They cost a bit more than that they worked out half the price of the ARP for a compelte set when I built my stroker, maybe the diesel ones are more expensive.
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Bolt part number is the same for gas and diesel block. And you don't have to buy them from the "stealer", you can just use universal M10x80 10.9 bolts.
Audi UrS4 Avant 2.5 20vt - twincharged - Project
Audi 80q B4 Sedan 2.2 20vt - Daily user
BMW 320d Touring e91 M-Sport - Daily user
BMW 740iA e38 - ProjectComment
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Audi S2 -1994 | 480 Hp 650 Nm | FlexFuel | MaxxECU | 3" Stainless | Porsche GT3 Front Brakes
http://www.garaget.org/?car=52877Comment
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There is nowhere mentioned in the AAN service manual that the main cap bolts have to be renewed. Just states the tightening torque - 65 Nm, but I'd anywhay renew them if using OEM.Comment
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One more question about head ARP's.
I keep seeing undercut and a standard version, which one to get?Audi S2 -1994 | 480 Hp 650 Nm | FlexFuel | MaxxECU | 3" Stainless | Porsche GT3 Front Brakes
http://www.garaget.org/?car=52877Comment
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Best/cheapest place to buy ARP head studs?
Anywhere in Europe is fine.Audi S2 -1994 | 480 Hp 650 Nm | FlexFuel | MaxxECU | 3" Stainless | Porsche GT3 Front Brakes
http://www.garaget.org/?car=52877Comment
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FCP Engineering came through with at top deal for the ARP's, 170 Euro delivered. Thanks Tomas!Audi S2 -1994 | 480 Hp 650 Nm | FlexFuel | MaxxECU | 3" Stainless | Porsche GT3 Front Brakes
http://www.garaget.org/?car=52877Comment
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Somebody has the correct ARP part number for the long main bolts?
As there are 2 apparently. Ones are shorter than the others and i need the longer ones.
Thank You!
Regards!
EugenComment
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0.002mm is under a tenth not a thou did, you mean 0.02mm ?
It's still technically under under a thou of course, just a very long way under
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20VT Oil Pressure Sender, Switches, Wiring and Check Valves
Actually you do need 2 of the shorter ones too, in order to prevent crushing the oil gallery check valve. From a previous post:
"NOTE: It is possible to crush the check valve when installing the No. 3 main cap bolt without the cap or a main cap stud, e.g. an ARP stud that is too long. This can result in the check valve ball being unable to return to its seat when the engine is off. This allows the oil to drain down out of the head when the engine is off. As result, this will lead to wear issues on the camshaft during the period of rotation before the engine oil is again pumped back up into the head. Cam follower ("lifter") performance might also be impacted or compromised by this damaged check valve.
Here is a photo showing both a damaged and a good check valve. You can see how the valve body has been crushed on the valve on the left:
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RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avantComment
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Thank you! I know this! I can make 1 olt shorter with 10mm or something. I ordered 1 set and they are too short. Iff i screw them in maximum, i barely succeed to fit the nut without washer. I need the longer version and i will cut 1 bolt the correct lenght to keep the check valve intact.Actually you do need 2 of the shorter ones too, in order to prevent crushing the oil gallery check valve. From a previous post:
"NOTE: It is possible to crush the check valve when installing the No. 3 main cap bolt without the cap or a main cap stud, e.g. an ARP stud that is too long. This can result in the check valve ball being unable to return to its seat when the engine is off. This allows the oil to drain down out of the head when the engine is off. As result, this will lead to wear issues on the camshaft during the period of rotation before the engine oil is again pumped back up into the head. Cam follower ("lifter") performance might also be impacted or compromised by this damaged check valve.
Here is a photo showing both a damaged and a good check valve. You can see how the valve body has been crushed on the valve on the left:
"
Thank you!
Regards!
EugenComment
This. 
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