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What does the top of your wastegate look like? Does it have a big screw sticking out the middle? If it does somebody has removed the anti tamper cover and could have tweaked the pre-load on the spring, giving you a little extra spring boost.
What does the top of your wastegate look like? Does it have a big screw sticking out the middle? If it does somebody has removed the anti tamper cover and could have tweaked the pre-load on the spring, giving you a little extra spring boost.
My thought was that something was causing you to drop to spring boost, which should be 0.4bar or 6psi on a std spring.
If the car has been superchipped they generally fit a stiffer spring and put a bolt in the top of the wastegate to fine tune it. When you removed the Superchips stuff, did you check the spring? It's not going to fix the issue but it would explain why you're getting 10psi.
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1991 Audi S2 3B - 2.5 Stroker engine
1997 A6 2.5TDi quattro avant - C4
1976 RD250E / 350LC cafe racer
Well with unplugging the MFTS and replugging the N75 I have more boost. The boost gauge is saying 17psi.
Good news Nik. Seems a bit down for an RS2 but much better than before.
What has the coolant temperature gauge been saying throughout this?
The original OE 4 pin MFTS was an active 4 pin device requiring a supply voltage. The 035919369L was dropped on Aug. 31, 1992 in favour of a 046919369, i.e. 20 years ago. In turn, the 046919369 was dropped on Dec. 31, 1993 in favour of the 034919369C which is a simpler, passive, 3 pin device that has the exact same functionality but has no 12 V supply pin. The one below is the later three pin available through your friendly Audi dealer or suppliers such as World Pac:
To change the MFTS, you need a 29 mm deep socket (to clear the brown electrical connection) and a stubby ratchet. For an AAN, move the throttle body hose out of the way to get better access. ABY and ADU won't have that issue but the radiator will no doubt create some "challenges".
I changed mine on my AAN in my Sunday clothes while waiting for my wife to come out of the house to go for Sunday brunch. I was just trialling it to see how I would do it when we came back home and before you know it (about 5 minutes), I had removed the old one and replaced it with the new one. There was some tricky finger work while doing the Dutch-boy dike plugging thing with one finger and handing-off the old one from my right hand to my left hand and then feeding the new one from the left hand to my right hand and then starting the threads by hand. NOTE: All this was done with the engine just warm from getting out of the garage to the street. DON'T DO IT with the engine HOT!!
Note: If the plastic electrical connector in the harness crumbles (due heat aging), the PN for a new one is 893971974 (Item 29 in the diagram below).(Gold plated pins = 000979227EA - only in 2.5mm, Unplated pins = 000979135E - 1mm) Note: Item 27 in the diagram is a rubber boot (grommet) that helps to protect and stabilize the MFTS signal from wind in the engine bay.
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RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant
Good news Nik. Seems a bit down for an RS2 but much better than before.
What has the coolant temperature gauge been saying throughout this?
The original OE 4 pin MFTS was an active 4 pin device requiring a supply voltage. The 035919369L was dropped on Aug. 31, 1992 in favour of a 046919369, i.e. 20 years ago. In turn, the 046919369 was dropped on Dec. 31, 1993 in favour of the 034919369C which is a simpler, passive, 3 pin device that has the exact same functionality but has no 12 V supply pin. The one below is the later three pin available through your friendly Audi dealer or suppliers such as World Pac:
To change the MFTS, you need a 29 mm deep socket (to clear the brown electrical connection) and a stubby ratchet. For an AAN, move the throttle body hose out of the way to get better access. ABY and ADU won't have that issue but the radiator will no doubt create some "challenges".
I changed mine on my AAN in my Sunday clothes while waiting for my wife to come out of the house to go for Sunday brunch. I was just trialling it to see how I would do it when we came back home and before you know it (about 5 minutes), I had removed the old one and replaced it with the new one. There was some tricky finger work while doing the Dutch-boy dike plugging thing with one finger and handing-off the old one from my right hand to my left hand and then feeding the new one from the left hand to my right hand and then starting the threads by hand. NOTE: All this was done with the engine just warm from getting out of the garage to the street. DON'T DO IT with the engine HOT!!
Note: If the plastic electrical connector in the harness crumbles (due heat aging), the PN for a new one is 893971974 (Item 29 in the diagram below).(Gold plated pins = 000979227EA - only in 2.5mm, Unplated pins = 000979135E - 1mm) Note: Item 27 in the diagram is a rubber boot (grommet) that helps to protect and stabilize the MFTS signal from wind in the engine bay.
Sorry, just to clarify, the water temp gauge works when its plugged in, but not when its unplugged.
Well that means at least part of the F76 MFTS is working, i.e. the 1/T line. The one connected to Pin T55/46 of your ECU is 2/R, the blue/white wire. You might have to at least check for continuity between the harness connector and Pin T55/46 in the 38 to 55 row of the ECU connector.
RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant
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