500 miles -what oil now?

[piotr]

So i did 500 miles since engine rebuild and i want to change oil now.
what oil should i go for?semi synt or still normal mineral oil?
Also what viscosity?

[Error404]

Good quality full synthetic

[piotr]

Good quality full synthetic

Cool
Do you remember what is the oil spec for ABY??

[GazzaG60]

10/40 iirc

i have run millers 10/60 and othe r10/40's no issues eitherway. my engine seems to run better for longer without the usual tappy noises of old oil on the millers. it hurts the wallet though.

[piotr]

Thank you for reply boys:-)

[Thuppu]

5w-40 synthetic ester oil is very good, no problems at 600+hp levels.

[valjo]

mobile 5/50

[s2dk]

Running 10/50 Miller nano + that stuff removed all my tappert noice
Great Oil Running 5/40 in the Winther though

[Greg_S]

Fuchs titan pro s from opie is a good choice

[piotr]

My engine builder told me not to bother with braking in oil and for the first few hundred miles just use normal mineral oil

[twenty valve]

I've tried running 5/40 and 10/40 in the past (fully synthetic and top quality), and always used to get tappet rattle after a thrashing which would take a while to disappear. This was on an engine which was fully rebuilt, including brand new oil pump and tappets

Switched to 10/50 fully synthetic and it was the best thing I ever did for my engine. No more rattling tappets and it ran noticeably more smoothly and quietly.

[twenty valve]

And mineral oil is great for running in as it allows the rings to bed in properly. If you use a really high quality synthetic oil for running in, it can actually be detrimental.

Some people do however advise to use a part synthetic or fully synthetic oil if you have a ball bearing turbo.

[PRY4SNO]

My engine builder told me not to bother with braking in oil and for the first few hundred miles just use normal mineral oil

Mineral oil is basically break in-oil. Difference between that and specific break-in oil is likely down to the additives, speciffically ZDDP.

Most likely reason he advised you to do so is synthetic oil is too slippery for the rings to bed in properly, thus resulting in blow-by after break-in.

You'll be fine.

As to your original question, as already noted... go with a quality ester-based group V synthetic oil in a viscosity appropriate to your operating conditions.

I run 5w40 year round in my cars, typically Shell Rotella T6 because it's cheap and available almost anywhere (plus has a high ZDDP content).

[piotr]

All replies much appreciated

[Sonic]

I'd second the Millers Nanodrive oil.