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I had talk with a man in exhaust shop about makin 3" DP for my Urs6; he said he can do it, but sugested that he take top section of original DP, and make 3" only down from "V" where main and wastegate pipes meet, since (his words) there is anyway no use on 3" above that because of smaller flange.
that should be o.k.
a full 3" would always be better,but not alot difference.this way atleast you don't have the complication of trying to fabricate the whole head.it time consuming and very hard bit to get right.i spend many many hours on just wastegate and flange and made loads of mistake's before i got it right.i was lucky,i had a spare engine to work with and to get the turbo flange and wastegate right,i had to bolt the piece's on the engine before welding.
[SIGPIC][SIGPIC]/SIGPIC]92 3B pearl white=gone back home to Germany,probably in bits and pieces
that should be o.k.
a full 3" would always be better,but not alot difference.this way atleast you don't have the complication of trying to fabricate the whole head.it time consuming and very hard bit to get right.i spend many many hours on just wastegate and flange and made loads of mistake's before i got it right.i was lucky,i had a spare engine to work with and to get the turbo flange and wastegate right,i had to bolt the piece's on the engine before welding.
There is a LOT of difference, the stock downpipe isn't even true 2.5"
There is a LOT of difference, the stock downpipe isn't even true 2.5"
Ask Rusty
If your getting a downpipe get it made right
yes i know,but this way is alot easier than going through the trouble making a full one.
i'm not saying he should not bother making a full 3".
he asked a question and so i'm trying to suggest how he should go about doing it
[SIGPIC][SIGPIC]/SIGPIC]92 3B pearl white=gone back home to Germany,probably in bits and pieces
The top part has some nasty restrictions in it (if it's the same as the S2). You can use it if keeping a k24 7000 on the car but I'd want to go to full custom above this as there is quite a difference in area and the OE one infringes on the exhaust gas flow - not ideal at that point!
Going 3" straight away isn't going to make a massive difference for lower power but if you're planning going beyond RS2 then make sure that you do it right first time, don't want to find out the hard way and it's not much extra effort.
You use a conical section from the turbo flange to 3" for the first bend. Mine has 2.5" first bend because I didn't specify this properly, fine for what I use it for now or RS2...
Also, make sure that the WG joins at an angle so that it's heading in the right direction, no point joining at right angles. I've thought about running the WG pipe down to the second bend and joining on the outside of the bend to aid the gas direction change. Complex but it could make a small difference...
Cheers'en, AndyC
1994 ABY Coupe - Projekt Alpinweiss
yes i know,but this way is alot easier than going through the trouble making a full one.
i'm not saying he should not bother making a full 3".
he asked a question and so i'm trying to suggest how he should go about doing it
It's not a suggestion that should be made, the stock part is highly restrictive even on stock bhp.
Ps. the weldings in the first post pic is quite... speechless.
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