RS2 not running clean at WOT with boost

[minim]

Good news!
No codes?

Just the "regular". But this isn't causing any problems (yet) so will deal with it after I get the servo pump fixed.

65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error

[twoqu]

Good news!
No codes?

[minim]

Wow! I replaced the spark plugs and now it's running like it should! To bad I didn't try this first... Well some problems got sorted out along the way anyways Thanks for the help guys!

Now as I got in the garage again after testing the engine light came on and when I opened the motor compartment there was oil all over the place The leak problem on my tandem pump got even worse but I'm all happy about finding out of this problem so then a new pump is going in.

[Ross]

Well.....

1.8 coils are prone to fail accordingly with our club members wit 1.8 turbo motors.
Most of them drive around with a spare one in the glovebox....

I went last year trough a complete coils change including new pos and new injectors.

I own my RS2 since 1997 and in all honesty apart from a POS failure (did the pin swap) I never had problems with those parts.

On my experience so far I would say that the original parts are very reliable, yes expensive but they worth the money.

I quite agree with a more convenient change but what stopsped me was the change on the engine bay original layout (no coils cover) which on such rare and iconic car will look bad IMHO.

Stefano

Agreed, I'd be keen to try an alternate coil if it was cheaper, no less reliable and direct replacement but there's nothing I'm aware of. I had HO coilpacks on my old Avant that were certainly cheaper and easier to access but the RS2 is keeping strictly to an OE look engine bay.

Original coil packs lasted 120k miles / 10 years, the 2nd set are 40k miles / 8 years. And cheaper than a set of rear drilled discs

[veneto rs2]

There are better coils available now! Once you have paid out for the wiring you have cheaper and easier to source parts. It also eliminates the failure prone POS. It is recommended that the dwell in the ecu is changed as they tend to die prematurely otherwise. This needs eprom changes.
Most run them without the coil cover due to suspected heat issues.

Well.....

1.8 coils are prone to fail accordingly with our club members wit 1.8 turbo motors.
Most of them drive around with a spare one in the glovebox....

I went last year trough a complete coils change including new pos and new injectors.

I own my RS2 since 1997 and in all honesty apart from a POS failure (did the pin swap) I never had problems with those parts.

On my experience so far I would say that the original parts are very reliable, yes expensive but they worth the money.

I quite agree with a more convenient change but what stopsped me was the change on the engine bay original layout (no coils cover) which on such rare and iconic car will look bad IMHO.

Stefano

[minim]

There are better coils available now! Once you have paid out for the wiring you have cheaper and easier to source parts. It also eliminates the failure prone POS. It is recommended that the dwell in the ecu is changed as they tend to die prematurely otherwise. This needs eprom changes.
Most run them without the coil cover due to suspected heat issues.

Ok. Then I won't rush into the change. Will however go and grab some original bosch spark blugs to change from the non-original that's in place now just to have done that before I search for further problems.

[twoqu]

There are better coils available now! Once you have paid out for the wiring you have cheaper and easier to source parts. It also eliminates the failure prone POS. It is recommended that the dwell in the ecu is changed as they tend to die prematurely otherwise. This needs eprom changes.
Most run them without the coil cover due to suspected heat issues.

[minim]

Just a quick question about the 1.8T (115D) coil "upgrade". It's very cheap, why? Is it a downgrade from the RS2 coils or is it only that the old parts are getting more and more pricey?

[twoqu]

Just to say that the G39 is earthed through the ecu at pin 19 according to one pin out. So if the intermitant problem and that memory error are earth related that may be another line of investigation.

[twoqu]

Yep its just a bit strange that it has appeared now unless of course solving some of the leaks has altered something to the point where it is now struggling to adapt!
It does seem that as Dave as said that the Lambda only influences the ecu around idle and cruise so I guess that its probably not the whole solution to you problem. Usually the fault codes are expressed in terms such as limit not reached or limit exceeded, I guess surpassed is exceeded in this case. I always struggle to remember what they mean.
The only person who may be able to determine what if anything these mean at a glance is probably PRJ! Try posting up athread entitled Motronic logs and see whether that catches his attention!

[minim]

This might or might not help:

As far as I know, when you push the throttle all the way down to WOT, the ECU no longer looks for the O2 Lambda sensor input/feedback. When you just add the throttle gently, the ECU keeps looking for feedback from the O2 sensor. You are getting the best result (apparently) with the O2 sensor in the loop. That said, you might want to check the O2 sensor connections:

G39 O2 sensor info:

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/21012.phtml

You might also want to check the pins in the throttle poteniometer/idle switch connector to make sure that they are seating correctly with the harness connector and vice versa.

G69/ F60 Throttle valve position potentiometer /idle switch information:

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/20405.phtml

Both of those links came by clicking on the appropriate label in
http://members.shaw.ca/speedtek/UrS%...ice%20Map.html

Everything helps! I just noticed from those photos that the lambda connectors are right behind where the vacuum hoses are connected to the intake and I was struggling with clamps in that small area so I wouldn't be surprised If I managed to make a bad contact worse or something like that. Def worth checking out tomorrow.

Thanks again everyone. Awesome help from the users of this forum. Don't know what I would have done without

[UrS4boy]

G69 / F60 Throttle valve position potentiometer /idle switch information

This might or might not help:

As far as I know, when you push the throttle all the way down to WOT, the ECU no longer looks for the O2 Lambda sensor input/feedback. When you just add the throttle gently, the ECU keeps looking for feedback from the O2 sensor. You are getting the best result (apparently) with the O2 sensor in the loop. That said, you might want to check the O2 sensor connections:

G39 O2 sensor info:

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/21012.phtml

You might also want to check the pins in the throttle poteniometer/idle switch connector to make sure that they are seating correctly with the harness connector and vice versa.

G69/ F60 Throttle valve position potentiometer /idle switch information:

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/20405.phtml

Both of those links came by clicking on the appropriate label in

http://members.shaw.ca/speedtek/UrS%20Engine%20Bay%20Device%20Map.html

[minim]

Attaching a simpler plot of the log I took from a pull the other day. The very lean mixture is only to be seen at one place and that's in 3. gear and it looks like it was when I got off the throttle so I guess it's not critical anyways..

[minim]

Might be worth using the measuring blocks to see if the Lambda is functioning with the engine running. Its outlined in the Workshop manuals. You can quickly check to see whats out of wack.

Will do that. I was checking now in the logs I had from earlier and it logged 1.242 at 4520rpm and the lowest was 0.984 at 2520rpm but that was the only one below 1. I don't know why I missed this before but 1.242 (AFR 18,25) is extremely lean. Have to do some more logging to see if I get more of these numbers. The logs where very slow and had few log points so it's very hard to get something accurate out of it.

It also looks as bad earthing could play a part in both the Lambda and the memory issue. If you have not disturbed the lambda and the wiring during you works then perhaps it is something you have disturbed if you see what I mean. Have you checked the tightness of those earths on the inlet post rebuild?

Yes, those are tightened good. Will have a look to see if I have messed up some wires :X

They are some basic multimeter tests that can be performed i.e power and earth and the signal voltage on the Lambda.

Will first check some more with vagcom and If I have doubts regarding the lambda after that I will just install the kit I got from Innovate motorsports since I then can log AFR more accurate for later.

[twoqu]

They are some basic multimeter tests that can be performed i.e power and earth and the signal voltage on the Lambda.