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'bout time I go pro'd a run or two in this baby now. MOT in the Netherlands on Friday morning next week, then I'll try and drop the Coke Can exhaust silencer back in and wait for dry, quiet roads!, or at least until I come along.
I am happy that you seem to have found your problem but I am also a little bewildered and sad that you missed Item 1 of my "Monthly Reminder" post, last bumped on April 1, 2015 (a month ago)
I took the car for a run over to Hemel today to work and back, and I noticed some similar hesitations and misfires even though I was still running the stock ECU chips. This wasn't expected so when I got home I decided to do some checking, just quick, not got changed still in my smart clothes kinda stuff, if you get what I mean.
I took the inlet tube off that runs next to the rocker cover and checked there wasn't excessive oil traces in it, these were minimal so okay there.
Next I removed the coilpacks and the cover and visually inspected the Coils and wires, all looked good there too.
Now the plug boots, again visually these looked fine, although that probably doesn't mean anything.
While this was all off I decided to have a look at the plugs to see if there was any discolouration, or difference between cylinders. I had only changed these 6 months ago so they all went in new.
It was at this point I found something not quite as expected. The plugs when I came to remove them were slightly more than finger tight, and I know I had torqued them up when I installed them. I elected to leave the plugs in and just torque them up. As with all fault finding, small single changes will help find the issue! I took her out for a run and no misfires, full throttle pulls no issue, still on the stock ECU.
Happy with the status I've put her away and when I get a chance in the next few days I'll drop the other chips back in and see if this has helped.
The boost gauge shows just over the 0 when engine is off, drops into the minus when idling and with the stock ECU shows between 0.9-0.95 at WOT. I'll update when I have run with the other chips to see how much boost and how she runs...
Thanks again for input and I'm still in favour of the TFSI coilpacks, cheaper to replace if one does need replacing and looses the POS's as they are on the TFSI coilpacks.
...Or is it just too much for the ignition coils? I can't see anything obvious but have got a spark tester I was going to have a play with.
Re the coils I had started looking at that option, what I couldn't work out was how to use the 2.0 tfsi coils in the existing head without remanufacturing the head cover. Loom wiring isn't an issue and it'll be nice to lose the POS's, but before I start travelling down that road I want to be clear what I'm letting myself in for.
The trick with the coil tester is to use it to find the weak coil, the one with the weakest spark and target it for replacement.
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As Robin suggested, running the 1.8T or 2.0 TFSI coils under the OE "20V Turbo" coil pack cover for very long will kill them dead, due to heat, sooner than later. You could get away with it for "show and tell"(oops, I meant "Show and Shine" ) events but not for the long term.
The alternative is to run a 7A cover and trim the taller 115E red-top coils to fit. This does require some replumbing for the PVC system, if you are still running one.
Well basically you would lose the original coil cover although again there are alternatives available which are largely cosmetic. If weatherproofing is an issue then its more problematic as the alternative coils don't seem to like being cooked under the OE cover.
We don't have extensive diagnostics. There are things that fail without codes.
Ultimately if the car performs adequately on stock chips then the issues are either related to the increased stresses whether that be boost or ignition issues or indeed the suitability of the SW which we never really got to the bottom of!
Hmm... So no codes last time I looked, gauge is after market and because of the engine being in the back is over a 3m hose, not sure if that impacts the reading. I'll have to set up the gopro and film the gauge so I can analyse it better instead of trying to look while driving.
Re the coils I had started looking at that option, what I couldn't work out was how to use the 2.0 tfsi coils in the existing head without remanufacturing the head cover. Loom wiring isn't an issue and it'll be nice to loose the POS's, but before I start travelling down that road I want to be clear what I'm letting myself in for.
Did read about knock sensors pulling back ignition advance if they spot pinking, was wondering if they fail to same occurs.
Not sure how the guage is calibrated but its either not enough or too much boost pressure!
Stock is @1.1bar above atmospheric and modified would be nearer 1.4 bar. So you need to clarify that issue.
Obviously more pressure causes more stresses on components, be they hoses or other components.
The usual mantra is pull codes and check for boost leaks. There is no way to test the coils other than to life them. If they are original OE then they are at least 20 years old. They are expensive to replace so that has lead to replacement with other more modern coils which eliminate other possibly troublesome ignition components (POS).
This means a loom and 5 new coils at least.
I don't know if anyone is subscribed to this thread still... But an update.
Fixed plumbing issues and loads of other things have done about 1500 miles and have oneirritating issue, misfire at WOT. Tonight I went out and put the stock ecu chips back in and although boost has dropped from 2.2 to 1.8, the WOT issue has gone..... Soooooo the chips are home-fry of unknown origin the MAP sensor in the ECU is standard everything else was unchanged, what could be causing my WOT issue if the std chips work fine. Is it down to that extra .4 of boost popping a pipe. Or is it just too much for the ignition coils? I can't see anything obvious but have got a spark tester I was going to have a play with.
Zou wel kunnen kloppen want de motor en ecu is Nederlands
I'll send him a message he may be able to help. On a side note, where can I get the upgraded MAP sensors?
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Well, the ecu has been here, that's for sure. But as you can see on the outside of the ECU, I have a labeling machine. Chips that came from me will have a white printed label on them.
The only person offering Mafless is PRJ and that is after years of experience. In fact if you went to spend money and it helps with your packaging and it eliminates an increasingly hard to obtain and costly component, I would certaintly give that some consideration. Its not as if being stock is a consideration. You would have to consult with him over the suitability. So those Nero chips are definitely not Mafless!
Obviously it is unreasonable not to expect a few glitches. Nevertheless it is encouraging progress.
Well the 5 hour round trip went well, just a short list of things to do that I was already aware of, and one new issue, but I'll dive back into the garage for that because I think I have a solution already....
Just so you know the list:
Cooling, she runs a bit warm, especially when the ambient temp creeps up, so I need to direct air into and out of the radiator and oil cooler better, basically a question of fabrication.
Low throttle hiccups, if you drive like hoon she goes fine, but sedate just off idle driving can lead to massive hiccups. The idle position sensor is fine, I think this may be down to something someone pointed out earlier about the distance between the air filter and the MAF. I'm not sure but I don;t think I had this issue with the Nero chips so I am wondering if they were a MAFless map, chalk that up as one to look at in the future.
Fuel Economy isn't looking too bad either, 143 miles of varied driving required 19.10 litres of fuel, so about 34 mpg which really isn't that bad!
....now back to work and decide if I use her to drive to Leeds tonight... circa 4.5 hours, maybe too much of a good thing!
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Sorry missed that one 
that you missed Item 1 of my "Monthly Reminder" post, last bumped on April 1, 2015 (a month ago) 
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