WGFV is it wrong?

[S2central.net]

See Tom posted the darn part number while I was bashing away at the keyboard telling you how to test the thing. Yes - if a stock TBV makes silly noises its almost certainly toast.

[porkkis]

Isnt 00513 flywheel sensor relater and not hall ("CMP")?

And the over boost issue is probably a dirty N75 or a split WG diaphragm.

[audiman]

If you pull vacuum on the small pip on the TBV, then it should hold vacuum, if it doesnt then the rubber membrane inside is split and the thing is useless. Bin it and buy a new one, 19+vat from a stealer.

[4WheelDrifter]

Full P/N is 06A 145 710 N. IIRC.

[S2central.net]

An equally good test from young Tam !

And yes Porkkis - thats twice you've nobbled me tonight. I really must stop trying to remember fault codes.

00513 is G28 related and therefore flywheel
00515 is G40 related - the CMP

I'll get me coat !

[martin richards]

Will try all this 2morrow. Starting with my noise TBV.
All have been a great and valuable help.
Thanks.
Martin.

[alg]

I know it is easy to state after the event but I would advise any new owner to replace the N75/WGFV and TFV/DV on getting an S2/RS2 unless evidence of recent replacement.
It was the first items I replaced on the RS2. The DV made a big difference however there were no OBVIOUS signs of failure to me coming from a stock S2.
That I think is half the problem. The car or should I say motronic will cope with a variety of partial failures affecting performance well and these items need to be considered service items.

[Fat Audi 80]

Q - If my S2 feels fast as fukc, strong and willing at all revs and puts a smile on my face every time I bury the throttle do you think I would need to change the above items?

I would like my S2 to be running perfectly, although it feels like it is could there be improvements made with new WGFV and TFV?

Cheers,

Steve

[4WheelDrifter]

I would advise you test the WGFV, and get a 710N as insurance.

[alg]

Q - If my S2 feels fast as fukc, strong and willing at all revs and puts a smile on my face every time I bury the throttle do you think I would need to change the above items?

I would like my S2 to be running perfectly, although it feels like it is could there be improvements made with new WGFV and TFV?

Cheers,

Steve

No if you are familiar with the car and all feels good. The post was really directed towards new owners.
However what TFV/DV are you using ? If standard consider a change every year or so if running higher than stock boost. Less often if standard. I would change the WGFV if never changed before at some stage.
With the new DV the car was more lively and consistent all the way to the redline with no dips in the power delivery. Big smile on my face.
Depends on your approach. I wanted the car as good as possible as soon as possible as RR planned and remap under consideration. All I read suggested it was wise to replace the usual culprits.
So I did DV,WGFV,Air filter, FUEL filter, fault codes, sparks, couple oil changes and if I had the chance a boost leak test (MAF had been done in past 12 months).
These cars are 10+ years old and unless you buy one with all the bills/history it is difficult to known where to start.

[Fat Audi 80]

No if you are familiar with the car and all feels good. The post was really directed towards new owners.
However what TFV/DV are you using ? If standard consider a change every year or so if running higher than stock boost. Less often if standard. I would change the WGFV if never changed before at some stage.
With the new DV the car was more lively and consistent all the way to the redline with no dips in the power delivery. Big smile on my face.
Depends on your approach. I wanted the car as good as possible as soon as possible as RR planned and remap under consideration. All I read suggested it was wise to replace the usual culprits.
So I did DV,WGFV,Air filter, FUEL filter, fault codes, sparks, couple oil changes and if I had the chance a boost leak test (MAF had been done in past 12 months).
These cars are 10+ years old and unless you buy one with all the bills/history it is difficult to known where to start.

Mine came with receipts for £000's and the previous owner was nearly as **** as me! The car was rolling roaded at 270 bhp on an AMD chip and did almost exactly the same plot as 7 years ago, I just wondered if these changes would "feel" any better. I guess as the saying goes, if it ain't broke.....

Cheers,

Steve

[martin richards]

I'm still overboosting? To correct fault so far, as posted by Paul: TBV WAS faulty replaced with S3 item. WGFV WAS faulty and plumbed in incorrect and now replaced.(both new items) New silicon hoses fitted from TBV to inlet and WG to WGFV and turbo to WGFV and onwards to airbox. All other hoses removed and visually examined. Have not as yet checked: Split WG diaphragm, if i remove the top of the WG will, if it is split, this be visible or does it require a spec device? Incorrectly adjusted WG spring that keeps ECU within limits, again does this require a spec device? Faulty MAF, this was checked by a local motorsport garage, who then replaced lambda sensor and told me this was within normal working parameters? Can i check the MAF at home? and i did clean the wire as discussed on this forum. The last time i drove the car(weekend) i had cleared the ECU memory, she did not go into limp mode but she still boost to 1.5 bar, this usually only happens once then the limp mode cuts in, but this weekend the boost keeps rising(1.5bar) and no limp mode. I dont want to melt my turbo.
Thanks to all
Martin

[alg]

Hi Martin

The tale continues I see.

You can inspect the wastegate diaphragm by carefully removing the cap. Obvious splits would show. I do not know of any tool that checks
The standard WG does not allow adjustment of the spring ? does yours ?

MAFs are expensive so I suggest you try a working one prior to replacement. I am sure a local forum member could help

If all fails give MRC a call to see if they can delve into things futher and/or remap

I recall you were certain it was standard. MRC would also answer that one.

[S2central.net]

Hey guys - a remap will not magically fix faults !!! The MRC boys will find the fault however - Mihnea and co are well equipped to find it.

A hand operated vacuum pump (Mityvac) is the best way to test the WG diaphragm, but it only works on those WG caps that have the airtight factory fitted plug. If that's been removed to expose the adjustment screw then its not airtight anymore and you'll need to bung it up suitably well (or borrow someone elses cap for a test).

Have you done a full system pressure test yet - its often hard to visually spot air leaks in the hoses. I've encountered a couple of cracked intercoolers in the past that you'd never see a fault with - its only when you pressurise the intake tract that a leak is apparent !

Paul

[alg]

'Hey guys - a remap will not magically fix faults !!!' I know, but always an option if the guy has to travel. Makes the return trip sweeter 'The MRC boys will find the fault however - Mihnea and co are well equipped to find it.' Exactly
A