AAN engine rebuild

[hunker7]

Stock rods are fine at RS2 power if there are no issues (same rods as an RS2), you can bend stock rods with an RS2 turbo if there is a problem.

I decided they were cheap insurance whilst the engine was in bits, and future proof.

Of course I will inspect them before chucking them back in

[andy10v]

I meant issue as in detonation, **** fuel, mapping issue, boost spike etc.

[Vorsprung durch Technik]

I know of a gent in his early 60's now, who bought a UR quattro brand new back in the 80's which he has travelled over 500,000 miles.....yes 500,000 in as his daily as a business man. It was decided it needed Valve stem seals so whilst there they checked the bores and they were still well within Factory tolerances and it was deemed perfect the bottom end. Now i am aware from this good forum that later engined cars using ABY and AAN blocks may or may not be made of the same stuff/quality as the UR blocks ie MB and whatever the other incarnations were but even ABY and AAN blocks can do 300,000 plus miles without breaking a sweat with correct servicing.

The problem of premature wear with the later blocks your all talking about might have something in no small way to do with what type of owner/mods the poor car has had to endure later in it's life.

Dumping clutches at 4k rpm for a drag start does the drivetrain no good at all and is it any wonder that there is the inevitable tears when it all goes wrong with premature wear.

[quattrostyle]

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74199 this would be your best bet!

[hunker7]

Thanks, but no thanks. I don't want to just buy stuff, I like a challange.

[quattrostyle]

Even if it becomes more expensive?

[Error404]

Either open the engine and do it properly or leave it. You will 100% need to rebore with new pistons to do a proper rebuild at that mileage. As Des said bores will be oval, piston skirts will be worn. IMHO there is no point doing half a job on a reasonably healthy engine, it will have many thousands more miles in it. Uprated H-beam rods are a drop in the ocean really, Believe me you will spend £3k absolute minimum to do a decent full build with new sensors etc.

[diesel des]

That engine linked above looks like a bargain.

[quattrostyle]

That engine linked above looks like a bargain.

That's what I thought as well. No point in doing it yourself and spend much more time and money certainly not when being a student.

[hunker7]

Engine rebuild is a long term idea, and will only happen next summer earliest. Before pulling the motor out, I will do the compression test, test the ignition and make sure it's valve stem seals that have failed before pulling the head off too.

I won't be buying rods and pistons without actually checking how bores are. Service history is pretty good on mine, and if it's been maintained properly, there will be no need for new bores imho. If I was going for big power, then it would be no brainer. If it means I'll spend more, let it be, but it could be that I spend less than a rebuilt engine. Time will show.

Thanks for all the input though.

[Error404]

All fine, but listen to the advice in this thread, it is born out of experience not opinion
As the old saying goes, “A learned fool is more a fool than an ignorant fool.”

[hunker7]

All fine, but listen to the advice in this thread, it is born out of experience not opinion
As the old saying goes, “A learned fool is more a fool than an ignorant fool.”

I am taking all the advice. If it comes to it, I will do rods, new bores and pistons. But I won't just assume that that needs doing, and buy a complete engine. If bores are withing manufacturer tolerances, then I don't see the point for new bores.

[Error404]

Well, OEM piston to bore max permissible clearance is 0.15mm from memory, which is mahoosive!
So if you have say 0.12mm clearance, well within "tolerance" but you may aswell install the pistons with pork sausages instead of rings