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Coupe window mechanism adjusting shims

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  • Coupe window mechanism adjusting shims

    There is lots said about adjusting coupe door hinges and windows and how important it is to get it right to stop leaks and wind noise.

    I'm currently putting my car back together after paint and now face the task of adjusting the windows...

    I know the frame can slide around in the door but i don;'t think i have ever seen anywhere any advice on what to aim for with the adjusting shims? By shims; I mean the open ended rectangle washers that go under each bolt before tightening. The thickness adjusts the frame in and out of the door but what is the aim? Adjust it so it sweeps against the rubber trim on the top edge of the door shell? or pack it out so it is away from the rubber trim and more in contact with the seal in the body? Then there is the question of should it be the same all the way round and how do you know enough pressure on the seal is enough? I have been studying in slow mo how the doors shut and the glass actually seems to lift and tuck under the edge of the seal when the door is closed that last little bit, its difficult to know how much contact to give it to start with as the action of closing the door adds more.

    Any advice or pointers towards threads on here I've missed would be great


  • #2
    The adjusting shims are used to ensure that the vertical edge of the glass makes full contact across the entire length of the seal at the B pillar.
    You can mark the vertical edge of the glass with chalk, if the chalk is transferred evenly to the B pillar seal you have full contact, if not, you not to add or remove shims.

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    • #3
      ahh, that's interesting - so when it comes to shims i need to concentrate on the B pillar then. I suppose that makes sense as along the top horizontal edge and the run down to the bottom of the A pillar - the glass has the benefit of hooking under the lip in the seal. Will give it a go.

      I have just read that the glass itself is apparently adjustable in its clamp that holds it into the mechanism, HOW MANY DIFFERENT WAYS OF ADJUSTMENT?!!

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      • #4
        Yes, there is so much to adjust on these it can be a bit of a 'mare.
        It's always a good idea to mark the outline or position of things first if they are to be dismantled, that way you can return things as they were on reassembly.

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        • #5
          Your frustration is shared by many hundreds.

          ​​​​​​Even the Bentley book doesn't provide much clarity. Add the fact that over time these frame less doors are known to sag and you've got a real challenge getting things "lined up".

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          • #6
            Yes, the start point has to be 'get the doors sorted' first. And that is a whole different sticky thread!

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            • #7
              After fiddling around with door hinges all morning, I got the door to body line flush but try as i might the leading edge of the door is still 2-3mm low compared to the lines in the wing. Nothing seemed to work so i gave up because it is not inconceivable the car has had a bump before my ownership and the door may never line up. I did think about making the holes in the hinge oval where the fix to the door. Ovalise in up / down axis and then gain some adjustment... Anyway; here is what i tried for the glass adjustments this afternoon. Strips of paper trapped in the B pillar edge of the window shut - pull them out and feel if there is any difference in pressure between glass/rubber interface. There was a little less at the bottom but combinations of shims made no difference to it so i left it as it was still making a reasonable shove against the seal. What the strips of paper would tell you quite easily is if there was virtually no contact.

              Now it is a case of waiting until it rains and seeing what happens.

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