Anyone tried a different n75 valve on there cars

[UrS4boy]

UrS4boy, that is known and also appicable for 3b engines but, mine does click and works as supposed.. How well do they work, do they leak etc? that is what I want to know, how do they work under stress.

My comments re: checking the N75 via an output test was directed towards Val, not you.

As for what you are looking for, I personally don't know of any such testing. I also haven't heard of one leaking, except maybe at a nipple because some ham-fisted mechanic broke it (a nipple) installing a hose or what not.

[domas]

UrS4boy, that is known and also appicable for 3b engines but, mine does click and works as supposed.. How well do they work, do they leak etc? that is what I want to know, how do they work under stress.

[Quattronaut]

For electric test; Plug out, resistance has to be between 25 and 35 ohm.

[UrS4boy]

Conducting an Output test with a paper clip

1.8T can do output test with vag-com/vcds. Don't know about dinosaur ecu's...

UrS Motronics are smarter than you give them credit for. You can do output tests with them via VAG-Com/VCDS or, if you are without that, with a paper clip. Yes, a paper clip:

**************************************

"UrS4/S6 with AAN 5 cylinder 20V Turbo Engine (OR and ABY or ADU and probably 3B)

There is also an "output test" mode that will cycle the engine electrical solenoids on and off to verify they are working correctly. You are able to test the 5 Fuel Injectors Idle Stabilizer Valve (ISV) Carbon Canister Solenoid Valve Waste Gate Solenoid (waste gate frequency valve)

To activate the Output Tests, you must first connect the Jumper Wire across the Fault Code Connectors as shown in the diagram and THEN turn on the ignition to initiate the output tests. (DON'T START THE ENGINE) After the ignition is turned on, remove the jumper wire after at least 4 seconds.



•FUEL INJECTOR TESTS: After you have removed the jumper wire, you can place your fingers down on fuel injector #1 and then open and close the throttle with your other hand. You should hear and feel #1 Injector click 5 times and then be quiet, place your fingers on Injector #2 and again open and close the throttle, Injector #2 should click 5 times, place your fingers on Injector #4 and open and close the throttle, Injector #4 should click 5 times, repeat for Injectors #5, then Injector #3

•After doing the last injector test on #3 the Output test will switch to testing the IDLE STABILIZER VALVE (ISV). You should hear this Idle Stabilizer Valve clunk open and closed..

•Connect the jumper wire again for 4 seconds to go to the next output test:

•The blue Carbon Canister valve behind the idle stabilizer valve (behind throttle area) will be cycled on and off. You may want to place your hand around the carbon canister valve to feel it operate.

•Connect the jumper wire again for 4 seconds

•The Waste Gate Solenoid on the intake boot near the turbo inlet will be cycled on and off. This valve operation is pretty loud, so you should be able to hear it operate.

•Connect the jumper wire again for 4 seconds.

•End of Output Test Procedure, fault code memory has been cleared.

•NOTE: To repeat the Output tests, the ignition should be turned off for at least 20 seconds. If Output tests are repeated, the INJECTORS will NOT be cycled again, unless the engine is started and run briefly. "

Reference: http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/troubl...20v.html#outs4

[Val]

With the right frequency?

1.8T can do output test with vag-com/vcds. Don't know about dinosaur ecu's...

[domas]

is there any way to test them? apply 12v and see if the airflow changes accordingly to diagram?

[quattro-nick]

i have replaced my n75 valve this week (034906283h) and kost 129 euro here in belgium

[Quattronaut]

By the time the ecu adapts on the agressive ones as I know. Most of the improvement people get from changing to the "race" or "more agressive"or "faster" ones ist just from changing the 10 year old one to an new one I tried several ones from new to new; nearly no difference. And that little difference I noticed in some cases was gone a few km later, when ecu adapted.

[domas]

as a rule of thumb, all of 20v n75's are considered being good, the only difference between is how aggressive they are

[Val]

Yes, don't scratch/cut wiring. Car will cost 100gbp less.

[Monkeymagic]

The 1.8t ones are plumbed the opposite way round you cannot get the wiring plug on.

[geneandbolly]

i fitted a J valve to my s6 (aan) instead of the hideously expensive H valve without any issues - it runs really well . . .

[UrS4boy]

N75 WGFV info and review of N75 options

Has anyone tried a different n75 valve on there car .Such as the 225 tt one. 034906282j seems to be getting more, and more expensive.

The three factory UrS (S2, UrS4/S6 and RS2) options were:

034 906 283 J = stock 3B (in 200 20v and S2)
034 906 283 H = stock AAN (UrS4 and UrS6)
034 906 283 K = S2 ABY and RS2 ADU

I am running a 283K on my completely RS2'd AAN but I am thinking of going back to the 283H (seemed smoother)

Here is a link to an article about some of the N75 variants:
http://forums.audiworld.com/s4s6/msgs/49283.phtml

Which came from:
http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/20987.phtml

Which was accessed from the link below by clicking on the N75 label:
http://members.shaw.ca/speedtek/UrS%...ice%20Map.html

034 sells the 283H for US$225 as a "race" N75:
http://store.034motorsport.com/catal.../result/?q=n75

which is funny because one of the Audi dealers who sells on line has it for US$156 off a US$210 list.

http://genuineaudiparts.com/parts/in...&siteid=214407

[StickyWickett]

Just put a new K on mine from German Auto Spares. Apparently I hadn't been getting full power since I bought the car as it's now faster than a scouser with your stereo. Now though it's developed cold weather idle problems and fuel cuts on acceleration

Am I right in assuming the only difference between the J and K valves is the positioning of the plug?

[Henkjan]

I have this one:
http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthr...ght=heavy+duty