Refitting WGFV & Stock Spring

[Erikb]

Can someone explain to me what the MFTS does, what can it cause?

[S2central.net]

Its the same spring... and the factory perch setting is 25mm from the inner top surface of the upper WG cap. Nuff said !


Paul

[AAH!]

Step 1 - pull fault codes - just in case the ECU is seeing a hard fault
Step 2 - Go mental - buy a new WGFV !
Step 3 - check your TPS that you are getting full throttle and correct ohms

Still no joy!

Done all the suggested tests:

1 - Fault/Blink Codes as per http://s2central.net/blinkcodes.html

Only code that came up was 1111

"Engine Control Module Malfunctioning". -

"Poor ground connection to J220 at pins 10, 14, 18 or 24"
"J220 faulty"

"Engine does not crank and/or start"
"No voltage at pin 37 of J220 while cranking"

"Check J220 wiring, B+ and ground connections"

Engine does crank/start (everytime), but have not checked the ground connections (not quite sure how to do this). Also read that sometimes chipped (mapped?) cars can produce this code. Could this be anything to do with the aftermarket Thatcham imobiliser?

Tried unplugging WGFV, MFTS & TPS to see if it would give me any other fault/blink codes and it didn't, is this correct?. Tested with engine running and just ignition. Did get 2111 once with just ignition on, but believe this is normal. But 2111 didn't always come up in this situation. Will try and clear ECU of fault codes and try again, need to work out how to do this though.

Hall sensor and speed sensor where changed at a local (non-specialist - had no choice) garage 6 months ago, when car had starting problem. Garage also reported earth problem on diagnostic unit and said they resolved it. At the same time these sensors where replaced low boost kicked in, thats when the WGFV was removed and bigger WG spring fitted (by different garage) and did a fine job of masking the underlying problem.


2 - New WGFV fitted and apears to be working.
Did ECU output test to confirm as per: http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/troubl...20v.html#outs4


3 - Checked TPS (& CTP) as per: http://s2central.net/ds_F60_G69.html

Test 1 - Pin 1 & 2 = 4.99v - Pin 2 & 3 = 4.89v (Should be 5v ±.05v)

Test 2 - Pin 1 & 2 = 1797 ohms (Should be 1500-2600 ohms) - Pin 2 & 3 = 918 ohms (Should be 750-1300 ohms)

Test 3 - Pin 2 & 3 = 2430 ohms Max with smooth reading to WOT. (Should be 3600 ohms, but read that this figure is artifricially high)

Are these acceptable readings?


Fitted forge DV and Samco's. Have not yet changed MFTS or Lambda, they are in the post as is a pressure test kit.

Will carry on researching all the "low boost" posts. In the meantime any comments on the above or any other suggestions, would be greatfully recieved.

Thanks...Angus

[audiman]

when you say low boost , are you getting the same boost with WGFV plugged in and unplugged???

[audiman]

If this is the case then i would try unplugging the MFTS, thats the big temp sensor in the water manifold, this should allow the ECU to comtrol the boost

[AAH!]

when you say low boost , are you getting the same boost with WGFV plugged in and unplugged???

When I refitted the stock spring I set the tension to 0.5 bar (the lowest I could get) with the WGFV plumbed in but unconected. Reconnecting the WGFV made no difference to the boost pressure.

If this is the case then i would try unplugging the MFTS, thats the big temp sensor in the water manifold, this should allow the ECU to comtrol the boost

Tried unplugging the MFTS still same low boost, now replugged, just in case will fit a new MFTS when it arrives later this week.

Angus

[audiman]

Well it sounds to me like the ECU is holding back the boost. Im not 100% sure, but IIRC the knock sensors will also have an effect on boost pressure, make sure that they are connected/working. Mihnea/Paul N, will be able to tell you what items will limit boost to wastegate pressure.

[Doug_RS2]

"Poor ground connection to J220 at pins 10, 14, 18 or 24"
"J220 faulty"

I think this could relate to a grounding problem of the engine. Make sure the earth strap is securely fitted - I think this is at the starter motor.

"Engine does not crank and/or start"
"No voltage at pin 37 of J220 while cranking"

pin37 of J220 (ECU) is No5 Injector. Is it firing on all 5 cylinders? Maybe the bad grounding of the engine is causing this

"Check J220 wiring, B+ and ground connections"

Looks like it could just be a grounding issue.

[Mihnea]

The 1111 fault code can also be due to some "expert" tuner that has ****ed with your ECU. if you check the codes with VAG-Com, you'll know if it's the ground or if it's the ECU internal ROM error fault code....


HTH,

Mihnea

[4WheelDrifter]

I'm very familiar to the code 1111. I'm sure mine's been expertly tuned!

[AAH!]

the knock sensors will also have an effect on boost pressure, make sure that they are connected/working.

1 - Apart from checking the torque and electrical connections is there a way of testing the knock sensors apart from Blink codes.

if you check the codes with VAG-Com, you'll know if it's the ground or if it's the ECU internal ROM error fault code....

2 - Would clearing the fault codes help?

3 - If there is an ECU internal ROM error fault code, is it fixable?

Any one with VAG-COM in London?

Thanks for the replies, Angus

[AAH!]

Can someone explain to me what the MFTS does

http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/cooling.html#gauge

what can it cause?

http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/20vmfsns.html