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Splitting RS2 Mirrors

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  • Splitting RS2 Mirrors

    Hi All,

    My RS2 is going for a little cosmetic restoration next week. I need to split the mirror and mirror base. I've read where people have said to mask it and leave it together, but I'm not happy to do that. The mirrors are well stripped all ready, but I was hoping someone could tell me how to release the wiring loom through the pivot. Here's the plug/socket I'm struggling with. There seems to be a white tung in the red part. Here's the photos:

    Thanks in advance

  • #2
    You need to cut the wiring first as shown below. Then using a bolt etc push up from below to compress the spring and then turn the top half to release it from the bottom.


    • #3
      Thanks for the pic. Interesting.

      Cutting the wiring is a little more extreme than I'd hoped for. I wondered if that red part of the socket releases from the white part and allows the wiring to be extracted through the mirror side?


      • #4
        Just looked at the plugs and can't see how you get them apart. Also they're 18 years old so fairly fragile. Wouldn't recommend that route


        • #5
          David, from the picture you posted it looks to me like the red inset holding the pins can be separated from the plug shell by carefully inserting a 3 or 4mm flat blade screwdriver onto the tang then pull gently pull the raised red tab to lift out the red disc holding the pins.

          Then you should be able to pull the pins out from the rear, making careful note of the pin configuration beforehand of course.

          That's how I'd tackle it anyway. I hope that it's of some help to you.

          edit: Better still, use a pair of needle nose pliers on the centre pin to lift out the disc.
          That way your avoid pulling on some fragile plastic and potentially breaking it.


          • #6
            I looked at dismantling mine, but decided the risk of damaging them was too high, so I left them in one piece. So I'm sorry I can't help.
            I was interested to find that the mirror housings are plastic, but the bases are aluminium.


            • #7
              Made some progress. The red pin guide comes out of the base side:

              Which means the pins can be removed from the mirror side:

              So far so good and no wire cutters in sight! It turns out that the connectors are all 993 parts and can be replaced if they got broken. Unfortunately it seems that the white pin holder is fixed into the pivot somehow. I wanted to remove it so I could use the bolt up technique to free the pivot pin, but I've got a feeling it's shouldered into the fitting. I've since found by using a socket in the vice I can (hopefully!) compress the spring and rotate the parts free. That'll be tomorrows job I'll let you know how it goes. If it comes apart properly I'll do a how to, as I can't find any info for this anywhere.



              • #8

                I had mine apart and the white plug will push out from behind...

                It is a surprisingly big spring behind the washer. When I got the plug out I found that there is space for a hex key (a big one) which makes removing the washer easier... it was very fiddly to get it back together...

                Etched primer is the best for the mirror base, especially the exposed edges..

                Good luck..



                • #9
                  Hi Paul,

                  What did you use to push the plug out? There's not much room in there.



                  • #10
                    Success, it's done. Pics to follow. Thanks for everyone's input


                    • #11
                      Great stuff !
                      Looking forward to some pics as I have to do mine in a few weeks.
                      I was going to mask up what I couldn't remove but this way will result in much better results
                      For what this cost me so far I could have bought an S2


                      • #12
                        Well done, David.
                        I'll tackle a lot of jobs on the car, but I still think I would be nervous pulling the mirrors apart. Maybe I'll see when you get yours back together.

                        Looking back I painted my mirrors in this position.

                        The one on the left is not finished in the photo.


                        • #13
                          I have also got to swap one bases on my drivers side mirror as currently it's a LHD base!
                          I have always put it off as the mirror glass was about £80 last time I bought one new.
                          Audi Nut!!!


