RS2 not running clean at WOT with boost

[twoqu]

Could also try cleaning up the earth connections at the inlet manifold.

Also might be worth fully charging the battery if the cars has been sitting around dismantled. I noticed that it was about 11.5V during the first Vag com testing you did so perhaps its picked that up as a low voltage. Clear the fault and see if it comes back.

[twoqu]

Certaintly a possibility I am afraid. Unlike more modern cars the eproms need to be physically removed and either erased and the OE files burned onto them or perhaps, as most people on here will have done, you consider an upgrade from a reputable source which enhances the vehicle. We do have someone on here with the experience and know how!

[minim]

Well its just there are so many places that can have a leak thats its good practice to check before chasing other faults. Apart from the obvious large hoses there are other not so obvious places like the intercooler O ring, injector inserts and all the other small bore hoses/engine breather components that a decent amount of pressure can reveal in one test. Once you are fairly confident that its leak free you can move onto any codes. In this instance you do have one that needs attention.
I can understand your reservations about the method. You could argue that the maf hose is only subjected to vacuum not pressure but as you are only testing for a short period is does not seem to do any harm.

Ok. Will look into it. The fault code might just be the chip that's causing. I noticed when googling it that many had this issue with chip installed.

Hi

Have you checket spark plugs??

I had a kind of similar problem after changing spark plugs from the original Bosch F5POR to a NGK regular type with copper core. I have now changed to NGK type with Iridium core and now runs OK at WOT.

No I didn't check them other than taking them out to see what's in. It was "Bosch Platin R1 111" that was installed. Not the original ones then

[RS2 driver]

Hi

Have you checket spark plugs??

I had a kind of similar problem after changing spark plugs from the original Bosch F5POR to a NGK regular type with copper core. I have now changed to NGK type with Iridium core and now runs OK at WOT.

[twoqu]

Well its just there are so many places that can have a leak thats its good practice to check before chasing other faults. Apart from the obvious large hoses there are other not so obvious places like the intercooler O ring, injector inserts and all the other small bore hoses/engine breather components that a decent amount of pressure can reveal in one test. Once you are fairly confident that its leak free you can move onto any codes. In this instance you do have one that needs attention.
I can understand your reservations about the method. You could argue that the maf hose is only subjected to vacuum not pressure but as you are only testing for a short period is does not seem to do any harm.

[minim]

Do you mean 1 bar? I take it you have been educated about the pressure test procedure. The Forum method is to blow though the Maf hose and remove the engine breather connection leaving it open and bung the hole in the maf hose.

No I mean 0.1 bar I need to make a better tool to do a safe test at 1 bar. If I'm not wrong the bung will have approx 200 kg of force on it at 1 bar and I doubt that my tool will survive that. At least I don't want to try and have it shooting all over the place. Will see if I can come up with something. Is it indication of a air leak?

To answer your questions from the other thread.

Do you know whether the vehicle has been modified, i.e. chipped? If so do you know the origins?
Has that altitude sensor value changed to something more accurate? I don't think it makes a massive difference unless of course as mentioned previously it is acting as that towing power limiting function. The value was suspiciously close to the published one!

Yes, the previous owner told me that it has been chipped and I do not know the origins. I was planning to remove this but haven't gotten around to find out how to do it. I want it stock

Yes the altitude sensor was now showing 900 something. I thought I logged it but I must have forgotten to do that. I didn't check if it was showing the value that it would show if it was broken, but I don't think it was showing that value.

[twoqu]

One posibility:

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=675143&postcount=13

[twoqu]

Do you mean 1 bar? I take it you have been educated about the pressure test procedure. The Forum method is to blow though the Maf hose and remove the engine breather connection leaving it open and bung the hole in the maf hose.

[minim]

Recently bought a RS2 -94 that had a problem with not running clean when the turbo pressure comes. The 1. gear is pretty good but from 2. and up it has hesitation and gives a weird sound while revving up. I have cleaned the MAF, now recently changed from AAN/ABY cam pulley to ADU cam pulley with the hall window at the right spot and I've checked the intake for leaks (just with 0.1bar pressure or so). I'm open to suggestions to what to do. I got vagcom and I can log more or different if that can reveal something.

I tried to log the problem revving up on 3. and 4. gear but I don't think I got the error logged. The .CSV file is here tho if anyone want to have a look at it.

http://lokalhost.org/audi/vagcom/log_problem.CSV

This is what I get as a readout when I check for errors with vagcom.

Saturday,17,August,2013,09:37:32:08464
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.6 (x64)

Address 01: Engine Labels: None
Control Module Part Number: 8A0 907 551 B
Component and/or Version: 2,2l R5 MOTR.RHV RS2D03
Software Coding: PMC 4
Work Shop Code:
VCID: 264348F7C2C61D287A7
1 Fault Found:

65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error
00-00 - -

Readiness: N/A

The sounds that sound like it's a bumpy road are the engine hesitating and not revving as it should. It was hard to capture it on video but you feel it really good when driving.

Just in case the youtube videos in the forum don't work the links are here. Video 1 link - Video 2 link