7A running bad

[ventt]

It doesn't have any airleaks, checked with start gas.

[ventt]

I found out that the distributor rotor points exactly between the 1st and 2nd cylinder, also I can't adjust it because then I would lose the spark (flywheel and hall sensor goes out of alignment). What should I do?

[Bowie69]

Sorry, but could you explain why you can't adjust it?

[ventt]

When everything is in position as in the pictures, then the rotor points excatly between the 1st and 2nd cylinder, though it should be pointing to 1st cyl. If I move the distributor, then the hall sensor "detects" the zero point at wrong time, so the spark goes away.

Also, if the flywheel mark is at zero, should the G4 (or was it G28) sensor pin be excatly behind the sensor?

Basicly, the only option to get it back at 1st cyl is move the engine belt few tooths back, but then the valves would touch the piston.

[Mikes2]

you can take the distributor out and reposition it. When you insert it, you want the rotor arm slightly off #1 so that when it engages on the splines of the camshaft it spins round to the correct position

the timing pin is nowhere near the sensor when the flywheel is on the mark.

[Bowie69]

As above, remove dizzy, twist rotor arm a bit, re-insert, check, repeat

[ventt]

Even one tooth on the distributor will lose the spark, I have tried that many times. I will try it again though.

[chezz]

Broken harmonic damper keyway?

[ventt]

While running the starter, I turned the distributor and only two options,
a) gasoline explodes in the intake
b) engine just stalls

It stalls only if the fuel pump is running. When I disconnect the relay, it'll just go over and over again.

[chezz]

A broken keyway throws the timing out...

[ventt]

I got it running now, exactly one year ago I did the engine swap ... For some reason, I still had to find mechanicly the first cylinder, the factory marks didn't align.

But yeah, the problem was mechanical, not electrical.

[ventt]

It seems to run only when it's hot... When it hasn't been running for 24hours, then I would have to push the throttle all the way open, otherwise it won't start. Also have to hold the pedal until it manages to idle. It's very-very rich when cold. Also getting the code about ISV, even though the ISV is okay, this fault came after I changed the dashboard. When the coolant temp get's to it's operating temperature, runs very smooth and no problems. How to diagnose this?

[Bowie69]

Leaky injectors....?

[ventt]

How does the engine adjust it's A/F ratio, when it's cold? Injectors can't be the problem, because they are new and installed correctly. (fuel pressure won't fall)

[Mikes2]

it's ecu controlled