Help! Ignition Switch problems!

[panzerwagen]

I've read all archive posts on doing this job and still have questions!
1/ What is the part called "D" piece? I'm confused as to what it is referring too?
2/ My key makes contact and turns the starter on but it seems that it does not spring back to dis-enegage the starter. Is there a spring broken inside? When I manually turn it a little to the left I can hear the starter disengage.
3/ When removing the entire switch assembly, do you have to remove the shroud around the steering wheel, the instrument pod and the knee bolster under the steering wheel to get some kind ofaccess to the assmbly?.
4/ Can the so-called torx bolt be seen from the top or does one need to squirm under the dashboard to get at it?

[PeterS]

Marc:

Yes to all LOL

2- sounds like the switch is broken ( it has the return spring)

I've done two type 44s, but they are basically the same as the B3/B4s...

You need to remove just about everything to access the loctited screws that hold the ignition switch to the cylinder housing - but you should NOT have to remove the ignition cylinder housing from the steering column (the torx bolt) - You would only have to do that if the damage was so severe that it required replacement of the lock cylinder assembly.

...BTDT - had it fail on the wagon on the way home from the hospital with newborn #2 son, postpartum wife was NOT amused.

[iain1067]

Common problem if you have a heavy bunch of keys hanging off it

[panzerwagen]

Peter thanks! LOL !

Man I'll bet your wife wanted too gut the car like a fish that day!

[PeterS]

After she vented, and I got her and the baby home, the flatbed dropped off the car, things cooled down...The next day I pulled the steering column out and removed the broken ignition lock cylinder (have to drill per the manual to access a release spring to get the cylinder out of the housing) got a replacement cylinder and switch, had the replacement cylinder rekeyed to match the existing key, things got even more interesting...

She sheepishly admitted...
"Err honey, if forgot to tell you a week ago that it was getting difficult to put the key in the ignition, and some metal filings came out with the key..."

BTW, if your key is worn it will also prematurely wear out your ignition lock cylinder...
When we purchased the wagon, it only came with duplicate keys...I eventually was able to get a new master key from audi by getting the code off the lock cylinder, then had new copies made from that master...scary how worn the old keys were...

[Andy M]

I had a similar problem, but the D piece had broken on mine and ruined the switch.

The D-piece is on the end of the lock assembly and engages the switch.

If it's only your switch which has gone it may be possible to access the two switch retaining screws from underneath, or by reaching the screwdriver around the barrel.

Perhaps someone can confirm this? It's certainly easier just to take the shelf from under the steering wheel to try it, rather than to take gauges out etc...

They are the two red blobs at the top of this picture (from another thread) and you can pull the switch out from there.

HTH,

Andy

[panzerwagen]

The return spring on mine has either failed or is ......

stuck. Which ever, the key is not returning back to the start position after the engine has started. My Starter is still engaged.

[PeterS]

Marc:

Buy an extra ignition switch...

Remove the shelf/kick panel and pull the harness out of the back of the switch.

Plug in the new switch - use the ignition key to unlock the steering wheel until you get around to pulling it all apart

- use a key or screwdriver to turn the new ignition switch to start, internal spring will pull it back to on position.

Ugly, but it might save your starter in the meantime