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Manual brakes, no bomb or booster

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  • Manual brakes, no bomb or booster

    so i ditched all help for the brakes on the drag chassis. just like on the drag rabbit, just a master cylinder. no bomb, no hydro assist, no booster. nothing. nada. zip.

    see, the aftermarket companies make pedal and MC stuff, kits, with no booster, hydro, etc. the car still stops fine, just a little more effort has to be put into the pedal.... and its fine, because it is only going straight. and a MC is a MC....

    so i pulled the pedal cluster. much easier on this car than the rabbit, that one kicked my *** but good. also something about working on a car with a cage i seem to remember

    so pull pedal cluster.
    remove hydro assist part.
    remove bracket.
    measure it up.
    make a plate to mount the MC to the bracket.
    drill for MC.
    weld backup nuts onto the plate.
    weld plate to bracket.
    many test fits in between, BTW.
    measure up for rod, find out the other rod from the rabbit is too short. find something.

    today, while at the wreckers looking for a bracket to do this mod with, i found many OEM bolts. one happened to be an 02A starter bolt. hmmmm, whadya know, same thread pattern as the plunger rod. and the required distance longer

    cut bolt head off, test fit/measure up.
    make a jam-nut for the MC, weld it to new rod.
    install rod into clevis for pedal, and adjust.

    VIOLA!!!!! manual brakes in under 1.5 hrs.

    :woowoo:

    i have progress pix, but the paint is drying on the bracket i made, so i will post up a picture later of it all installed. gotta love making room under there








    p















    EDIT: and the finished product. MMmmmmmmm. look at all the space in there. lets see. Fuelab FPR. Wilwood rear brake proportioning valve. possibly the custom radiator overflow bottle. possibilities have been improved greatly with the additional room







    and tested out, i can stop by the first cutout at the dragstrip after running 141 mph in 9.90 seconds. and i dont even need to go to the end of the track. i am still on OEM Girling 60 CQ brakes, with D/S rotors. and cheapo pads, too. nothing fancy. i am going to work on some 993 fronts here shortly as i have those parts around. pedal effort is more, but you have no help. this is just purely a preference thing here, it wont be for most people.

  • #2
    Originally posted by speeding-g60 View Post
    so i ditched all help for the brakes on the drag chassis. just like on the drag rabbit, just a master cylinder. no bomb, no hydro assist, no booster. nothing. nada. zip. See, the aftermarket companies make pedal and MC stuff, kits, with no booster, hydro, etc. the car still stops fine, just a little more effort has to be put into the pedal.... and its fine, because it is only going straight. and a MC is a MC....
    I am old enough to remember the days before power steering and power brakes. My first car, a 1955 Dodge had neither and my second car, a 1968 Plymouth also had neither. It took a lot of arm power ("Armstrong" steering) to turn the wheels and a well-muscled leg to step on the brakes to the point that something happened (this was with drum brakes all around too). Power steering and power brakes were luxury options, typically marketed to the "fairer sex" for many years before manufacturers decided to make them standard.

    Interesting conversion you are doing. I hope the benefits (less weight?) work out.
    RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
    94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant

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    • #3
      this was an old thing i did.... just adding stuff to this new fabrication forum. clearer space is more why i did this....

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