3b timing problem

[WidowmakerS2]

Oh well, as the rotor is obviously firing the spark plugs in the right order, I know it turns.

Here's some more pictures of what I've been up to. I'm afraid some will say "I told you so" .

-Took the dizzy out to visually check it and measure resistance over the rotor.
- Resistance - 1,1 K ohm. Rotor didn't look good. Small cracks in the black part.

-Took the timing belt of, rechecked the timing, marked up all the timing marks in black marker to make it easier to see.

- Refitted the distributor on the marks.

No start.
Twisted the distributor anti-clockwise about 3mm, fired right up.

I stopped and started it a few times, everything was allright.
I waited for the temp gauge to reach 90°C, then switched off.
After that, it wouldn't start again.

I'm thinking, either the front crank sprocket has come "loose", or the hall sensor is on it's way out. A friend is bringing a locking tool over next weekend, so will be able to check that. The search for a new distributor is on!

Edit: Pics tomm, f**ked it up.

[OLD100]

you need to physically check turn the car over and have some one look if the rotor is turning as once the TDC is recognised the ECU takes over at least that will eliminate that

[WidowmakerS2]

Is the rotor arm turning in the distributor? if not drive gear on cam snapped

Yes, it must have turned. The car ran for a while.

Can you confirm what way 3-pin plug plugs into the distributor? Locking clip in or out?
I'm really checking out every possibility now.

[OLD100]

Is the rotor arm turning in the distributor? if not drive gear on cam snapped

[WidowmakerS2]

Have you checked the keyway on the crank pulley.

I have checked that the bolt is tight, but I don't have any locking tool at hand. Wouldn't that affect timing marks aswell?

Crank pulley changed less than 1000km ago.

[220bhp]

Have you checked the keyway on the crank pulley.

[WidowmakerS2]

This continues to puzzle me..

Had the intake manifold off, timed the engine again, checked all the marks. A little trouble with the mark in the flywheel (rust), but checked with probe down #1 and vibration damper mark.

Then i took the distributor out, cleaned the rotor tip and put it back in, with the rotor facing towards the front of the engine, and the two marks aligned.

Tried to start it up, there was nothing. Just cranking over.
Tried to adjust the distributor a few mm up and down again, as it had worked before.
It fired right up.

Am I missing something important here?

My thought about the flywheel is that I've heard some people say that the G4 pin is moved on the flywheel on 7A vs 3b, hence why my hall -and crank windows don't match before i manipulate it outside marks?

[WidowmakerS2]

I'm sorry urs4, problem must be on my part, the images in that Thread showed up as little boxes. I guess dizzy timing is code enough then, and the problem must be somewhere else.
Quattrostyle: Thanks for the writeup. At least I thought that's what I've done. Never encountered anything like this before.

[UrS4boy]

...I can't find the pictures describing dizzy timing. At this point I'm starting to doubt even the most basic things, so anything would be of great help.

What do you mean, can't find pictures? The first picture in the link I gave you is this one:



Yours:

[quattrostyle]

I persume you already did the following but I would start with the basics (and also clean up the tip from that rotor)

1. Take plug no.1 out
2. Check the heigt of piston no.1 with a long screwdriver
3. Rotate the crank and guide the screwdriver so it doesn't get stuck
4. Stop at the point the piston is in top position (that's TDC?)
5. Check if the lobes on the camshafts at cil. no.1 are pointing upwards, indicating the valves are closed, if not loosen the cambelt, adjust the camshafts and tighten the belt again
6. Adjust the distributor timing as accurately as possible like in the pic you posted
7. Check the spark leads order with the timing order 1-2-4-5-3
8. Mount the distributor cap and start the car.

Regarding to the flywheel, 7A flywheels have been used on S2's to get rid of the dual mass flywheels so that shouldn't be a problem.

[WidowmakerS2]

Well, this car did have some boost issues, but nothing like limp-home mode.

I agree on the crank keyway.

I can't find the pictures describing dizzy timing. At this point I'm starting to doubt even the most basic things, so anything would be of great help. I'm not working on the car today, so I have time to gather some information.

Ignition timing is 12453 ?
I'm pretty sure this had numbered leads, but i cant remember the way they were fitted.


Here's the pic of
the dizzy timing: (sorry it flipped over on the side)

I'm thinking, maybe the timing marks are lined up too far "up", and they should be lined up pointed towards the water manifold or something.

[220bhp]

Two important things hear. One, If the alignment marks on the side of the dissy don't line up perfectly, you will not get full boost. You can try to do it with a mirror or a scope ,but to be honest you would be better to take the inlet manifold of, that way you can get to, and check everything properly. It is not to much of a job with the right tool.
A long allen key on a socket fits through the holes in the manifold.You don't have to disconnect the throttle body etc, just undo the manifold bolts,lift it of and tie it up to the bonnet. There are pictures on hear of how to line the dissy ,and the timing.
The second thing is to check the keyway on the crank pulley. If its had a cam belt done there is a chance the crank bolt was replaced without locktight, or wasn't tourqed up properly allowing the keyway to move enough to put the timing out,or if it shears of ,the valves hit the pistons. This is a common failure with the i5.

Good luck

[WidowmakerS2]

There are nice 3B timing photos in this post:

http://forums.quattroworld.com/v8/msgs/13192.phtml

Thank you!

The top two are the way i had it, but I checked the crank timing by using a probe down the #1 cyl spark plug hole.

[UrS4boy]

There are nice 3B timing photos in this post:

http://forums.quattroworld.com/v8/msgs/13192.phtml

[WidowmakerS2]

At this point I can't say wether the belt was done correctly or not, because the car had problems before trying to time it up.