1.8 20V Turbo Installation ?

[CR500Dom]

Been thinking about this over winter, as I could do with a bit more grunt and a bit less understeer

I have a 10V 90Q Saloon and was thinking of swapping out the 130hp 5pot for a 20v 4pot from an A4, either NA on Throttlebodies (190Hp with some port work) or Turbo on a Full Pectel ECU...300hp+
Either will be a Lot lighter than the current boat anchor, helping both the Power to weight ratio and the Handling balance.

Anyone seen it done ? got any Ideas ? or Starting points (Which model to get donor from for ease of Transplant)

As always, all help gratefully recieved
Cheers
Dom

[Henka]

MOT?

I mean at least here in Sweden, a transplant like that can't really be done on a street legal car. Yes, you can get passed it by hoping that the MOT-dude (what's it called??) doesn't notice or doesn't care. Emissions is a PITA. Even though the engine is certified according to a later demand that the car itself you CAN'T get it through legally. But, I'm guessing that's not an issue.

A 1.8T is interesting. But a 9A is also interesting - I mean the old 16V. It was avaliable in a 2ltr confic (Passat, Audi and later Golf). Cheap. Take a ABY or AAN IM, cut it down, weld it together and you've got a pretty good IM. Tubular EM.

Another interesting route to investigate is if the 1.9 TDI crank fits. It should as it's a hacked down 2.5 5cyl crank - gotta luv commonality... Well, anyways, that can with maximum overbore produce almost 2.3ltr. But then you'd end up with really short conrods. Maybe overkill? Prolly...

The 1.8T head is supposed to be really good at what it does. But I doubt that it will flow that much better than a 16V. It's not likely to have as thick walls as a 16v at least which means it can't be ported as much. Aslo - the 16V is cheaper.

But then again... 4cyl is just half an engine... 5 pots where it's at...

[90quattrocoupe]

Been thinking about this over winter, as I could do with a bit more grunt and a bit less understeer

I have a 10V 90Q Saloon and was thinking of swapping out the 130hp 5pot for a 20v 4pot from an A4, either NA on Throttlebodies (190Hp with some port work) or Turbo on a Full Pectel ECU...300hp+
Either will be a Lot lighter than the current boat anchor, helping both the Power to weight ratio and the Handling balance.

Anyone seen it done ? got any Ideas ? or Starting points (Which model to get donor from for ease of Transplant)

As always, all help gratefully recieved
Cheers
Dom

Hi Dom,
Try here. Pretty good instruction with pictures on the installation.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1774571

Greg W.

[CR500Dom]

Hi Dom,
Try here. Pretty good instruction with pictures on the installation.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1774571

Greg W.

Thanks Greg, very usefull
Cheers
Dom

[CR500Dom]

Update

Well, was having a poke about in the local Scrap Yard looking for some bits for the Golf Syncro, and what should they have just in..............

An A4 20V Gutted by an Interior fire but engine bay is untouched :mischeif:

Price is right as well........£200 for the entire engine bay contents

No ECU due to the fire so I would have to run it on a standalone system, but that would enable me to get the installation right with a N/A Motor on Throttle bodies then swap in a 20V Turbo later on

What do you think......Worth doing ?

Cheers
Dom

[90quattrocoupe]

Well, was having a poke about in the local Scrap Yard looking for some bits for the Golf Syncro, and what should they have just in..............

An A4 20V Gutted by an Interior fire but engine bay is untouched :mischeif:

Price is right as well........£200 for the entire engine bay contents

No ECU due to the fire so I would have to run it on a standalone system, but that would enable me to get the installation right with a N/A Motor on Throttle bodies then swap in a 20V Turbo later on

What do you think......Worth doing ?

Cheers
Dom

Hi Dom,
If I had a 10V 90, I would go with the 20VT motor now instead of later. The price for that motor is fairly cheap. With a standalone system, you would get a more reliable motor with the same or more HP than the same motor with bodies. Something to think about before you go to all the trouble of trying to get the tuning right with 4 individual bodies. Fuel injection just works better.

Just my 2 pence.

Greg W.

[CR500Dom]

Hi Dom,
If I had a 10V 90, I would go with the 20VT motor now instead of later. The price for that motor is fairly cheap. With a standalone system, you would get a more reliable motor with the same or more HP than the NA with bodies. Something to think about before you go to all the trouble of trying to get the tuning right with 5 individual bodies. The breathing is a lot better on a 5 valve motor than it is on a 2 valve.

Just my 2 pence.

Greg W.

Cheers Greg,
The 20VT motor is still fetching a lot of money over here, wheras the NA is far more plentiful.
I see what you are saying power wise and you are right. The 20v NA on throttle bodies (Which I already have) and some port work should give around 170-180 while the 20VT should give 200 just with a standalone ECU and proper mapping, more with tweaking.
I want to lose the 10v Boat anchor (But it would be nice to keep the noise ) and a 4pot 20v would give more power and less weight, a 20vt would be even more power and less weight but a lot more cost

Decisions decisions
Cheers
Dom