                          • #14
                            Right, lets take this from the top. This is going to be very picture heavy, but a picture tells a thousand words:

                            Removal from the car. There are two screw locating the mirror base to the bracket in the door. If you have an unmolested original (like mine haha) there will be tiny black plastic covers on the hex heads. 4mm allen key here:

                            Once free from the door you can pull the electrical socket which attaches to the mirror pivot here:

                            Now it's free from the car, it's time to get down to business. First thing out is the mirror glass. Under the mirror is an access hole here:

                            Inside this access hole are 4 teeth of the lock ring. Visible here:

                            Insert a small flat bladed screw driver with the blade parallel and rotate the lock ring anti clockwise, you can count the teeth across if you're careful:

                            Once the lock ring is released you can carefully pull the mirror from the motor. If it doesn't come free with your fingers you haven't released the lock ring. If you force it you'll break it so take your time and get a feel for that lock ring. I undid it and locked it up again a couple of time until I was happy it was definitely undone:

                            Once the mirror is free, you'll need to unclip the wires for the heating element:

                            That's the mirror free. Notice the 4 pins where the ears locate on the motor, this is in the unlocked position:

                            You can see what the lock ring does in the locked position:

                            Which locates on these motor ears:

                            Next is to remove the motor by undoing these three long screws:

                            The wiring is neatly wrapped around the bracket:

                            So you've got to remove the magnesium frame from the cowling, these three screws first:

                            Followed by this one underneath the mirror base:

                            Now the frame and motor are loose. It's time to unhook the wiring loom. Going back to the electrical socket in the pivot, you need a very fine screwdriver or terminal tool. I only had a screw driver, but it's possible. Release the red pin holder by pushing the white plastic tongue and very gently pull the red tongue with needle nose pliers to extract:

                            This is what we're left with:

                            Using the same screwdriver it's possible the extract each pin at a time. I start with the centre one as it gives more access to get the others. It helps if you get hold of each wire at a time to give a gentle tug from the back. First wire is black:

                            Each pin in the socket has a number, this is how that corresponds:

                            Number 1 - White motor
                            Number 2 - Brown heater
                            Number 3 - Blue motor
                            Number 4 - Brown heater
                            Number 5 - Red motor
                            Number 6 - Black motor

                            I'll post a pin guide when I get a mo.

                            So here we are, the flesh coloured grommet will come out with the last wire:

                            Now that just leaves us with the white socket in the pivot. This was a PITA until I realised how it worked. It needs to be pushed from the back, but there's an access problem because of the shape of the mirror. I happened to have this piece of plastic which worked perfectly. Thin at one end and a bit more robust at the other:

                            I popped it down into the pivot from the mirror end which looked like this and gives you something to push against. Don't be shy give it a proper push and it'll pop out:

                            The offending item:

                            This is why you need to be a little careful. These two tangs could be damaged:

                            And luckily where the plastic tube sits:

                            Next is a bit of a backward step. I think it's necessary to re-attach the magnesium alloy frame to the cowling as it need a bit of umph. When the white plug was extracted you might have noticed that there is a fitting to take a 14mm hex driver:

                            The problem is you can't just rotate it because it locks into the magnesium frame and you'll brake it. You have to compress the (massive!) spring in the pivot. The 911 guys make a spring compressor out of nuts, bolts and washers which a google search will provide. Another method is to lock the tool in the vise and get some weight behind it. I ended up using both as my 14 stone mass wouldn't shift it until i'd squeezed up and down a couple of times using this, my spring compressor next to the removed spring:

                            You'll probably find that the lithium grease used in manufacture has turned into something that looks more like plaster and makes everything harder. I used the spring compressor to loosen it off and the use the 14mm hex tool on an extension like this:

                            But in the vise like this with the mirror on the top:


                            Here's the frame removed. This high lip is what the three finger pivot needs to clear. Get this wrong and you'll brake off that raised edge.

                            Job done:

                            It goes without saying, stay organised. Do one mirror at a time and use a re-sealable bag to place all the handed parts together. If you muddle the sides up you might get some interesting adjustments. Obviously this is just a guide. I don't take any responsibility if you're cack handed and brake your mirrors, please follow the guide at your own risk.


                            • #15
                              Well done, a great how to guide that should be made a "sticky" to make it easy for others to find in the future.