AAN engine rebuild

[hunker7]

This idea has been in my head for some time now, but didn't really have a genuine reason to do it, but now I have noticed that engine seems to be running on oil (no blue smoke). Had half-level, did about 200 mile round trip and it's on minimum, I suspect failed valve stem seals, as there is no leaks around the engine and turbo is all good too. Fuel consumption is quite high too, so unless I do an engine rebuild I don't think the problems will stop if I'm fair.

Car has done 180000 miles, what parts would you suggest replacing while engine's on the table (piston rings, valves, tappets etc?) I would be replacing all the sensors possible with genuine parts, as I really don't fancy putting old one's back. Are there any parts that can be upgraded on the way? (not looking for power upgrades).

Also I want to port the head while it's on the table, I know there are professionals that can do that, but I assume it will cost me a leg to do it. I know that there are kits for D.I.Y porting, and suggestions or tips from people who have done that?

I know this forum has seen loads of engine rebuilds, so approx. how much such an adventure would cost me? I am doing all work myself, with help of my dad, so no labour cost.

...anything else I should look out for, check, change?

[diesel des]

It is likely to need a re bore and oversized pistons. So budget for that. It won't be a cheap exercise. I would get the valves and seats ground and the guides replaced. No point porting the head if your not going for power. It seems a shame not to replace the rods though as cheep Chinese rods arnt expensive and would allow the bottom end to do 600bhp if required on stock pistons.

When you start it's hard to know when to stop. I found it easier to justify these costs when your building it for more power. Even a rs2 turbo setup would benefit from better rods.

[hunker7]

Power wise I will do RS2 conversion and that's about it, bu that won't happen any time soon.

[popdemonic]

failed pcv system will use more oil too.if your car never smoke out a bit i dont think your valve stem seals are the culprit.you might be trying to pull out your intake tracts and inspected for any oil deposited there.compression and leakdown tests tell you if you need a rebuild.if tes,while i was there i would throw stronger rods in since it's cost
a couple hundred quid but give you an extra room for performance upgrade.i also have a plan to rebuild aan too.i have a block submerged with molasses for 6months lol.dont ask me why i took that so long i just had no time to pull her out.I'm going to have it honing once i have time and money to do it.

[hunker7]

I did think about rods, but do I need to upgrade them if I am not going for more than 350hp in the future? The car is a daily, and will stay as a daily.

[popdemonic]

350ish stock rods is just fine but while i was there i would throw the H beams rods in since i used to think 350ish was way more than enough to me but not now lol.

[diesel des]

Yea but in a daily driver torque is king. Rs2 turbos can bend stick rods when tuned for torque.

[hunker7]

I'll be checking compression when i go home on half term.

Someone on here had RS2'd S2 I think, and was kickin out in region of 550nm, would that be too much for standard rods?

[popdemonic]

I had GT2871 poor tuned kicked out 495nm on Dyno with stock rods.no problem.

[igor136]

What about compression pressure? My is 11.5 bar pro each cylinder ( 300 000km)

[hunker7]

Haven't done compression test yet, will do when I get home for half term

[igor136]

You have to make a compression test. This is the first. If one cylinder is much worse compression than the other, then put a little oil into the cylinder. Or mixture oil+ fuel. If compression is better, then the problem is the piston rings. If not better, then the problem valve.

[andy10v]

Whatever you budget, it will cost more

How mad do you want to go?

Head gasket set
Bottom end gasket set
Sump gasket
Main bearings
Rod bearings
Thrust bearings
turbo gaskets

Cylinder bore/hone
piston rings
skim block
skim head
valve guides
re cut valve seats
re cut valves
re face flywheel

clutch
throwout bearing
clutch slave

balance bottom end

rods (pretty cheap insurance when you are in there)
pistons
tappets

all sensors

It will cost a lot even doing as much DIY as possible.

I did a quick and dirty, opened up, cleaned, new rods, new valve stem seals, new gaskets, port cleanup (just smoothing/removing edges) and new gaskets.

[hunker7]

I am looking at 'quick and dirty' rather than building a new engine. All the gaskets, restore head, all the sensors and general clean up.

Still can't decide on whether I should budget for rods if I am not going for anything above RS2'd AAN.

[Rusty]

If you're rebuilding the engine then change the rods and upgrade the clutch. It's a small amount extra and means that the car will be able to take whatever you throw at it. I got £100 for a set of rods on eBay, so with some secondhand ones on here selling for £250, that's easy man-maths.

For a clutch, it's another £200 over a proper Sachs road clutch, even just the pressure plate would be worth the extra money, as you'll be pushing the limits with stock clutch and RS2.