Those familiar with this will know that it is the factory crank locking tool for the AAN and other I5 engines including the TDI models with AAT/AEL. It does not fit the ABY without the modifications outlined in the thread below:
Having recently got this back after 18 months after the person who borrowed it somehow managed to break a chunk off their engine block whilst trying to use it, I thought I would take a closer look at it. I have heard of people breaking their blocks before but have assumed it was down to bad practice . Not so sure now!
Firstly due to the fact that the tool is intended to be used with the rear camshaft cover in situ, it has a machined down section to allow it to fit. This reduces the OD of the tube from 28mm to 20mm. The actual bolt is an M10X130, 1.5mm pitch, 8.8 grade. It is slightly different to just a regular bolt as I bought some replacements. The actual thread length appears to be longer plus it has a grove machined on the shank as it is usaully retained in the bore of the tool with a wire retainer to prevent loss.
The actual bore that the bolt goes through is smaller than 16mm, more like 15.8mm. But the biggest issue would appear to be the lack of thread length for the bolt to engage in the block. With the 2mm washer as per the factory bolt, there is only a measly 9mm of thread to engage in the block which has 20mm thread depth.
So perhaps the lack of thread engagement plus the amount of slop in the bore allows the bolt to misalign. Not too difficult to put a longer bolt in but I was wondering whether it was advisable to add another tube inside the existing one to stop the slop. It should be possible to increase the ID to say 16mm which would allow the insertion of a 16mm OD, 10mm ID tube.
Really it would be better to use a length of HT studding as other have done adapting the tool. That would also allow use on ABY engines subject to the spacer issue. It is evident that people have used another hole on the block rather than the correct one. The only issue there is that it moves the pistons away from the position that the tool was designed for. The tool does not hold the engine at TDC so the pistons are presumably all some way down the bore when using the tool.
Anyway just making users who have faith in factory tools aware of the potential issue of block damage. Audi or Matra had some strange ideas. I also recently purchased another tool VAG 3248 just to look at it. I have only seen this listed for early C4 2.4DI diesel use. It is supposed to fit over a lug on the engine just above the sump and has an angled locating point. Perhaps the pics and illustration might make it clearer!
Having recently got this back after 18 months after the person who borrowed it somehow managed to break a chunk off their engine block whilst trying to use it, I thought I would take a closer look at it. I have heard of people breaking their blocks before but have assumed it was down to bad practice . Not so sure now!
Firstly due to the fact that the tool is intended to be used with the rear camshaft cover in situ, it has a machined down section to allow it to fit. This reduces the OD of the tube from 28mm to 20mm. The actual bolt is an M10X130, 1.5mm pitch, 8.8 grade. It is slightly different to just a regular bolt as I bought some replacements. The actual thread length appears to be longer plus it has a grove machined on the shank as it is usaully retained in the bore of the tool with a wire retainer to prevent loss.
The actual bore that the bolt goes through is smaller than 16mm, more like 15.8mm. But the biggest issue would appear to be the lack of thread length for the bolt to engage in the block. With the 2mm washer as per the factory bolt, there is only a measly 9mm of thread to engage in the block which has 20mm thread depth.
So perhaps the lack of thread engagement plus the amount of slop in the bore allows the bolt to misalign. Not too difficult to put a longer bolt in but I was wondering whether it was advisable to add another tube inside the existing one to stop the slop. It should be possible to increase the ID to say 16mm which would allow the insertion of a 16mm OD, 10mm ID tube.
Really it would be better to use a length of HT studding as other have done adapting the tool. That would also allow use on ABY engines subject to the spacer issue. It is evident that people have used another hole on the block rather than the correct one. The only issue there is that it moves the pistons away from the position that the tool was designed for. The tool does not hold the engine at TDC so the pistons are presumably all some way down the bore when using the tool.
Anyway just making users who have faith in factory tools aware of the potential issue of block damage. Audi or Matra had some strange ideas. I also recently purchased another tool VAG 3248 just to look at it. I have only seen this listed for early C4 2.4DI diesel use. It is supposed to fit over a lug on the engine just above the sump and has an angled locating point. Perhaps the pics and illustration might make it clearer!