Removing radiator to the rear
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speak to the pro stock car guys. its mandatory for those i believe.Leave a comment:
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Yes,
I have all the parts i need.
I have hard lines running the length of the car in side from the front fire wall they then go to -16AN fittings to go the flexi distance and the same in the engine bay.
I have a large electric water pump from CSR which pumps 137 Gallons a minute! Also a box of tricks to use a speed controller so i can heat the engine up on start up.
I have a Large rear rad with twin 10" fans controlled from my ecu.Leave a comment:
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I guess he did but never heard from him. Will post some pictures in a few weeks alex i am enjoying driving it at the moment so dont want to rip it to bits again.
Also a big thanks for brain storming with Jay and Hamish!Leave a comment:
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With thanks to Repo and Aelred i have started to build my set up.
I have the rad and mandrel bent aluminum hard pipe in 1" with a 130 lt per minute pump with a vairible speed controler also a aluminum tank for the expansion/overflow. Tatech will control the fans in the rear. These will be a bank of two 12 or 14" fans.Leave a comment:
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Removing radiator to the rear
I have a few questions to any one on here that has removed there radiator to the rear of the car.
I have seen the set up at the Good Will Garage but forgot to ask some important questions....
What size I.D lines do you use -12AN 3/4 -16AN 1" -20AN 1.1/4" or larger still?
Do you remove the thermo stat and use the electric pump to control the temperature?
Do you remove the water pump pulley drive or keep it to aid cooling?
Did you add any extra cooling to the radiator in the rear?
Cheers JamesTags: None

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