3b engine rebuild info required.

[Tomhorner]

Evening all I have just got my s2 back from the body shop I will do my best to upload some pictures soon, however my engine as previously said was very poorly turns out the big ends had all picked up and my crank is shot. I had taken the engine to a northeast rebuilder who has a very good reputation but after it not been touched since November I have decided enough is enough and tackle it my self. I have rebuilt numerous engines mainly on tractors though! I have bought a 7A donor engine to use the crank from that.

I taken the head off my engine and have had it skimmed and pressure tested so it's good to go. I have bought new main bearings, big end bearings, forged conrods, top and bottom gasket set, thrust washers and numerous other bits from Pete at Quattro corner. I was wondering if people could please give me some information such as torque settings for the big ends ect and any other helpful information? I will be posting pictures as I go along.

Regards Tom

[Error404]

If you have spun the mains is the block useable?

Download the AAN workshop manual from here (3B is the same for pretty much everything, certainly all the important rotating components) - includes all factory torque settings - http://www.s2-audi.co.uk/workshop/aan/aan.pdf
What bearings did you get from said retailer?

[Tomhorner]

Spot on thank you for your help! I don't believe they have spun, the engine was running fine just low oil pressure then when I dropped the sump off was like a fine grinding paste left in the sump, the man had a quick look and said it would be fine to use the block but to get another crank so I got a 7A engine.. can't remember from the top if my head make of the bearings but he said they were oem equivalent..

[Error404]

Yeah I'd check those bearings are correct for the S2.... what some people say are "OEM equivalent" are cheap crap, nothing like OEM. You want the more expensive sputter mains. If you post up the brand & part numbers that would help
Its rare for the cranks to wear excessively in these engine which I why I wondered why they told you to get a new crank

[pasbogdan]

Yeah I'd check those bearings are correct for the S2.... what some people say are "OEM equivalent" are cheap crap, nothing like OEM. You want the more expensive sputter mains. If you post up the brand & part numbers that would help
Its rare for the cranks to wear excessively in these engine which I why I wondered why they told you to get a new crank

Search rebuild price topics here and you will have a clue of what it costs.
Get the engine to someone that knows this type of engine for a rebuild.You can try yourself but you might pay 2 times for a repair and you will also loose time.

Regards,

[Tomhorner]

No problem, soon as I get my old engine, donor engine and parts back I will upload pictures and list all the new parts I have got with pictures and part numbers ect I'm sure they are sputter shells from the aby I have been supplied.. Will check thought I be safe, my oil cooler will be un useable now what oil coolers would people recommend using?

Thanks pasbogdan but I'm going to give it a go, rebuilt my vintage cars engines 1948 alvis Ta14, 1937 austin heavy 12 taxi and various vintage tractors I own so I think I should be able to tackle this one no problem just verifying I have the right parts for the job is the biggest problem by the sounds of it!

[SteveH]

I seem to remember there are cast cranks and forged cranks. Not sure if the 7A got the cast option rather than forged and don't know whether the cast is weaker. Probably worth investigating just in case.

[pasbogdan]

If you know basics you can try.Do not forget to measure bores for round,block with caps on and torqued also for round and line,conrods also.Check the crank,measure it.Put bearings inside block and rods,tight them to torque and use dial gauge to measure those.
Calculate then "oil film" between crank and bearings.Use also plasti gauge at the end.This is basic for a healthy engine.Other you will learn in repair manual.

Enjoy!

[Tomhorner]

Thanks I will have a look into the cranks, is there a specific oil cooler people use apart from the oem one? Pasbogdan I will remember what you said and check them all thanks!

[andy10v]

Thanks I will have a look into the cranks, is there a specific oil cooler people use apart from the oem one? Pasbogdan I will remember what you said and check them all thanks!

Budget oil cooler uprade/relocation

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=61411

OEM location upgrade

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54762

I went for the MG one, cheap, and gets the oil cooler up off the ground.

If you have the ability I would just rebuild the engine yourself, you can ensure its done properly. Workshop manual is linked above, any extra info needed for the 3B, eg timing marks etc are all available online, help, support and general abuse is free on here

If you are going to buy stuff, its worth a search on here, or ask, many genuine parts are available at a fraction of the price of dealers or QC etc (and not always NLA as you may be told)

Anyway as with all threads, pop up some pictures of your progress

Good luck with the engine

[andy10v]

Other thing is why had the big ends picked up? Lack of oil pressure or what? I would want to find the problem, cause of problem, solve problem and then rebuild from there.

What are you doing regards bores, pistons etc?

[Tomhorner]

Thanks Andy, we own a steel fabrication company and one of the smaller units I basically use as a garage for my personal cars and storage we rented half the work shop few months ago to a blue chip company and some of the lads were lets say not the most trust worthy of people, I had the engine out the s2 as I was having gearbox, subframes ect front, rear all referded, shot blasted powder coated and all branded bushes. I had the engine sat on a engine stand not covered and I think someone has put some thing init as it ran fine before, then soon as I've put it back in the oil pressure fallen out on tick over so I stripped it to find a grey paste in the sump which I can only presume with no oil pressure and metallic paste is from the bearings on the crank, I'm busy so taken the engine to be rebuilt at Automark at Stokesley he was going to fully rebuild it with forged rods ect which I have supplied and he said to get a donor engine then he would lighten and balance the crank, flywheel and front pulley this was in late October I've had the car to the body shop to have new sills fitted and a full re spray my understanding was Automark would have the engine rebuilt to slot in after the car came out the body soho which hasn't happened so I have drawn a line in the sand and getting my engine and parts back, going to do it my self I'm capable just times a issue...

[Tomhorner]

Sorry few spelling mistakes in the one above!
Thanks Andy, we own a steel fabrication company and one of the smaller units I basically use as a garage for my personal cars and storage we rented half the work shop few months ago to a blue chip company and some of the lads were lets say not the most trust worthy of people, I had the engine out the s2 as I was having gearbox, subframes ect front, rear all refurbished, shot blasted powder coated and all brand new bushes. I had the engine sat on a engine stand not covered and I think someone has put some thing init as it ran fine before, then soon as I've put it back in the oil pressure fallen out on tick over so I stripped it to find a grey paste in the sump which I can only presume with no oil pressure and metallic paste is from the bearings on the crank, I'm busy so taken the engine to be rebuilt at Automark at Stokesley he was going to fully rebuild it with forged rods ect which I have supplied and he said to get a donor engine then he would lighten and balance the crank, flywheel and front pulley this was in late October I've had the car to the body shop to have new sills fitted and a full re spray my understanding was Automark would have the engine rebuilt to slot in after the car came out the body shop which hasn't happened so I have drawn a line in the sand and getting my engine and parts back, going to

[rxl]

Do take measurements before you buy stuff.. The first thing you do is take the engine part and measure the mains if they are off you can get a new block.. It's always to measure and get a plan what's damaged

[Tomhorner]

just out of interest what pistons and rings do people use?