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  • #31
    What about struts, hubs etc.? I cleaned mine up at the beginning of the year and painted them with Plasticote Enamel which I've found to be quite good, better than Hammerite anyway but they ideally require something a little more hardcore to keep them in 1 piece for the rest of time. Is this POR15 a good plan?
    Cheers'en, AndyC

    K24 Racing - K24R Products

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    • #32
      Well this is what the blurb says...

      Whilst any paint will provide some degree of protection from rust for a while, no other is as permanent as POR-15. When others have chipped, scratched, flaked, and peeled, POR-15 will still be preventing rust. Available in black, silver, gray or clear, US pint or quart POR-15 can be sprayed or brushed on to provide a rock hard, yet flexible, non-porous coating that will not shrink, peel, or crack. It is totally resistant to road salt, petrol, battery acid, etc., and actually dries harder in humid damp conditions. Ideal for suspension and chassis protection, and you can apply a topcoat of any finishing paint. This is protection you can count on. Available in Pints and Quarts. Pint covers 4.5 square metres.
      85 WR Urquattro, 85 20vT International liveried RallyRep
      93 MTMS2 Avant

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      • #33
        Sorted Next Q, what paint to use over the top? SPray can based for ease of use of course...
        Cheers'en, AndyC

        K24 Racing - K24R Products

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        • #34
          I've never actually painted over it, but the blurb does say...

          and you can apply a topcoat of any finishing paint.

          It does dry to a smooth finish (as long as the under surface was smooth and the brush wasn't a broom).
          85 WR Urquattro, 85 20vT International liveried RallyRep
          93 MTMS2 Avant

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          • #35
            I had a go with the POR15 under the engine bay and wheel arches today. It was easy stuff to use, and didn't dry too quick. I prepared the surfaces with Metal Ready as advised, and I've got some Chassis Black to follow this up with. It's a lot better than the original finish on the underside of the chassis legs, grey primer.
            I'm not sure if I'll bother taking a hammer to the car to test how well it's bonded to it. I'll let the stones and gravel do that.
            Originally posted by GT500 View Post
            Best tip with POR is to after opening the tin, change to a coffee jar or something with a plastic lid, glass jar. I have not done this at first and the lid gets so sealed on with the paint you have to destroy the lid to get back in! its like its been welded on! Amazing stuff.
            I did this, as I had to wreck the tin lid to get into it. So I then used the original tin to contain the POR15 I wanted to use today.

            Originally posted by GT500 View Post
            if you get it on your skin its like a tatoo! there for weeks!
            Hmmm... Not good when you're working under your car and flick some in you face then. BTDT.
            SS

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            • #36
              Originally posted by 4WheelDrifter View Post

              Hmmm... Not good when you're working under your car and flick some in you face then. BTDT.

              Lol... I got some (don't ask) in my hair, shot indoors and frantically wiped with various dubious substances but it still looked like a really iffy hair loss camoflage (even though I've got a full head of hair).. So threw myself in a boiling shower with a gallon of shampoo... Fortunately, that did the trick, but it could have proved nasty.
              85 WR Urquattro, 85 20vT International liveried RallyRep
              93 MTMS2 Avant

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              • #37
                Thanx for sharing this information!

                A few questions, I can not fint the dinitrol 3125 product, so should I just use the 4941?
                I'm going to sand blast all rusty parts under my car (S4) such as drive axles, hubs, crossmembers, sway bar++. Would you use all the products you described applied in the given order for all of these parts, or do you use them differently depending on the use/which parts you treat?

                Can you explain the reason why you would apply the dinitrol on top of the bodysealer and the POR15, doesen't the POR15 and bodysealer protect enough against corrosion?

                Is my understanding correct if you apply the dinitrol on top of a painted surface?

                Best regards, Johan


                Originally posted by GT500 View Post
                This is my area of expertise.
                Stay away from any Hammerite products.

                Undercoat/primer should be POR15. frosts sell it.
                Then 3M bodysealer, comes in a bag, two part epoxy product, very similar to the OE Audi seam sealer. This can be painted body colour as Audis are originally. Then Dinitrol 3125 followed by Dinitrol 4941.
                I am in the restoration business and have seen and used this method for many years. it lasts for ever!

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                • #38
                  Hi Johan,
                  POR15 perfectley ok on rotating parts, the full system is for underside sheet metal.
                  Small don't., POR hates UV, ie can be left as is if not in sun light.
                  Rob..
                  94 RS2 Noggy,LHD,MTM map,18"cup 1s,245/35/18,Bilsteins,RS2 H&Rs,Cup splitter.
                  87 UR 20v ABY
                  97 S6 Avant
                  96 A6 C4 2.5 TDI quattro avant,Ming,Wietec/eibach,chipped
                  1967 Ford Mustang,Eleanor,460ci v8

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                  • #39
                    Q: Can I use for the underside of the car typical car paint primer and then POR 15?

                    Or: Metal primer POR 15 and then this POR 15 gloss paint? I have seen POR 15 sell a rubber spray. Does it protect against stone chips?

                    After that? Should I use this dinitrol?
                    Go Holset or Go RS4

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                    • #40
                      you should use the Metal Ready to etch the bare metal, then use POR15 as the base. Do 2 coats. Then use 2k body sealer, then dinitrol as suggested by Rob.
                      Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
                      Indigo ABY coupé
                      Imola B6 S4 Avant

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                      • #41
                        Nice. Any link for the 2 comp body sealer?
                        Go Holset or Go RS4

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by 4WheelDrifter View Post
                          What did Audi use originally? I know it's some sort of flexible stuff that wasn't stuck too well in places.
                          The whole underside of my S2 Avant is coated with this flexible stuff that has been overpainted with body colour. It's peeling in a few places and has let rust get a hold despite the galvanising. Am I better to remove as much as possible of this stuff before POR15ing the underside or should I just remove the loose bits? I don't really like the idea of the underside being an untidy patchwork mess.

                          Cheers

                          David
                          1994 16v Coupe - Sold on and sadly missed
                          1994 S2 Avant - Warmed up a bit
                          1995 A6 Avant - Dag Dag Delight

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by GT500 View Post
                            Then Dinitrol 3125 followed by Dinitrol 4941.
                            Silly Question Rob. 3125 is a cavity wax so are you spraying it all over the POR15 and seam sealed floor or just into the cavities before applying the 4941 over the top?

                            Cheers

                            David
                            1994 16v Coupe - Sold on and sadly missed
                            1994 S2 Avant - Warmed up a bit
                            1995 A6 Avant - Dag Dag Delight

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