S2 AYB tuning

[Pervert_for_boost]

Hey all am new to the forum.

Reason for joining is am looking to start a tuning project car, and thought what better base than an S2 turbo (IMO)

As there becoming increasingly more rare (in UK) I've only found 2 currently forsale so far - likely to be the better one has 117k miles (other one 200k) But before I make my decision was hoping some of you could help. I do know the basic tuning necessities but, need to know roundabout what's involved for a reliable drivable 500bhp.

My thoughts were? :-
Steel rods
Forge pistons? (Std ratio??)
RS2 clutch (single mass)
RS2 metal headgasket
RS2 brake conversion
Cams (suggestions needed!)
GTX3071 with appropriate ex mani
High flow inlet??
Large IC
Boost controller?
Standalone ECU?
Is gearbox/diffs good for this power??

Proper live tune mapping - thinking PRJ tuning, maybe MRC? (Suggestions again please)
I do plan to speak to tuners also to see there recommendations, but hope you could give me a footing first and est ballpark figure for all parts I'd need (no labour)

Excuse my ignorance if I'm way off with any of the above, but im after info not p#$s taking 😜

Thanks for reading.

[K Simmonds]

Just a brief answer as I'm on my lunch break, I'm sure some other members will be along with advice soon.

First off with S2's the mileage means virtually nothing after all these years, overall condition and history are both far more important, a lot of the higher mileage cars have had everything replaced on them that wears out, where as a lower mileage example may have a load of stuff that needs attention.

Most of the stuff you list sounds about right for 500 crank HP, however the standard pistons are forged and good for in excess of 600 BHP so no point changing them unless your going for a capacity change.

IMO avoid boost controls, just get it mapped properly by the likes of PRJ, Automark or MRC, there is the option of running a couple of switchable maps if you want a safety mode. Though dated the stock Motronic is very good and PRJ know's it inside out, for the power your after you need to discuss this aspect in detail with your tuner.

The stock cams are excellent, no real need to change them but there are various options, again you need to discuss this with whoever is going to be mapping the car. Also I'd go for head work before cams, there's much more to be gained there, JP on here is your man for that.

ABY gearboxes are up to that sort of power, 3B's not so much, the diff's are the same and very strong but 500 BHP is about the level they start breaking at.

You'll want an uprated Sachs clutch.

Oh, .

[Pervert_for_boost]

That's really helpful, thanks a lot!
Seems I'm underestimating these engines then.. I forgot to mention injectors, whats recommended around 500bhp?
So In simpletons terms, basic running gear: what's required?
Thanks for the welcome also.

[Pervert_for_boost]

Is there an uprated alternative for the diffs aswell?

[Error404]

For a reliable 500

My thoughts were? :-
Steel rods - essential
Forge pistons? (Std ratio??) stock will be fine, skim them to reduce the CR a touch
RS2 clutch (single mass) - I'd go to 3B or 7A SM flywheel & southbend or SRE clutch
RS2 metal headgasket - Standard on all 20vt engines since 1993 / 94.
RS2 brake conversion - yes but there are cheaper / better(?) options i.e. 996 monoblocks
Cams (suggestions needed!) - not necessary
GTX3071 with appropriate ex mani - Wagner
High flow inlet?? not necessary but Wgner / Furans reverse inlet will help with response and IATs
Large IC - yes
Boost controller - not necessary
Standalone ECU? not necessary
Is gearbox/diffs good for this power?? yes

[Pervert_for_boost]

One of the most helpful forums I've been on without any of the bulls#£t! Thanks fellas.

I'm quite decided now, as I said there's two forsale I can find at the moment. Just need to figure which seems the most cared for car as there both a long distance so preferably need to choose one. Then give PRJ a call.
I'd like to do the engine build myself with a mechanic friend as it's then more personal, but with tubby conversion I'll be safest trailering it to a tuner im thinking rather than bend a rod on the way :/

Thanks again to all, I'll post on progress

Ash

[jade]

For a reliable 500

My thoughts were? :-
Steel rods - essential
Forge pistons? (Std ratio??) stock will be fine, skim them to reduce the CR a touch
RS2 clutch (single mass) - I'd go to 3B or 7A SM flywheel & southbend or SRE clutch
RS2 metal headgasket - Standard on all 20vt engines since 1993 / 94.
RS2 brake conversion - yes but there are cheaper / better(?) options i.e. 996 monoblocks
Cams (suggestions needed!) - not necessary
GTX3071 with appropriate ex mani - Wagner
High flow inlet?? not necessary but Wgner / Furans reverse inlet will help with response and IATs
Large IC - yes
Boost controller - not necessary
Standalone ECU? not necessary
Is gearbox/diffs good for this power?? yes

a couple more things to add to the list

3" downpipe

Upgrade breather system

[Pervert_for_boost]

Do the majority choose a 3" system turbo to back box?

[jade]

Do the majority choose a 3" system turbo to back box?

Yes for that power level, no need for bigger

[RustyNut]

Welcome! We'll help you to spend all your pocket money, no problem! Don't forget the fuel pump upgrade and start with a decent suspension set up. KW V1's have proven to be very good and there's also a rear brake upgrade available now. If you can manoeuvre your way around the search section you'll find plenty of write ups to keep you up all night!

[Error404]

This is a well trodden path, have a read of some of the projects on the forum, you will get a flavour for some of the intricacies of these mods, plus get some ideas for further supporting mods that are worth considering.
Reality check - if you are buying a fairly stock car unless it has had a lot of attention you can budget at least £10k in parts alone to get the car into a condition to support that power level reliably, if you are handy with the spanners. If you are paying for labour, well.....I hope you have a lot of savings

[rynaqui]

Reality check - if you are buying a fairly stock car unless it has had a lot of attention you can budget at least £10k to get the car into a condition to support that power level reliably.

This

You may get a fairly good condition car, but check the underneath of the car, leaks, noises, knocking, squeaks, worn items. These all add up to quite a large bill

[audinut]

unless you buy mine of course....

[jsws3]

Or save your penny's and but a 570hp rs2/s2 next year with everything done suspension breakers interior ect ect wheels the lot .

And built buy professional body shop !

[audinut]

whats quattro coachworks selling then?