Advice: touching up and applying lacquer

[simon44]

Hi,

This weekend I removed the front 't' panel in front of the aux rad as well as all the nuts and screws which had corroded along the top.

I rubbed down the rust patches and then used Bilt Hamber Deox Gel and the powder solution to remove the rust then used there primer, then applied touch up paint to these areas.

Coming to the lacquer I am planning to:

1. Light wet n dry using 1200 fine grade paper to touch up areas
2. Apply 2 coats of lacquer

Is this the right way?! Or do I apply the lacquer straight over the top?! As I was using a small brush to apply the paint there are a few paint stroke type marks.

Any advice appreciated!!

Cheers,


Simon

[Fat Audi 80]

If you are on about stone chips, I would NOT sand until you have the lacquer on.

Larger areas, I am not so sure, but would also suggest that only the lacquer should be sanded. Otherwise you risk sealing up wetsanding marks UNDER the laqcuer...

I am considering no laquer at all on the very small stone chips that I filled recently (2 - 5mm in dia)..

Just my 2 pence.

Cheers,

Steve.

[simon44]

Thanks Steve. I've been trying to tidy up the sill across the top of the headlights ie where the bonnet closes on to. (I think the 'T' shaped part is called the carrier). I've put a couple of coats of paint on the worst of the areas and plan to use the lacquer next. Its an area underneath the bonnet so for now is about killing all the rust and making it look a little better. In time I want to replace the parts.

How long should I leave between coats of lacquer or will one coat suffice?!

Over the years water has collected and been allowed to corrode (careless last owner who stored the car without cleaning it).

I am also considering replacing the nuts and bolts around this area to tidy up having been inspired by some of the pictiures of engine bays - any advice on sourcing these outside of Audi also appreciated!

Many thanks

Simon

[Fat Audi 80]

12 - 24 hours between coats depending on the temperature and humidity I would say.

Not sure on suppliers outside Audi for those items, but VAGparts.com are very helpful and will be more willing to find and source that type of thing than your main dealer will!

Yes, there is plenty of inspiration on the forum. I would also suggest (if you can live without the car) taking the fasterner off in batch and having them zinc plated (mild steel stuff) or acid dipped perhaps for stainless ones?...

Cheers,

Steve.

[Sonic]

When i was doing mine the layers of lacquer went on every 30 minutes, an hour after the paint had been applied.

This is because the paint is still slightly sticky and the lacquer bonds to it.

The lacquer was then left to dry over night, and job was a good-un

I would also recommend a higher grade paper, i used 2000 and still ended up going over that with 3000 to make the polishing a lot easier.

[simon44]

Hi, many thanks. All good advice!

Last night in haste to finish I applied two coats within the space of an hour to try and get a better/more solid consistency (the primer was showing through).

So, having cycled to work (!) I am leaving early to finish the job. Would you recommend a light 3000 wet n dry followed by one more paint coat and then one coat of lacquer an hour afterwards?

Or should I go straight for a top coat lacquer on the dry paint from last night?!

Thanks guys

[Sonic]

I think you'll be ok going straight on with the lacquer, but it depends how much time you want to spend!

You also dont want the paint to thick.

I wrote some tips up here - http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showpos...6&postcount=11

Cheers

[S2central.net]

Ahh yes the lock carrier... In a moment of weakness I bought a brand new one and all the shiny new bits and bobs to replenish the fairly crusty looking appearance I have in this department. I was going to be radical and have it painted satin / semi-gloss black but its one of those back-burner jobs.

I dunno whether to use some sort of lacquer on a new painted lock carrier - seems like a good way to protect the paint finish, but there is danger of it cracking when the various bolts and fixtures are re-attached.

Maybe some of that really tough satin black chassis paint is the right answer... Can't remember its name but GT500 raved about it more than once on some restorations that he worked on.

[simon44]

Great - many thanks to all. I now need to fake a bit of an illness so that I can go home early today to crack on with it while the weather is fine!

'Boss, I dont feel well...'

[Sonic]

... and if you do, drop me a PM so i can remove your last post

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32819