ARP diverter valve! but which one??

[EMU_S2]

Hi there S'maniacs
I have heard so much about the ARP DV now and have decided to go with one unless somebody recommends another valve. BUT!! ive noticed on their website that they have a few different ones, and i have absolutely no clue which one would be more suitable for my car than another one.

Audi 1.8T DV100001 $159.99
Audi 2.7TT DV100001 $159.99
Audi 4.2TT DV100001 $159.99

which one would be the better one to go with?

Thanks in advance

Chris.

[k.alle]

If DV100001 is the part number they all refer to the same DV.

[EMU_S2]

you got a point there. just missed that part.. Doh...

Thanks. )

[Jamo]

They aren't all the same dump valve, they have different spring rates inside. Order the 1.8T version

[EMU_S2]

arh. allright then.
i prolly should mention im running a modded stock turbo, race cat cams, fox exhaust decat system and an MTM 260 ECU. should i still run with the 1.8t?

[Jamo]

Yes, the bi-turbo ones have different spring rates due to original models causing fluttering on boost, APR corrected this by changing the spring inside, quite well documented across the net.

I had an 1.8t APR DV in my stroker running 500+

[EMU_S2]

allright then. 1.8T it is then. Thanks a bunch.
Any other recommendations for different BOV's, DV's or running without any is recommended, please supply both pros and cons of each.
(knowledge is power)

[Jamo]

OEM 710N from Audi TT's or Turbosmart IMO

[Rusty]

Been running a Forge DV007 since 2007 and haven't touched it. Still works just fine. Go for a good brand and I don't think you can go too far wrong.

[Jamo]

As long as it's not a Baileys I agree

[EMU_S2]

ok. ive heard alot about 007 valve and arp r1. but i recon you all recommend the diverter valve type? but how come?

[rynaqui]

ok. ive heard alot about 007 valve and arp r1. but i recon you all recommend the diverter valve type? but how come?

I have a forge 007 as well and can't fault it. Runs well

[Rusty]

Advantage of the ARP is that it's a diaphragm type, so has much lower inertia than the piston type and so is faster to react. This means that you get faster spool when you get back on the throttle. It's fractions of a second but is still better in that respect. Disadvantages are that the diaphragm design is less robust, although the ARP item is a very strong material, so I think that solves that.

The only bad thing I read about ARP was that the nut and washer on the end of the plunger can come lose and be sucked in to the turbo. Not sure how often this can happen but the fact that it has happened means that it's something I'd be checking every now and again.

The other option is to look at the hybrid DVs, which allow recirculation and vent to atmosphere. I ran a GFB valve for a bit that had this option as a completely adjustable item and there are also Turbosmart and Forge ones that do this.

Advantage is noise. Disadvantage of this is that you lose some metered air, so it runs slightly rich every time you get back on the throttle after a 'dump'. This is minimised due to the small proportion of air that is leaked but it's still not right.

If you like noise, just drill the sirbox or run a cone and stick with 100% recirc valve.

[EMU_S2]

that was exactly what i was thinking. but im running a hybrid valve atm. and im having troubles with the engine allmost shutting down if i floor it, depress the clutch and let go of the throttle. if i just stay like that it ALLMOST shuts down, atleast is goes down to 4-500 rpm for a second, and then it adjusts to 800-850 rpm again.

Personally i love the sound wen driving without a BOV/DV. But id rather not break anything...