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Go and ask at "Chiuloasa" in your town.But ask the manager and only.
All 2.2 worn cylinders i saw they showed fails at TDC.
20 mm down from TDC all in specs,so i think this mod will help even for long term durability.
Get info if torque plate is needed for honing with this mod.I tested a stock block with a head torqued at specs and my gauge was not abble to see differences in bore diameter(0.01mm gauge).But i do not know how bores will react when head is torqued with this coolant mod.
I don't trust them. I had some trouble in the past with them so i don't want to go there anymore. They're not very proffesionals. I think torque plate is recomanded for any cylinder boring and honing jobs on performance engines at least. Although i don't have a torque plate yet maybe i can make one from an old 10v head when i start the build, just for my piece of mind.
I've bored with torque plates and without. I've bored with mains caps torqued up and not bolted up. Can measure to 0.001mm and there is not enough squaring of the block to measure properly in normal workshop conditions. If you have a climate controlled inspection room you may be able to get acurate idea of how much squaring there is at the top of the bore. I don't worry too much on old skool audi blocks. They're not like the soft v8 blocks from the US which you can see easy distortion.
As for deck cooling. I tend to avoid machining the block due to the reduction of strength in the casting support to the bores. Cyl head I pick up from the small water holes next to the headbolt holes and program cnc to go with 4mm ball nose cutter 4mm deep. If you go too wide like a lot of pictures on the web you end up machining some of the clamping face that seals the cylinder combustion ring.
I've bored with torque plates and without. I've bored with mains caps torqued up and not bolted up. Can measure to 0.001mm and there is not enough squaring of the block to measure properly in normal workshop conditions. If you have a climate controlled inspection room you may be able to get acurate idea of how much squaring there is at the top of the bore. I don't worry too much on old skool audi blocks. They're not like the soft v8 blocks from the US which you can see easy distortion.
As for deck cooling. I tend to avoid machining the block due to the reduction of strength in the casting support to the bores. Cyl head I pick up from the small water holes next to the headbolt holes and program cnc to go with 4mm ball nose cutter 4mm deep. If you go too wide like a lot of pictures on the web you end up machining some of the clamping face that seals the cylinder combustion ring.
hth JP
Thanks for the info. One less thing to worry about then.
I don't trust them. I had some trouble in the past with them so i don't want to go there anymore. They're not very proffesionals. I think torque plate is recomanded for any cylinder boring and honing jobs on performance engines at least. Although i don't have a torque plate yet maybe i can make one from an old 10v head when i start the build, just for my piece of mind.
What was your problem with them?I have send them heads with print from ElsaWin with valve angle specs and seat width,and got back exactly what i was asking.Even lots of cracked tdi heads that worked 150k km after and still work.Bores machined and honed 0.00 mm deviations round and tdc to bdc.If you think they are bad,imagine i got a block from a company in Cluj with 0.03 mm bore diffrence Tdc to Bdc And they refused to buy other block:"it is in manufacturer wear limits".
So when you do not have tools to do yourself a specific job be sure to ask specific results and measure them after job is done.
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And they refused to buy other block:"it is in manufacturer wear limits".
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