You can change the style the forum displays by selecting your preferred style at the bottom left of the site.
We have made an enhancement so that old threads should now link from search results to the correct thread. This is not yet in place for single post links
yes its odd as everything started the min i pulled out of the exhaust place and give it its first drive to listen to the sound and then is car misfired and cut out till revs dropped then kicked back in,
would fitting a boost tap help me? as i have 2 of them in a drawer somewhere
An easy way to test the wastegate is to get a piece of hose and connect it from the inlet manifold where the dump valve is normally connected and directly to the waste gate. This will have the same result as what newsh is saying but without having to reach the N75 .
If you do this just be aware that normal rubber hose won't stand the heat for long at the wastegate
connection thus this is a temporary test set up only. The normal hose to the waste gate is very high temp
stuff.
The normal thing to happen when the N75 is dead is that it opens the line from the turbo to the wastegate, the same as what happens when you unplug it.
This makes me think even more that it is not connected correctly.
You could have a bad wastegate diaphragm but what are the chances of this happening just after
people have been working on your car.
no i need to find a piece of hose and today i dont think ill get chance to do the test, i just going to see if my n75 is on wrong after seeing a pic of one and mine looks upside down to the pic if you get me
n75 is plumbed in correctly, bottom to turbo, short pipe to wagegate and the longer pipe to the intake piping, i was hoping it was the wrong way around so it may have been fixed now but nah lol
just cut a piece out of a ball point pen so you have a short tube and join the hose from the turbo to the hose from the waste gate waste gate to do the test.
I HAVE CURED THE PROBLEM WAAAHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!
it was annoying me and i thought ive only had an exhaust fitted and the only things to move was the air box, so i disconnected the battery, took off the maf sensor, i used some contact cleaner on the maf sensor plug, fitted it all back together, put the battery back on and its back to life, its running at 23psi with no flutter or spikes now im over the moon and not long until my rs2 injectors, map sensor and chip are ready oh happy days
thanks to everybody who tried to help me on this issue it was you guys that kept me on the mechanical track and not wait for a remap not to fix nothing, so thank you once again
We process personal data about users of our site, through the use of cookies and other technologies, to deliver our services, personalize advertising, and to analyze site activity. We may share certain information about our users with our advertising and analytics partners. For additional details, refer to our Privacy Policy.
By clicking "I AGREE" below, you agree to our Privacy Policy and our personal data processing and cookie practices as described therein. You also acknowledge that this forum may be hosted outside your country and you consent to the collection, storage, and processing of your data in the country where this forum is hosted.
Comment