Problem with removing rear RS2 bumper skin

[EspenW]

Got rear ended at exceedingly low speed a couple of weeks back. Damage estimate was approx. £1500, and I had the option of having a body shop do the fix, or pocket the money. I chose the latter, as I have some experience doing body work, got spraying equipment, etc.
Pretty much no sheet metal damage, but the rear bumber cover got some cracks.
The bumber came off easily, but I want to remove the cover from the rebar/bumber reinforcment, so that I can access the damage from the backside and do some plastic welding. Problem is that I can't see how the reinforment comes off. There were 4 screws at the bottom, but still firmly stuck.
Any ideas?

[jade]

Got rear ended at exceedingly low speed a couple of weeks back. Damage estimate was approx. £1500, and I had the option of having a body shop do the fix, or pocket the money. I chose the latter, as I have some experience doing body work, got spraying equipment, etc.
Pretty much no sheet metal damage, but the rear bumber cover got some cracks.
The bumber came off easily, but I want to remove the cover from the rebar/bumber reinforcment, so that I can access the damage from the backside and do some plastic welding. Problem is that I can't see how the reinforment comes off. There were 4 screws at the bottom, but still firmly stuck.
Any ideas?

It's has rivets cannot see how you can miss them, I am looking at one now looks straight forward I count about 20 rivets that will need drilling out

[EspenW]

Yup, noticed the rivets, but it seems that all they do is to hold the two pieces of the rebar/reinfocrment together. The rivets are riveted from the other (hidden) side, meaning that they were attached before the rebar was fastened to the bumper skin.

[Drummer87]

It's glued along the seams at the top

[EspenW]

It's glued along the seams at the top

Alrighty, had a feeling it was glued.
Have you tried to open it?

Will get the Stanley knife and/or sawblade out.

[Drummer87]

Tried to take the reinforcement off, tried the rivets but they are holding the two pieces together. And the bottom few screws don't do anything. All the pulling and prying made no difference. You could cut it out with a jigsaw. Stanley knife would take forever.

Why you needing it out??

[Drummer87]

And the bottom screws were the same for me like solid. Use some heat on them.

[EspenW]

Yeah, the bottom ones were pretty rusted, but got them off. Need to get the reinforcment off since it obstructs the backside of the cracks that I need to fix.
Want to do most of the plastic welding from the backside, and would like to glue on some mesh on the backside of the cracks as well.
Pretty silly that this thing is glued on. Fixing plastic fenders is pretty common practice now, but not easy on this one. Guess audi wanted to sell new £ 1900 bumpers instead of body shops fixing them..

[Drummer87]

It will fix, just cut away the enforcement neatly, then weld back simples.

[EspenW]

Sounds like a plan

[Drummer87]

You will see that a few parts slot under the sill and rest is kinda lose. It will work out but take your time.

[EspenW]

Found that the major crack was right where the right side bracket sits, so I can access the backside of that one without removing the reinforcement. The other cracks will be welded from the front, will take some additional smoothing and sanding, but that is minor compared to cutting the reinforcement out.
The bumper is Polypropylene (PP) so I use black zipties as welding rod. Works like a charm. Quick, easy and the repair seems very strong. Fun stuff. The rest of the repair will be routine, plastic primer, flexible filler, paint, etc.
The bumper had a crack that was professionally repaired before I got the car back in the day. That crack opened up a bit when I removed the bumper (need to bend it somewhat to clear the brackets on the sides). I'll fix that crack properly meself