Need some help before balancing bottom end.

[k.alle]

Hi guys.


I'm in the process of collecting parts and making sure the bottom end is ready for weight matching and balancing.

I have a AAN spare block that I will build on.

So the questions:

1. If i keep the AAN harmonic dampener and mount it with a ABY front pulley this will cause no problems right?

2. Flywheel.
Got a 7A one from a fellow forum member and I need to know what pins is important on my setup. I have taken a couple of pictures, anyone with knowledge please chime in on what pins is necessary for me.
As you can see one has snapped, do I need to replace it?
Am I right in thinking the pin on the back is for timing and will work as is with ABY stuff?

And when lightening the flywheel the stuff to remove is where the arrow points right?


Anything else I should not forget before sending stuff off to the workshop?
It will be honed, new rings on OEM pistons and FCP X-profile rods and new bearings all around.

Grateful for information.

[Error404]

I don't think the AAN damper will fit on the ABY pulley, but you can try.

No1, No2, No5 are dowels for locating the clutch pressure plate - these you can remove / replace.
No3, No4 AFAIK are not used and can be removed.
On the flip side yes timing pin is circled. Removing meat from the flywheel, you should try and take the mass from the outside as it will be the most effective reduction.
Like this:




I would get front pulley & crank assembly balanced together, then get flywheel & clutch cover balanced separately, so you can change flywheel / clutch cover at a later date and not upset balance.

Parts to send:
Damper/pulley
crank sprocket
crank bolt
crank
rods & bolts
rod bearings
pistons, pins, rings
flyweel
flywheel bolts
clutch cover & bolts

think that's it

[k.alle]

Thank you so much for a thorough answer.

Well if the AAN harmonic damper and the ABY pulley does not mate together can I use the ABY harmonic damper instead?
I was under impression that you could not mix and match different cranks and dampers?
How does other do it with AAN block and ABY components?

[Error404]

Maybe I misunderstood about the damper pulley?

JP's pic will help:



Frmo left to right: bolt, sprocket, pulley, damper.

The ABY pulley / damper assembly has 1 x 4 groove multi-v belt and 2 x v-belt.
AAN has 1 x 6 groove multi-v and 1 x v-belt.
So AAN is not as deep as ABY which is why i think they won't mix.
The sprocket is the same for both, crank is also the same for both

HTH

[k.alle]

Ah okay, thanks for clearing that up for me.

I for some reason thought that a AAN must have the AAN damper.
I'll just go with ABY stuff on the crank then.

What about the diamond washer thingy?

[Error404]

Yes you need the diamond washer with ABY pulley/damper

[k.alle]

Kate is showing me a "drive for oil pump" 034 105 177 on the crank behind the crank sprocket. Is this something to buy new on a rebuild?

[Error404]

No need unless there is something wrong with it. I've never known anyone to replace it

[k.alle]

Cheers!

[repo]

Oil pump drive gear needs to be replaced if crank is about to be nitrided. I always leave the gear on for nitriding, and then just pull it out by welding a piece of pipe on it and simply yanking it out. In the nitriding process the gear expands and gets too loose to drive the pump, so this is necessary.

New one goes in easily, if You warm it up with a hot air gun, and then just slide it on.

But like said, unless the crank is nitrided, there is no need to replace the gear.

[k.alle]

So, my bottom end is undergoing balancing and all things necessary at the moment.
I recently found out that the AAN sump / oil pan (?) is different from the ABY version, hence my wanted add in the wanted section.
I've got an offer to buy a 7A sump instead.

Question: which sumps are identical to the ABY one, if any?
Is the 7A version a fit and forget?

And while i'm at it, any other holes regarding AAN-ABY I should avoid falling down in?

Will for an example ABY oil dip stick and tubing work as intended on an AAN bottom end?


Cheers for the help!

[quattro-nick]

something very important about the flywheel timing pin.it's better to make the pin bigger for a good rpm signal because a few forum members had some trouble with this
the picures or my adapted timing pin(i have also AAN engine)

link with other examples

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=65155&highlight=flywheel+timing+pin

[k.alle]

something very important about the flywheel timing pin.it's better to make the pin bigger for a good rpm signal because a few forum members had some trouble with this
the picures or my adapted timing pin(i have also AAN engine)

link with other examples
http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthr...eel+timing+pin

Aw crap, when I get my flywheel back it is balanced to the rest of the crank.
I really don't want to weld on more material on it if I can avoid it.

Is there a easy way to make sure that the sensor sees the pin before I mount the engine in the car?


Also, do you know if 7A sump and ABY sump is identical?

[quattro-nick]

i'm the guy from the 7A sump
i know it's a direct fit because i used this sump on my AAN engine and i'm almost sure the AAN,ABY and ADU are the same
if you want i will take a picture of it and post it here
i dont know if there is a better solution for the timing pin

[k.alle]

i'm the guy from the 7A sump
i know it's a direct fit because i used this sump on my AAN engine and i'm almost sure the AAN,ABY and ADU are the same
if you want i will take a picture of it and post it here
i dont know if there is a better solution for the timing pin

Yeah you certainly are, sorry about that
The AAN is different from the ABY , that much i know. It wont clear some part of the chassis. That's why I want to be certain that whatever sump i get will be a direct fit.