Sticking speedo?

[Greenm3]

If your fuel gauge does not go to empty it probably needs calibrated, i re calibrated mine from the info on S2 central.net, i'm sure thats where i got the info from. It's not complicated and also helps me not to run out of fuel as i set mine so when it registers empty ive actually got about 5-10litres left (not much in these cars!) I always ignore the computer cause its about as accurate as waving a stick to tell the weather!

[WabTheKing]

Mine speedo also failed yesterday, isnt moving at all, also the BC gives strange output. I think it is my speed sensor. The advantage is that I can finally slide threw corners, because the quattro system stays disabled above 15 mph, and I only have rear drive.

should be pretty cool if you can put a switch between the speed sensor so you can shut him on and off.

you can snip into a wire to do this, think its the blue and white one, but dont quote me on that!!

[Erikb]

Got in my car in the morning, started it, drove away and speedo was working again. Strange cars.

[QuattroFever]

@martynf

was cruising down the road the yesterday and noticed my speedo going up and down between 30 and 20 whilst doing a steady 30 (using road angel) and occasionally would go right down and rest at 0 until I put my foot down a little!!!

sorted itself out after a while yest. but now it's doing it again today.

Spoke to audi they seemed certain it's the speedo voltage reg. only £9.95.

Just the fitting! At £120hr I can feel a DIY coming on!!!

[s2driveruk]

guys, i had a sticking speedo for ages and it was doing my head in to say the least. I changed the gearbox sender with no change but I was convinced it was the speedo itself. I then decided to pull the binnacle out just incase i hadn't spotted the peeling faces and guess what - thats exactly what it was..... Looking at the dials from the drivers seat they all looked ok but removing them showed that the speedo face had lifted and was touching the back of the needle centre. Just use a stanley knife and cut away the offending area and it'll be fine. I did it again at Greg's meet back in february and i really took off everything I thought could possibly touch it - been fine ever since. I also did Ross's - can you confirm yours has been fine since then too???

Its dead easy to check - essentially remove the cowling round the back of the steering wheel (two screws, remove from the lower half of the cowling, thenlift the top piece up from just behind the steering wheel, the rear end will detach from the lugs in the binnacle).

Then remove the two screws jholding the binnacle to the dash and disconnect the horn (top dead centre - you cant miss it!)

then puss in and twist the centre of the wheel (for the horn) left and it should then release.

Use a 24mm socket to remove the bolt and washer holding the steering wheel on (noting the position before removal - just ensure the wheel is straight and you'll be fine)

grab hold of the plastic 'oval' shape moulding on the bottom centre of the binnacle and pull forwards and upwards and it should suddenly come free

work from left to right (as u look at the binnacle) and disconnect the coloured connectors - to remove you might need a flat head screwdriver to free the U shaped retainer on the back of each connector - once done turn the binnacle over and you will see either star head or hex head screws - remove all the ones you can see

Disconnect the two wire connector which runs to the speedo side of the rear of the binnacle

You should then be able to wriggle the trip computer (black plastic in the back centre and over the rev counter side) away from the main unit.

remove the remainder of the screws and you should then be able to lift the unit away from the front of the plastic cover/,moulding - careful as its a bit floppy - hopefully you will leave the 4 adjujstment knobs in situ (for brightness, speed setting and mileometer reset and fuel tank calibration in their respective holes.

Now, turn the whole unit over so you can see the front of the speedo and all other guages and get down level with the and look across so u can see the underside of the speedo dial centre - you should immediately see the offending little area of lifted speedo face. Grab ur knife and cut it right back so its flush with the face again.

Refit is reverse of removal - remember if you have any bulbs out - change them while i have access, they just twist out.

Good luck!

Cheers
David

[dan_b]

@David - hey do you fancy helping me out with that lot - I notice you said "it's easy" then you proceed to post one of the longest posts I've seen on here in a long time!

Mine is still doing it - a firm tap will usually free it up but it's clearly getting stuck somehwere. The rev counter seems to be acting a bit wierd now too, so I would imagine the same thing is happening there as well.

Love old cars

[s2driveruk]

yeah no worries Dan will take 25 mins I'd think - pm me and we can arrange something I'm sure

hmmm was a bit wordy wasnt it - i was just hacking away didn't preview before posting, hence the mass of smelling pistakes!

