In my case, what I wanted to do was to transfer the OE speakers from the UrS4 V8 avant rear door cards to 94 100 rear door cards so I could still have a functioning stereo system while I re and re the cloth on the UrS4 door cards (likely to take me weeks - not a high priority). You might want to do this because you found some very nice speakerless door cards but you have an avant or later UrS6 sedan with speakers in the door.
So here was the starting point yesterday afternoon. As you can see the obvious tasks are removing the speakers and foam block from the UrS4 rear door panel, removing the foam block from the 94 100 panel and cutting the appropriate holes. It is really that easy and doesn't really need a DIY. But you know me, can't let any task remain undocumented, however trivial it might seem.
Here is the UrS4 rear door panel showing some of the details:
Here are the details on the tweeter:
Here are the bass speaker details (don't know why I can't say "woofer" (?!)). (NOTE: The metal clips that seem to hold the foam to the door. Easily removed with pliers - foam is glued to the door card so more work is needed to remove them):
Okay, first step is removing the foam "impact padding" blocks (must be something to do with side-impact intrusion prevention (??)). Remove those circular metal clips (pull up while twisting a bit) and then using a putty knife and/or flexible steak knife (don't tell my wife - it wasn't one of the good ones - and it was not harmed in any way)
Here is the UrS4 door card with the foam block removed It was relatively easy, including removing that wierd aluminum sticky tape:
Next up, removal of the foam impact padding block from the C4 100 panel. This was a beotch and was the biggest time consumer on this very easy procedure. I started with a 1" putty knife and, even knowing where the glue might be, it wasn't enough. Had to bring out the aforementioned steak knife to poke between the hard plastic and the foam (I tried very hard not to damage the foam in this process). Eventually, I could pry the block away from the panel enough to actually see the glue holding the foam to the panel. Then I just sawed away with the serated edge of the steak knife to slowly slowly get throught the glue (must be a Urethane glue like "Gorilla Glue"(tm)). Nasty stuff. Eventually, the foam block came off.
As you might see, I wasn't completely successful with not leaving and foam behind (there was some). Plus the residual glue was awful. I decided to remove it. At first I tried GOOF-OFF(tm). Must be high in Toluene because although it did soften the glue and residual foam, it also started to eat the plastic of the door card. Okay. Stop that. Switched to good old solvent. Worked slower but it didn't eat the plastic.
Here is that door panel, now free of residual glue and foam, showing how the factory pre-marked the panel for the location of the factory tweeter and bass speakers (NOTE: the "Gotcha")
The next step was to cut-out the holes for the UrS4 Avant speakers in the the C4 100 door card, following the pre-marked outlines. I saw a DIY somewhere where the prepetrator used a drill to drill a million holes along the inside the edge of the pre-marked guide and then a knife and/or file to finalize the hole cutting. I say "Fk that". Dremel with RotoZip bit. Piece of cake. Drill appropriate pilot holes and then use the RotoZip/Dremel. My "Gotcha" was I didn't think the pilot hole drilling enough for the bottom-most post on the bass speaker hole. I knicked the edge of the door panel storage cubby. Fixable (a bit of superglue) but easily preventable if you think more before doing (Duh). Live and learn. Too soon old, too late smart.
Here are the holes in the process of being cut. I didn't precut the fabric and foam on the other side and the RotoZip bit didn't have any big issues (some fabric threads wound around part of the bit). For the next one (the right door panel), I will think about cutting the fabric on the bass speaker hole - but not the tweeter hole. Too difficult to locate the hole without drilling a bunch of pilot holes.
The final step for me was a bit of fabric trimming around the holes and then transferring all the UrS4 avant door panel goodies to the newly perforated 94 100 door panel. Note the plastic clips that are used to clamp the bass speaker to the door panel. Clever design.
Here is the end product. As noted, I still have to seal the foam block to the door and add some aluminum duct tape to the top of the block - like the way I found it on the UrS4 avant door card.
Hope this helps somebody somewhere sometime. This could be used as a guide for installing non-OE speakers in a rear door card as well.
So here was the starting point yesterday afternoon. As you can see the obvious tasks are removing the speakers and foam block from the UrS4 rear door panel, removing the foam block from the 94 100 panel and cutting the appropriate holes. It is really that easy and doesn't really need a DIY. But you know me, can't let any task remain undocumented, however trivial it might seem.
Here is the UrS4 rear door panel showing some of the details:
Here are the details on the tweeter:
Here are the bass speaker details (don't know why I can't say "woofer" (?!)). (NOTE: The metal clips that seem to hold the foam to the door. Easily removed with pliers - foam is glued to the door card so more work is needed to remove them):
Okay, first step is removing the foam "impact padding" blocks (must be something to do with side-impact intrusion prevention (??)). Remove those circular metal clips (pull up while twisting a bit) and then using a putty knife and/or flexible steak knife (don't tell my wife - it wasn't one of the good ones - and it was not harmed in any way)
Here is the UrS4 door card with the foam block removed It was relatively easy, including removing that wierd aluminum sticky tape:
Next up, removal of the foam impact padding block from the C4 100 panel. This was a beotch and was the biggest time consumer on this very easy procedure. I started with a 1" putty knife and, even knowing where the glue might be, it wasn't enough. Had to bring out the aforementioned steak knife to poke between the hard plastic and the foam (I tried very hard not to damage the foam in this process). Eventually, I could pry the block away from the panel enough to actually see the glue holding the foam to the panel. Then I just sawed away with the serated edge of the steak knife to slowly slowly get throught the glue (must be a Urethane glue like "Gorilla Glue"(tm)). Nasty stuff. Eventually, the foam block came off.
As you might see, I wasn't completely successful with not leaving and foam behind (there was some). Plus the residual glue was awful. I decided to remove it. At first I tried GOOF-OFF(tm). Must be high in Toluene because although it did soften the glue and residual foam, it also started to eat the plastic of the door card. Okay. Stop that. Switched to good old solvent. Worked slower but it didn't eat the plastic.
Here is that door panel, now free of residual glue and foam, showing how the factory pre-marked the panel for the location of the factory tweeter and bass speakers (NOTE: the "Gotcha")
The next step was to cut-out the holes for the UrS4 Avant speakers in the the C4 100 door card, following the pre-marked outlines. I saw a DIY somewhere where the prepetrator used a drill to drill a million holes along the inside the edge of the pre-marked guide and then a knife and/or file to finalize the hole cutting. I say "Fk that". Dremel with RotoZip bit. Piece of cake. Drill appropriate pilot holes and then use the RotoZip/Dremel. My "Gotcha" was I didn't think the pilot hole drilling enough for the bottom-most post on the bass speaker hole. I knicked the edge of the door panel storage cubby. Fixable (a bit of superglue) but easily preventable if you think more before doing (Duh). Live and learn. Too soon old, too late smart.
Here are the holes in the process of being cut. I didn't precut the fabric and foam on the other side and the RotoZip bit didn't have any big issues (some fabric threads wound around part of the bit). For the next one (the right door panel), I will think about cutting the fabric on the bass speaker hole - but not the tweeter hole. Too difficult to locate the hole without drilling a bunch of pilot holes.
The final step for me was a bit of fabric trimming around the holes and then transferring all the UrS4 avant door panel goodies to the newly perforated 94 100 door panel. Note the plastic clips that are used to clamp the bass speaker to the door panel. Clever design.
Here is the end product. As noted, I still have to seal the foam block to the door and add some aluminum duct tape to the top of the block - like the way I found it on the UrS4 avant door card.
Hope this helps somebody somewhere sometime. This could be used as a guide for installing non-OE speakers in a rear door card as well.
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