not a problem at all ofc.

Never had a problem, done over 200 cars.
As long as you don't try running stupid high pressure through there absolutely nothing will happen.

[minim]

Never had a problem, done over 200 cars.
As long as you don't try running stupid high pressure through there absolutely nothing will happen.

Ok good to know It's some force at the bung that is used to plug the hose also then. If I didn't calc it all wrong that would be about 200kg of force on plug I used on my RS2.

[minim]

One day I will get time to check all of this but believe me it going to be done soon Having a 3 & a 6 year old don't help matters
4mm Silicone pipe ordered - as when I bought the car it had a boost leak and a piece of that was exactly what the problem was so I will do the whole lot this time. Are there any drawings about of what I need to be changing and where? I have a pretty good idea what and where but I didn't realise there was 5 meters of it!

A question about pressure testing? I work in a Stainless workshop and can easily make bungs & pipe fitment etc in fact I think I made a couple a while back when I first got the car. What do I need to block off to enable me to test the system? I am guessing the inlet into the manifold is where you pressurise it, blocking off any other pipe that is post turbo (blocking off the turbo pipe as well!)
What sort of pressure do you chaps test it too?

Also, I have noticed the revs at idle are a bit erratic, from normal to lumpy to sitting at 2200RPM, intermittently doing this? This sounds a little like an ISV area leak to me as suggested?

Thanks

About the vacum hoses. You can always check partscats.com for the drawing and then you get at least a little guide of how it's built up. This one should give you a overview of the vacum system but double check that I selected the right model for you

http://partscats.com/audi/en/?i=cat_vag_models&brand=au&number=1323&set=1325&ein=1996&f=175&hauptgr=1234567890&hg=1&grf=013370119&bf=13370&hgug=133&ug=33&parent_id=755940

[smogthemog]

Again, Thanks for all of your help, you really are a good keen bunch of people.
I will let you know how I get on as I hope to get time to look and sort this weekend.

[smogthemog]

I blocked off the main 80mm inlet to turbo, from the MAF, Pressurising the system into the inlet from head cover via a series of reducers down to my airline fittings/regulator. I then removed the pipe to the ISV from the intercooler and blocked off the pipe from the ISV to atmosphere.
I pressurised to 16PSI and it slowly creeped back to zero in around 20 seconds. I have replaced most of the smaller pipes, towards the rear of the top of the engine with the Silicone pipe as suggested and thoroughly took apart and cleaned my re-circ valve and wastegate as there seemed to be slight leaks through those. This upped the time to 30 seconds.
I removed the front bumper as well and checked the IC and pipes for leaks too but it is all OK.
I also pressurised the system with the Throttle body pipe off and blocked off too, this didn't really make too much difference, still 30 seconds till zero.
Gotta say, back in 2005-6 or 7 (can't quite remember when?) when I had the MRC re-map done (badly!!! see my thread about it!!) it then lasted 30 seconds till zero.

Today I have been out in the car and I am sure I have a spark issue as it now and again misses a beat, it randomly runs rough at idle and randomly runs to around 2100-2200RPM at idle too. All this is totally random and it still sometimes, under full boost i.e. overtaking etc, sounds like it drops onto 4 cylinders and hesitates/holds back while doing this?????

[smogthemog]

PS, I have ordered a set of Bosch F5DPOR as a precaution.