[dan_b]

@David - you're on!

[Markarina]

@martynf

was cruising down the road the yesterday and noticed my speedo going up and down between 30 and 20 whilst doing a steady 30 (using road angel) and occasionally would go right down and rest at 0 until I put my foot down a little!!!

sorted itself out after a while yest. but now it's doing it again today.

Spoke to audi they seemed certain it's the speedo voltage reg. only £9.95.

Just the fitting! At £120hr I can feel a DIY coming on!!!

£120/hr the worst I've had a stealer charge me is £65/hr, I know a couple of good independant audi specialist garages localish to me whose rates are £40-45/hr

[s2driveruk]

my local stealer is £100+vat - considering they seem to know less than a trusted mechanic i have no idea how they get away with charging that...boarderline criminal - my a6 escapades are proof enough of that..!

[mcandmar]

There is an issue with the contacts on the back of the speedo getting dirty, theres 3 or 4 that stick out of the back and connect through the circuit board. Clean them up and away you go. I had that problem with two cars and it cured both. I did put a how to post somewhere, couldnt be bothered searching for it.

Mark.

[4WheelDrifter]

btw, you don't need to remove the steering wheel to get the instruments out. Just slide them out between the back of the steering wheel and the dashboard.

[s2driveruk]

blimey never thought there'd be enough space but.....

[s2dude]

guys, i had a sticking speedo for ages and it was doing my head in to say the least. I changed the gearbox sender with no change but I was convinced it was the speedo itself. I then decided to pull the binnacle out just incase i hadn't spotted the peeling faces and guess what - thats exactly what it was..... Looking at the dials from the drivers seat they all looked ok but removing them showed that the speedo face had lifted and was touching the back of the needle centre. Just use a stanley knife and cut away the offending area and it'll be fine. I did it again at Greg's meet back in february and i really took off everything I thought could possibly touch it - been fine ever since. I also did Ross's - can you confirm yours has been fine since then too???

Its dead easy to check - essentially remove the cowling round the back of the steering wheel (two screws, remove from the lower half of the cowling, thenlift the top piece up from just behind the steering wheel, the rear end will detach from the lugs in the binnacle).

Then remove the two screws jholding the binnacle to the dash and disconnect the horn (top dead centre - you cant miss it!)

then puss in and twist the centre of the wheel (for the horn) left and it should then release.

Use a 24mm socket to remove the bolt and washer holding the steering wheel on (noting the position before removal - just ensure the wheel is straight and you'll be fine)

grab hold of the plastic 'oval' shape moulding on the bottom centre of the binnacle and pull forwards and upwards and it should suddenly come free

work from left to right (as u look at the binnacle) and disconnect the coloured connectors - to remove you might need a flat head screwdriver to free the U shaped retainer on the back of each connector - once done turn the binnacle over and you will see either star head or hex head screws - remove all the ones you can see

Disconnect the two wire connector which runs to the speedo side of the rear of the binnacle

You should then be able to wriggle the trip computer (black plastic in the back centre and over the rev counter side) away from the main unit.

remove the remainder of the screws and you should then be able to lift the unit away from the front of the plastic cover/,moulding - careful as its a bit floppy - hopefully you will leave the 4 adjujstment knobs in situ (for brightness, speed setting and mileometer reset and fuel tank calibration in their respective holes.

Now, turn the whole unit over so you can see the front of the speedo and all other guages and get down level with the and look across so u can see the underside of the speedo dial centre - you should immediately see the offending little area of lifted speedo face. Grab ur knife and cut it right back so its flush with the face again.

Refit is reverse of removal - remember if you have any bulbs out - change them while i have access, they just twist out.

Good luck!

Cheers
David

Ive got this sticking speedo problem...
After removing the binnacle am I right in thinking you completely removed the speedo by pulling it out from the plastic case after all screws were out?/

I tried this and there is still "something" catching on the opposite side of the cluster that stops it from being pulled out?? (AFTER I had removed all 15 or so visible screws)
I dont wanna bust it!!! but cant see there being enough room to slice with a knife unless the speedo is totally removed??

Can anyone confirm this method please? (removing the entire speedo....and if so.....wheres the hidden screws!)

[4WheelDrifter]

Have you removed the Autocheck/Trip Computer unit from the back of the cluster?